is there any way that i can mount them that will look decent maybe without welding?

 

http://www.comp4x4.com/Weld-Thru-Cle...ts-D-Ring.html

Here's some stronger ones that use cut a hole for it to fit in and weld on the inside and the outside


Or if you want to bolt one on the bottom at autozone they sell bolt on tow hooks

 

Here's the ones I built for mine.

 

still have a little bit to go on it but... here it is so far.

 

Nice.
How did you round the bottom edge?

 

Id asume the metal was just bent to create the curve in it

 

Uh...yeah...

I was asking how he bent the curve.

 

You could bolt them on with some hardend bolts.. Bolt them on there sides on the bottom, or somewere.. Put a piece of pipe or washers as a spacer, or bolt them flat. Im and innovator, and like to use what I get my hands on as well.
But.. The problem with hooks like this, is usually the straps, chain, rope w.e you use to get pulled out will fall/slide off sometimes, when the rig pulling you has to pull up again, or you move your rig,etc. And youll be playing rabbit jumping out of the cab every time to hook it back on.

Unless you get the legit' tow hooks, that have a retainer/spring gate to keep that from happening.
like these.-
or If you have/use D-rings, I like something like this-



Also, I wouldn't use that exact hook you showed. As mentioned before it looks galvanived. You want steel. Unless you know that it has a good hi' breaking strength.
Ive seen lots of "home depot" hardware snap and take out a headlight etc. or bounce of someones head.
When you got another rig that has to really give you a hard fast pull, That stuff turns into glass, and lethal projectiles.

Your best bet, Is D-shackles, and well welded tabs or strong hardend bolts.. if you cant or don't have a good welder. go with the recovery hooks that use atleast 2x hardend larger bolts.
Like the factory TJ's or the black ones in the picture..
Honestly I trust hardened bolts before most welds. Unless its welded by a big company, pro, or you know what your doing and have a good welder to really penetrate and cause that chemical bond,
Bolt your recovery stuff on.

Ive seen guys who weld there tabs on in there garage with a small stick welder,or a gassless mig/flux welder. Even though they welded them right.They look fantastic, strong..
They get stuck, after a couple hard pulls there wraping the strap around the hole bumper, and replacing a guys headlight or window.. Cuz the whole tab usualy broke off.
But it goes the same direction with bolt on stuff as well.
Depending what it is, I bolt stuff on if it can be, and also put a bead of weld around it.
But these are just my opions and from what I have seen, experienced.


Up front I put my stock bumper back on and sold my winch,& bumper.. But I put the recovery hooks like the first picture with the frame brackets up front, with all hardened bolts.
Out back I have a homade rear bumper w/ tire swing, and a 2" receiver with the d-shackle receiver adapter and a big D-shackle.

When it comes to recovery/hardware, you pay for what you get.

 

They look awesome..
I love the rear bumper. I built one with a swing away, and I did the quarter panel tuck. I wanna get some steel along/under the rear corners like you did.
Did you just weld them side pieces to the bumper? Or are they tied in to the frame behind the tires?

 

A bandsaw with the miter gauge, A metal chop saw that angles horizontal and/or vertical.

Or, do what the carpenters do and just use a framing square, some chalk. Mark were you want cut all the way around the piece, and a saw-zall with metal blade and follow your line.. Then take a angle grinder and clean it up.
You can use and angle grinder as well, but youll eat thru cutting disc's with larger/thicker material. and you gotta be carful with it pinching, all the sparks, or it jumping out.

You can use a set of torches, or plasma cutter if you have acces. The plasma cutter cuts a pretty clean edge, I take a piece of scrap and use it as a strait edge for the plasma cutter nozzle. And regular torches ill cut it, but they even with the straitest line require grinding and cleaning up after you make a cut.

I took a delta 10" chop saw I got from LOWES for 90$ to do wood projects. molding, trim, etc. around my house.. I went to lowes and got a metal cutting blade, 10" put it on the regular wood chop saw.
Its ok for cutting thinner or smaller material, but the big stuff you gotta go slow because the motor isn't as powerful as a regular metal-chop saw. And it takes a while to cut through bigger thicker stuff.
Also the guards and metals a regular chop saw is made out of weren't made for the heat or sparks that fly' off the material.
As it is a cheap quick way if you only have to cut a couple precise angles...
I wouldn't advise this

 

I have a press brake at work. (and a welder) the center part is 36" and has a 90* bend on top, the bottom bend is a 45. the ends I just matched up best I could trying to keep it symmetrical, it tapers from 4" on the flat to 2" at the outter end.

My neighbor bought a rollover XJ for the motor & let me cut out the front unibody section where the bumper mounts. This makes for very easy set up / fitment.

 

They are welded to the original bumper body and then reinforced with 1" square tubbing back the the bumper to help prevent bending/breaking if I take a rock underneath. Here's a pic so you can kinda understand what I'm saying

 

$40 including lights. Went to the junkyard and found a YJ wrangler rear bumper that looked like it might work. Picked it up for $20 and then added brackets to mount it and welded on a stinger and the fogs. Simple, cheap, and strong.

 

Nice find dude

 

Being 17 I'm happy how mine turned out