ZJ = Making me VERY frustrated! HELP NEEDED!!!!
Well, I've been dealing with a Demon of a Jeep and I'm on the Jeepforum, with lots of help, but for some reason I can't figure this Jeep out...
It's a 1995 CG w/4.0 4x2. I've replaced the CPS, cleaned ALL the grounds (made them shiny), Removed the VTSS module from behind the glove box (yes it ran for week with it off), jumped the drivers door alarm wire, new plugs/wires/cap & rotor, replaced the IGN coil, had the ECU & CAPS repaired, timed it to the "T", etc ...
What it's doing is it stalls about 10-45 minutes into it running even when idling, it usually won't start till it cools down, and LATELY it won't even stay running and stalls right away...
I'm thinking there's a dead short somewhere in the Jeep harness, like maybe the Gremlins love the wiring harness taste.
Maybe when I do get it running, i'll shake the wires all over and see if it dies, if it does, then the short is in that general area.
ANY help would be great!!! As this Jeep has made me loose sleep trying to figure it out.
It's a 1995 CG w/4.0 4x2. I've replaced the CPS, cleaned ALL the grounds (made them shiny), Removed the VTSS module from behind the glove box (yes it ran for week with it off), jumped the drivers door alarm wire, new plugs/wires/cap & rotor, replaced the IGN coil, had the ECU & CAPS repaired, timed it to the "T", etc ...
What it's doing is it stalls about 10-45 minutes into it running even when idling, it usually won't start till it cools down, and LATELY it won't even stay running and stalls right away...
I'm thinking there's a dead short somewhere in the Jeep harness, like maybe the Gremlins love the wiring harness taste.
Maybe when I do get it running, i'll shake the wires all over and see if it dies, if it does, then the short is in that general area.
ANY help would be great!!! As this Jeep has made me loose sleep trying to figure it out.
Last edited by XJBrent; Jan 13, 2016 at 08:52 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The cam sensor (pickup coil) will fail when it gets hot and won't restart until it cools down. Have you replaced that?
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I've also replaced the cam sensor, pick up coil, distributor, all wires, cap, plugs, etc. I also replaced the O2 sensor, had a new exhaust manifold put in (was cracked like all 4.0's)... Something else is up... I was told by another mechanic again it MIGHT be the engine harness that has a short somewhere.....
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 319
Likes: 3
From: Key Peninsula, WA
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Easy check. When it dies shoot some starting fluid in the intake a try starting it. If it fires off and runs for a moment then it is the fuel pump. If it won't even try to run then its the can sensor or some other ignition related issue.
Doing some more research, I think some people have had issues with the Ignition piece in the steering column. I guess sometimes the contacts get worn or don't make contact and then it seems like the key is in the "off" position.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Apparently you are satisfied with the fuel pressure?
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
running also around 50. should hold pressure after shut off not go less than 25 lbs after a certain number of minutes which i forget ..
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 741
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Well, there you go. If it fires or starts with fuel of some sort in the intake, you've got spark and the problem is fuel. If it doesn't fire, you've got no spark. If the ASD relay isn't energized, you get neither.
The way this works is when you turn on the key, the PCM energizes the fuel pump to charge the fuel rail. When you start cranking, the crank sensor (CPS) tells the PCM that the crankshaft is actually turning. Then the PCM energizes the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay. The ASD turns on the ignition and the fuel injector circuits. The reason for so many relays is the PCM operates on 5 volts and everything it controls is on 12 volt circuits. Oh...wait! I think the injectors are 5 volt, but I'm not sure.
Even though you changed the CPS, the wiring may not be good. It's only supplied with 5 volts and connections must be perfect. It's possible the ASD relay is no good. That you can check by substituting a headlight relay.
The way this works is when you turn on the key, the PCM energizes the fuel pump to charge the fuel rail. When you start cranking, the crank sensor (CPS) tells the PCM that the crankshaft is actually turning. Then the PCM energizes the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay. The ASD turns on the ignition and the fuel injector circuits. The reason for so many relays is the PCM operates on 5 volts and everything it controls is on 12 volt circuits. Oh...wait! I think the injectors are 5 volt, but I'm not sure.
Even though you changed the CPS, the wiring may not be good. It's only supplied with 5 volts and connections must be perfect. It's possible the ASD relay is no good. That you can check by substituting a headlight relay.
Last edited by dave1123; Jan 15, 2016 at 08:54 AM.


