Hey All...Don't post much, but last nite came home around 11pm and the temp gauge was at 210* and smoke was pouring out under the hood. I did see a small pool of coolant in the t-stat housing and it was wet inside the fan area. The coolant overflow went from full to add in like 10 days so its going in tomorrow.

The water pump was changed in 2010, original hoses, 2nd t-stat, coolant flush about 2 years ago. Bought it in new, so I will report back with the damage. 91K

Anybody had similar issues was it the radiator or just a hose, etc

Thanks

 

Obviously, you have a coolant leak and it could be anything. The engine is supposed to run at 210* because that's what the thermostat setting is supposed to be. I had the same problem with my '00 WJ and all it was was a pinhole leak in a heater hose which sprayed coolant all over the engine compartment. As long as the temp didn't exceed 250*, no damage was done. When I had this leak, it looked like a steam locomotive from under the hood.

I've been chasing a slow coolant loss for over 2 years. It seemed to just disappear from the reservoir over the period of a month with no obvious leaks anywhere. Then it got worse and the tailpipe would steam with water dripping out of it. There was no coolant in the oil, but I had the infamous cracked 0331 head. Between '99 and '01, these heads had a weak spot in the casting that caused it to crack between the #3 and #4 cylinders. Chrysler never recognized there was a problem, but recast them for '02 and beyond. your '04 shouldn't have this problem, but I wanted to make you aware of it. I replaced mine with a heavy duty recast Clearwater cylinder head for a total cost of $1375 parts and labor. I had a new set of lifters put in while it was apart. No more ticking. It's got 170K miles on it.

Until you find the leak, you'll just have to assume it could be anything from a simple split hose to a bad radiator. You can find it with a simple pressure test when the engine is cold.

 

Well, the $30 I spent at the shop to diagnose the issue came up with nothing. They claimed to have pressure tested it and drove it around town and highway and nothing happened. They checked all fluids, but failed to top off the coolant from add to full. The recommendation was to start with the thermostat and go from there.

What is stock like 195* or is 180* better?

 

No, the system is designed to run at 210* for emission purposes. The PCM's fuel trim is programed for that operating temp. The pressure is controlled by the radiator cap. How old is that?

 

Good call on the radiator cap! It may have been replaced 1x in 10+ years. I am going to check the numbers on the cap and go get a new one. Funny how the place that checked it didn't mention changing the cap??

I noticed on my Taurus after driving for an hour was able to remove the cap and wasn't hot at all no pressure was building either. It was a factory cap (probably original) that just kept turning and turning. Replaced it with a Stant and it seems like the cooling system is working like it should. All because of a radiator cap.

 

That's really funny because those testers that pump up come with a sleeve that tests the cap as well. You just pump it up 'till the cap starts leaking and read the gauge. Simple.

 

Update on this issue...Searched YouTube and found Bars Leaks Liquid Aluminum at Walmart for less than $7 with a money back guarantee. Added all 16oz. to the overflow and topped off with 50/50. I didn't replace the radiator cap or T-stat. So far so good. Level hasn't dropped since and no steam pouring out from under the hood.

 

You didn't fix anything, you just did more harm than good.

 

Maybe that stop leak made the leak worse, idk. Anyway, the leak got worse and it was the radiator. So the shop ordered a new one with a lifetime warranty. Radiator, labor, coolant, cap and tax. Out the door $488. Ouch!!