dave1123

I just replaced the heater blower motor and resistor in my WJ and for me, it was a PITA! First, I have a bad back and knees. I found my picnic table benches are only 1 inch lower than the door edge so that was nice. When I tried to pull the resistor out, it had cracked and came out in pieces. A couple of the internal electrical strips were burnt and nasty, but the connector was fine. Then the fan I bought was a VDO made in China and only had a metal case. I tested the old fan for direction in low speed and I can see why it burnt up the resistor. It only just barely turned. Luckily the orange wire was the hot lead and the black was ground so the actual wiring was easy, except for laying on my back and trying to focus thru my glasses. I had to pull the passenger's side kick panel for harness clearance to get the fan out and that wasn't simple. it extends under the door base strip with 4 screws. Why? You tell me.

Well, it's done. It's a little louder than the old one because it doesn't have the plastic housing, but who cares? It works. It's much better than howling on high all the time. Now to take a Percoset and lay down for a while.

Cherokee_Mike

Just had to replace the resistor module on my 2000 WJ for the 3rd time in 3 years ! Usual problem, melted connector due to poor contact.
I managed to remove the fan unit OK without removing the kick panel - you just have to turn it around a bit to get it to clear the harness connector.
Checked the fan for debris - all clear - and the fan turned OK by spinning it manually so just re-installed.
I fitted the upgraded resistor module but had to swap the connectors round on one end of the power cable which connects to the fan motor as it ran backwards - read about this on another site.
The connectors on the upgraded module are much heavier duty than the originals and the heatsink is much larger - so far, so good - hope this one lasts a bit longer !

dave1123

All the research I've done tells me if you keep burning resistors, check the fan for amperage draw. I didn't bother to do that because it was squeaking on low when it got cold, I just assumed it was the bearings.

The reason I had to remove the kick panel is because someone wrapped the antenna lead around the outside of the cable bundle and I just couldn't get it to tuck back far enough. It was also wrapped with a thin foam layer for signal protection, I assume. Another thing I did wrong was to try removing the glove box first because that's what I had to do on my ZJ. That got me nothing in the way of access. That was because of arrogance, I thought I knew what I was doing without researching it first.

This morning I had a bruise on my left arm from the door pillar because I was pressing against it without the panel on it. What can I tell you? I'm old and decrepit and out of shape. I can remember times of working under the dash with my shoulders on the floor and my butt on the seat! I was a lot younger then.

Then it's the simple things. Memory. I needed a thin small screwdriver to unlock the connectors and I couldn't remember where I put it. Oh! It's in my electrical parts box! Duh!

I just wanted to share my experience with the guys that may have to do it themselves.