bearings , i have the jeep in neutral but i cant get the drive shaft to turn so i can get to the bolt holding the pin in.

 

The axle shafts are still in, right? Turn one of those

 

t/case in neutral? Oh, wait! 249 right?

 

yes 249 , and yes the 4wheel is in N , guess i have to drop the drive shaft off

 

Or lift a front wheel. In the 249, both axles are connected thru the viscous clutch and chain.

 

makes sense didnt know that , damn 249 i hate you. just got the bolts out of the drive shaft this is turning into a project, on the plus side my gears show no signs of wear. thanx everyone for your info

 

well , that was a task , someone put some rtf on the old seal made it a ***** to get out, not to mention the slide hammer i borrowed was pretty shady , but i got the old out and new in, one side . then a rain storm hit .... so i closed up the diff and gathered the tools ... thnx so much for the info

btw 1/4 12pt wrench fit it, the 5/16 started to strip it, incase anyone is lookin for the size

and just to make things a bit easier , is there any trick to getting the seal out , the seal puller i bought from harbor Freight was would rip thru it , end up beating the crap out of the seal puller to bend the seal up, to pull out .. i still have the other side to do , but doesnt look like the rain is letting up ,

 

Okay, I've seen a big screwdriver used as a prybar to start one side, then the other to get it out. That's a typical "barnyard mechanic" trick, but it works. Just be sure to not mark up the bore or your new seal will leak.

 

Not that this^ gent needs backing up with all his experience but just chiming in since so many have helped me on CF. I am a novice and thought the prying method was best until I saw that the OE seal (on 8.25 axle) has a lip that sits flush with the outside diameter of the bore. Once I realized this, I carefully used a screw driver and hammer and *gently* (as not to mar the axle) tapped around the seal and got it out. Maybe your D35 is the same.

Don't know if your seals were changed already but this method won't work if I have to replace the seals I installed. They don't have a lip that sits flush with the outside of the axle.

 

If my explanation wasn't good, here's a crude drawing:

 

Hey, any little bit helps! I am, by no means, a "know it all." If you've got anything to add, go for it, please! I've worked on automobiles for 56 years, but I'll never say I know everything there is to know. I've seen some smart tricks and a lot of dumb things. I'm still learning the electronic stuff.

To quote Thomas Edison; "I have not failed! I've just found 10,000 things that DON'T work!"

 

Haha I like it!

 

thanks guys , yes it has the lip on it , thats actually how i got the one side out , was pryed that lip up from a few different corners , i saw on you tube they used a claw hammer to just yank it out does that only work on replacement seals. This rain suxs , its been raining since i got the drivers side done , its my DD so im kind of stranded. dont want to skip doin the passenger side. i saw u can rent a bearing puller from auto zone to use on a slide hammer, the slide hammer im using has the claws and that was a pia to pull those bearings out. is it worth renting the bearing puller , will it make the job any easier.

 

It's very worth renting. It took me awhile and did my own research to get the right connector on the hammer, went back and forth to the store about four times (Auto Zone lackies) but it was well worth it. Bearing out in less than six slams. Using any other method risks scoring the axle tube.

 

Well i have another question im doing the other side and i can not get the C clip to come off the axle , i have the axle pushed all the way in and it wont slide off , it will spin on it but its like its hitting the spider gear a bit. i even had a buddy come over to push in on it and still it wont fall off.