Muddz

Hello,

I'm installing a new all aluminum radiator that's a bit wider than the OE. The OE core is ~1.5 inch thickness and the all alum. radiator core is 2.2 inch thick.

It appears the new radiator will fit and not hit on the fan, and will be a little closer to the radiator core than was the Mopar OE radiator.

The entire all aluminum radiator is thicker at the core and tanks.

So while trying to drop it in the bottom opening for the hose is hitting on the steering box. The only method I've been able to figure out to install, is to remove the AC condenser.

My plastic quick disconnect kit has been misplaced so I need to stop at Napa to get a single quick disconnect removal tool.

What size quick disconnect tool is used for the AC lines in a 95 Grand Cherokee ZJ 4.0L?

Are there any o-rings that should be replaced?

Also what's the best way to recharge? Currently the A/C is working but once the condenser is remove I'll need to recharge to have A/C working again.

Just one of those pressurized A/C refill canisters will suffice?

95 ZJ 4.0L unlimited

wingless

When I did mine, there were two of the four sizes in the kit that were required. Get the kit.

Properly discharge the system, if the system must be opened. Follow all safety procedures for proper handling of R-134a.

The system should be evacuated once reassembled using a vacuum pump to purge the air and water vapor. The vacuum pump also permit ensuring the system is leak-free, prior to replacing the refrigerant.

Follow the FSM for freon replacement. When I did mine I measured the temperature of the evaporator lines and ambient temperature, using the table to ensure the proper amount was added. I recall about 3 cans were required.


It should be possible to flop it to the passenger side and NOT disassemble the A/C system.

Muddz

I have a plastic kit somewhere but wasn't able to find it. So went over to Napa and purchased an Evercraft 776-9082 that work with 3/4", 5/8", 1/2" and 3/8" locking mechanisms.

The only thing I want to do is temporarily remove the A/C condenser to be able to install the radiator that's thicker than the OEM. Hit's on the steering gear box while trying to install. Moving the a/c condenser there should be enough room to slide in the radiator.

I don't don't have any sort of vacuum pump as well as no A/C gauges. I'd probably need to purchase some sort of vacuum hand pump off eBay. I see them at different prices starting at around ~$16.00

How did you measure the temperature of the evaporator lines and ambient temperature? Laser thermometer?

I'm uncertain what you mean by "It should be possible to flop it to the passenger side and NOT disassemble the A/C system"

00t444e

You need an electric vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system before charging it, and ideally you should leak check it with nitrogen before charging it. I doubt your going to go buy a nitrogen tank and regulator to do that, so you could just pull a vacuum for 30-45 minutes, wait an hour or so to make sure it's holding vacuum then charge it.

wingless

This reply shows my A/C evaporator replacement.

It shows the thermocouples taped at the 6 o'clock position of the evaporator, per the FSM, to measure the coolant temperature.

When I yanked my engine, I unbolted the compressor and unbolted the compressor, used the flexible rubber hoses and flopped those onto the passenger side fender so they would remain intact during the removal / replacement.

Once the reassembled system is connected to the vacuum pump a cloud of water vapor is initially created at the pump exhaust, while the interior moisture is removed from the system. My pump and gauges were also purchased off eBay.

Note that Freon should not be discharged to the atmosphere. It is supposed to be recycled.

Note that Freon is a chemical that should be handled properly, per the SDS, including gloves and eye protection, to avoid burns and injury.

Muddz

As an alternative solution to the problem, perhaps I can try unbolting the steering box and move it back far enough to fit the radiator. I'll need to take a closer look. It's most likely bolted to the sub-frame and connects to a pitman arm. If I can loosen it enough to pull back then the rad would be able t slide in.

Looking into A/C equipment it appears to evacuate and then add Freon will minimally require a set of gauges and a pump. (with appropriate hoses and fittings)

I live in the Northwest and don't really use or rely on A/C. Most of the vehicles I've owned if having A/C the A/C eventually stopped working and was never used.

The 95 ZJ A/C works but again I'm uncertain how much or if it will be actually used or needed. I tend to just open a window or use a vehicles interior vents.

I think in order to legally evacuate the a/c I will need minimally a set of gauges, a vacuum pump and recovery tank for the evacuated Freon?

I've read of people using Harbor Freight Gauges (~$50.00) and a vacuum pump (~$17.00)

A/C R134A Manifold Gauge Set https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r13...set-60806.html
Air Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html

I'm uncertain what the $17.00 vacuum pump actual is and how it operates, or if I would need their more expensive ~$95.00 vacuum pump? https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ump-61245.html

I'm uncertain how to recover the evacuated Freon into some sort of holding tank and how to dispose of it?

00t444e

Most people just let the refrigerant out when working on their own vehicle.

Muddz

The rain subsided for a while and I was able to go out and get another look at the situation.

I may be able to temporarily remove or move the trans cooler that's located in from of the condenser to free up some room to slip the radiator down into it's installation space.

See attached pics.