D60 14bolt 3link front
#1
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
D60 14bolt 3link front
i told yall i would do a tread on this. here it is.
rear axle
the spring perch is now capped off
had to change up the lower mount some
axle tubes fully welded to diff
rear axle
the spring perch is now capped off
had to change up the lower mount some
axle tubes fully welded to diff
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
this thread was posted fast so i left alot out i know so ask ? if you have them
the first drive to break in the gears. went well other then the front brake calipers wantin to stick
the first drive to break in the gears. went well other then the front brake calipers wantin to stick
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 93 4.0HO
Nice work,looks good and solid,i like how u sunk you tank through the floor also.My tank is in the same spot,just not sunk in.I might just have to sink mine.
Did you notice any power loss turning the bigger axles?
What gears r in the new axles?
And did you have to get new drive shafts or alter stock or doner shafts?
Did you notice any power loss turning the bigger axles?
What gears r in the new axles?
And did you have to get new drive shafts or alter stock or doner shafts?
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i am now running 5.13s i havnt got it out on the trail yet but what i have drove it i like the power with the new gears.
rear shaft needed to be longer and the stock front shaft had to be shorter cause of the bigger size of the 60. works out nice when you have buddies that build drive shafts
front
rear
rear shaft needed to be longer and the stock front shaft had to be shorter cause of the bigger size of the 60. works out nice when you have buddies that build drive shafts
front
rear
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
welded front and rear. i was goin to do hydro assist but im thinkin full hydro now. its not that bad to turn tho. my 30 was also welded and i got by just fine.
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
LIke some of the stuff you have done.. but some of it is down right scary. Just my opinion. You need to put some kind of straps, or something more substantial then angle iron and a few bolts to hold your gas tank in place.
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Year: 94
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yea understand where your coming from on that. im not to worried bout it tho. i do plan to build more off them pieces and more less make a box around it that has a spot to put stuff on top of it.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Air Intake and TB Spacer
I've got a few questions:
1. When welding to the cast, did you do a pre-heat method or use nickle rod?
2. Are your concerned about only have 3 bolts on each side of the crossmemeber?
3. Did you keep the stock t-case? (231?)
4. Did you do an sye and double cardan shaft for the rear?
5. Did you mount the rear shocks through the floor?
6. Did you have to change the exaust routing for the upper on the 3-link?
7. Any tie rod roll or dead spot in the steering?
1. When welding to the cast, did you do a pre-heat method or use nickle rod?
2. Are your concerned about only have 3 bolts on each side of the crossmemeber?
3. Did you keep the stock t-case? (231?)
4. Did you do an sye and double cardan shaft for the rear?
5. Did you mount the rear shocks through the floor?
6. Did you have to change the exaust routing for the upper on the 3-link?
7. Any tie rod roll or dead spot in the steering?
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've got a few questions:
1. When welding to the cast, did you do a pre-heat method or use nickle rod?
2. Are your concerned about only have 3 bolts on each side of the crossmemeber?
3. Did you keep the stock t-case? (231?)
4. Did you do an sye and double cardan shaft for the rear?
5. Did you mount the rear shocks through the floor?
6. Did you have to change the exaust routing for the upper on the 3-link?
7. Any tie rod roll or dead spot in the steering?
1. When welding to the cast, did you do a pre-heat method or use nickle rod?
2. Are your concerned about only have 3 bolts on each side of the crossmemeber?
3. Did you keep the stock t-case? (231?)
4. Did you do an sye and double cardan shaft for the rear?
5. Did you mount the rear shocks through the floor?
6. Did you have to change the exaust routing for the upper on the 3-link?
7. Any tie rod roll or dead spot in the steering?
2. i ran the 3 bolts alone for year or 2 with 34s and D30 8.25. they are bolted and now welded to the frame stiffeners.
3. yes i am still running the 231 case for now.
4. i have a AA SYE with a CV style drive shaft
5. the rear shocks are mounted in stock location using stock length with the mounting point on the axle at the top of the axle tube. that was a test run with part store cheapy and it works good.
6. no change to exhaust as of now. if and when i have to pull the bolt out of the upper link at the x-member ill have to cut the pipe to remove the bolt as it will hit the pipe the way it is now.
7. so far the steering is doing really well. i will be doin hydro assist or full hydro this year.
if i missed something or didnt answer a ? right ask again.
i need to add some more pics of the finished 3link mount at the frame and how the exhaust fits with it. its all stuff i skipped over on the post and now the rockwell buggy has all my time in the shop
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2001 4.0L
i ran into the same prob on my pass side upper.....i have to make the 6 inch section of the exhaust, near the upper frame mount, removable so i can get the bolt in and out.
nice work.....i would clean all your metal a little better before welding. you will get pits in your welds if you dont. you may not be able to see them, but they are there. best to get all impuritys out of your welds. im sure you know this, but doesnt seem like you are practicing it.
looks like your jeep is gonna work quite well....
one question...how far into your upper does that sleeve go? doesnt look like you rossett welded that, but you did on your track bar?....guess thats two questions
nice work.....i would clean all your metal a little better before welding. you will get pits in your welds if you dont. you may not be able to see them, but they are there. best to get all impuritys out of your welds. im sure you know this, but doesnt seem like you are practicing it.
looks like your jeep is gonna work quite well....
one question...how far into your upper does that sleeve go? doesnt look like you rossett welded that, but you did on your track bar?....guess thats two questions
Last edited by MallCrawlXJ; 03-29-2011 at 07:09 AM.
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
it runs all the way on both ends. was hard to get it to fit. very tight. bad thread on my part cause i didnt put pics of everything i did. i ended up finishing that upper link by running 2 pieces of angle down each side of it. the only reason i hack fab the upper link like that is i had all that stuff there to make it. im sure you could tell the ends was my old uppers?
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