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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:35 PM
  #1996  
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From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
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Originally Posted by cherokee_ftw_5
no one liked my orange tierod??
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:36 PM
  #1997  
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From: fayetteville nc
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: ho 4.0
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Originally Posted by cherokee_ftw_5
no one liked my orange tierod??
it looks good i want to do the rusty's xover stering on mine
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:38 PM
  #1998  
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From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
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Originally Posted by monster xj
it looks good i want to do the rusty's xover stering on mine
Check this wild **** out
Attached Thumbnails Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_123833.jpg  
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:41 PM
  #1999  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by cherokee_ftw_5
no one liked my orange tierod??
Looks real good. I'll be doing that soon (gotta get my tie rod replaced so I can get it aligned before I throw on new rubber)
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #2000  
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From: Partlow, va
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
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What's the different and how do I do it
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:45 PM
  #2001  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by 94cherokeeman
What's the different and how do I do it
Tie rods from ZJs with V8 engines are thicker and (I think) solid metal. Ours are a thin piece of tube. It's a bolt-on, though. Just pull a ZJ V8 tie rod (and drag link if you want) from a junkyard, or order a new one from a parts store. Then take yours off and put the new one in its place.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:45 PM
  #2002  
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From: West Fargo, ND
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l renix
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Yeah, It weighs twice as much as the stock one. I've been meaning to do it for a while. I need to replace my axle shaft u joints bad, When I reverse, when I hit the brake, I hear loud knocking, like a seizing almost. also, when I begin in drive a little, or when I park and let of the brake. It's between that and the bad bearing on the front output shaft of my tcase. not quite sure yet. I don't think wheel bearing because it's actually fairly quiet. (what XJ is actually quiet??) and It clicks more when 4wd is engaged.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #2003  
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From: West Fargo, ND
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l renix
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It's pretty basic. lol. Don't hit the ball joints out by the thread though, I made that mistake and had to get a dye and all that jazz. Just loosen the castle nut up until there's a small gap, and smack the castle nut.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #2004  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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fuzzy absorbers in the cup holders home made CAI and heat shield, PA speaker, accessory box to battery, cubby hole net. And yeah, the stuff in the cupholders is extra fluffy
Attached Thumbnails Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_171350.jpg   Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_171401.jpg   Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_171418.jpg   Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_171433.jpg   Homebrew Jeep Mods-forumrunner_20111010_171454.jpg  


Last edited by xj_maniac_newb; Oct 10, 2011 at 04:20 PM.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #2005  
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From: Partlow, va
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
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Cool thanks looks like im going to pic-a-part tomorrow
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #2006  
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Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by cherokee_ftw_5
It's pretty basic. lol. Don't hit the ball joints out by the thread though, I made that mistake and had to get a dye and all that jazz. Just loosen the castle nut up until there's a small gap, and smack the castle nut.
I usually *smack* the side of the knuckle that the tie rod end goes thru with a BFH, It *shocks* the tre loose and no chance of damage to the threads.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #2007  
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From: West Fargo, ND
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l renix
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the one i got was super stuck. that's why i had a problem. And my stock tie rod too. I beat the **** out of it to get it out. lol
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #2008  
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Tie rods from ZJs with V8 engines are thicker and (I think) solid metal. Ours are a thin piece of tube. It's a bolt-on, though. Just pull a ZJ V8 tie rod (and drag link if you want) from a junkyard, or order a new one from a parts store. Then take yours off and put the new one in its place.
Don't use the zj drag link. The angle of the steering dampner is different and when you install it, it will twist the tie rod and cause some binding at slow speed turning.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #2009  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by mdcmn7
Don't use the zj drag link. The angle of the steering dampner is different and when you install it, it will twist the tie rod and cause some binding at slow speed turning.
I read in a few places that the drag links are the same. I don't know first hand.
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #2010  
99 Purple XJ's Avatar
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Correct the drag links are the same i have one on my XJ and it doesnt bind or anything as mentioned above



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