My Transmission is getting ready to die. It's a 42RE, and I'm in the hunt for another one. The question that I have. Without changing out the entire engine, is there a "better" automatic tranny that I could drop right in there.

If you have a recommendation, Please explain to me Why.

Engine is a I6 4.0L with 295K on it.

 

Unfortunatly, no. You could probably get a tranny guru to beef it up, but you're basically stuck with the 42RE because it's electronically shifted and controlled by the rest of the system. the PCM monitors it and controls shift points, OD, and torque convertor clutch engagement. 1 and 2 are mechanically shifted while 3 and 4 (OD) are electronic. The 44RE and 45RFE won't bolt up to the 4.0. I don't think the AW-4 will either.

That 4.0 is tired at 295K and you should be thinking about a rebuild on it as well. Maybe you could do a 3-swap, ie engine,trans,t-case all at once. That is providing the body is worth saving.

 

if you were going to take the time and spend the money to swap something else in, than that transmission can easily be made to be extremely reliable.
They have some very common issues that are very easy to remedy.
Any experience chrysler trans builder can overhaul it to last.

 

I was talking to a well known and respected local transmission shop who told me when they rebuild a 42RE they bore out the valve body, insert stainless steel sleeves and hard aluminum spools. He said I could expect 100k on his rebuild. Is he telling the truth or is he blowing smoke? This job would cost me $3000 including a new converter and solenoids.

 

Holy hell. I wouldn't pay that much. I have had them go well beyond 100k for like 1200$

 

So your saying that whole valve body thing is BS?

Sorry, I'm trying to keep up with two post in hot mode. Everybody on line!

 

No, the valve bodies do wear, but not always, not most of the time actually. One of the issues with these units is the fact that they dont pump fluid in park, so when you start it, there is no fluid flow and the converter is dry. Especially if it sits more than a day and the converter drains. Then the converter starts to eat its self and contaminates the unit with metal. A lot of the time it will get into the governor sensor or solenoid and cause them to fail which in turn causes more damage. (although they go on their own as well)
So there is an updated manual valve that will allow fluid flow to the converter in part, and what they call lube regulated pressure regulator valve. This bypasses fluid through its body so the rest of the unit gets fluid.
These 2 things are the biggest things you can do for reliability once the rest of the unit is freshened up.

 

You know, it's good to know I was right! When it's cold, I always shift to neutral to let it warm up, thus circulating fluid thru the "cooler" (warmer in this case). If you just drop it into gear as soon as it fires, like most people do, it hesitates to engage. I never do this. I've also been told not to stop a rearward roll with drive. It puts too much of a strain on the forward clutch. This I also don't do. This must be why I seldom have problems with the cars I drive. I think I will start shifting to neutral after starting every time. It can't hurt! I also have a remote starter which I don't use.

Most of my experience is with GMs THM 350. With those, you can hear the pump whining in park. We've done some drag racing with those and they are pretty bullet proof, as long as you don't go with a high throttle neutral start!

Of course, I still like a Muncie 4-speed! They don't call it "the rock crusher" for nothing!

 

GOOD! Thats exactly what you should be doing. I do the same with anything I drive with a chrysler trans.

 

Danny, I just when to your build thread. That's a beautiful machine you've got there! Really nice!

 

Thanks!

 

i work with a guy that has an 07 2500 with the 48re. there is some mod he did to it to make it pump in park. maybe thats something that could be done on the 42??

 

That would be the same thing I am talking about. The manual valve is what will allow the converter to charge in park. The valve bodies area ll pretty much the same too. As a matter of fact I had a 46re valve body in my 47re because it was on the shelf