I get out of work late, so most of the repairs/mods I do to my vehicles are done at night. I wanted to get some info on adjusting the E-brake so that it works again. I will be changing the brake pads while I'm back there if they are too far gone, but kinda wanted to be able to visualize the actual E-brake adjustment procedures before going out there so it doesn't take me too late into the night. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

You posted in the Grand Cherokee section but you didn't post, and don't have in your profile, what year your Grand is or any other info about it which helps a lot. IMO
I'll see if I can get the info. I'm not at my comp. or home so it may take a while.
Dan

Sorry Blue, I'll set up my profile shortly. It's a 96 ZJ Laredo, selec-trac, 4.0L, Disc brakes all around, thanks.

I'm visiting family in Mich. now and using my brothers lap-top. I need to pick up a USB cable and scanner/printer before I can send scans of the manual. It may be tomorrow before I can PM you the scans. Maybe someone else will be able to help you before then. Otherwise you'll get the PM if still needed.
Dan

Not a problem, thanks Blue!!

You're welcome. I'm always trying to help a fellow Jeeper when I can.
Dan

the E-brake is adjusted just like a drum brake. (because it is) inside the rear rotors are drums. if you look on the bottom of the backing plate below the axle you'll see an oval rubber plug. remove it and use a brake spoon or flat tip screwdriver and tighten the slack adjuster.(make sure the parking brake is released) once it's tight enough they will work good. unless someone drive around with the brake on like the preveous owner of mine. then you'll need to replace them. if I'm driving and pull the parking brake it will lock up the rear wheels.

I haven't got the set-up going yet, but will send the mentioned info ASAP.
The E-brake is adjusted at the tensioner bracket/tensioner rod on the cable, on the rod from the equalizer. Too much to type and pics are needed.
Dan

A big thanks to both of you!!! Now, on the slack adjusters, do I just go at them until they no longer rotate? I had to remove the original tensioner bracket cause the bolt was completely seized up. I got one at the JY today and just put in on, took off the slack and tightened it a little more. Again thank you both!!!

It's hard to explain without pics.
Block front tires, raise rear of vehicle & place on jack-stands. Verify rear discs rotate freely.
Fully apply E-brake lever.
Mark tensioner rod 1/4 inch from tensioner bracket.
Tighten adjusting nut at equalizer until the mark on the tensioner rod moves into alignment with the tensioner bracket. *Do not loosen or tighten nut until adjustment is finished.
Release E-brake lever and verify the rear wheels rotate freely.
Remove jack-stands and lower vehicle.
Test operation of E-brake on an incline.
If finished, enjoy cold beverage.
Pics would've been helpful.
Dan

Hmmm..... no workie. I did all the adjustments, the pads are about 50% and all the cables are connected and working accordingly, what gives? How far can I go on the adjusting bolt? Can I go all the way on that?

The directions I gave were from the manual and should be followed as written. Maybe the nut can be tightened further. Like I stated earlier, the pics would help a lot. The only manual I have here is my brothers Haynes ZJ manual which covers it pretty well & has a couple of pics.
Are you sure you installed the replacement parts correctly? And they are for the correct year?
Dan

Yeah, it's the right part, I took the old one with me for comparison and my boy and me went with the parts guy, saw the donor car and all. Installation is all 1,2,3. I'll get under there and snap a few pics, thanks.

This is what I'm working on.

Also noticed this hose end dangling around at the rear, the other end seems to be connected to the unibody, driver's side right before the gas tank.