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pulling trans-95 ZJ 5.2, what needs to be disconnected?

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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #1  
dnuccio's Avatar
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From: Ahwatukee, Phoenix, AZ
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default pulling trans-95 ZJ 5.2, what needs to be disconnected?

On monday im going to work on pulling my trans because i need to replace leaking front pump seals. I will have access to a lift. What all is connected to the trans that needs to be disconnected to remove it from the vehicle? i just want to know all that is connected as far as sensors and whatever else so i dont rip any wires.

95 zj 5.2 46RH transmission
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:36 AM
  #2  
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From: Barney Georgia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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At the very least...your neutral safety switch and possibly trans output shaft speed sensor. If the t case is electro shift, then those associated connectors as well. Maybe trans temp sensor too?
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Drive shafts, cross member, transmission linkage, t-case linkage, unplug all of the connectors and unclip the harness from the brackets, starter, dipstick tube, front inspection covers, crank sensor, and maybe a few other things.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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From: Tenn. and Mich.
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Engine: 4.7L V8
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All the above, and the cooler lines of course, and be sure to unbolt the convertor from the flexplate before unbolting the flexplate from the crank. That way you don't forget it.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.

Last edited by ol"blue; Oct 19, 2012 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 04:52 AM
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From: Toulouse, France
Year: 1990 Diesel
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
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Originally Posted by ol"blue
All the above, and the cooler lines of course, and be sure to unbolt the convertor from the flexplate before unbolting the flexplate from the crank. That way you don't forget it.
Some people forget it and damage the pump trying to pull the trans with the convertor still attached to the flexplate.
On the V8 you should remove the distributor cap to prevent damaging it or the distributor as the engine tilts down upon removal of the trans. Ideally, you should put a support under the engine.
How exactly do you unbolt the TC from the flexplate with the transmission still in place??

Also, I think I need to remove the oil filter too because one bolt is located just in front of it! Is this normal?
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 12:26 PM
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Originally Posted by Cyriac
How exactly do you unbolt the TC from the flexplate with the transmission still in place?? Also, I think I need to remove the oil filter too because one bolt is located just in front of it! Is this normal?
Have you ever been under a vehicle before? Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing and you will have access to the four torque converter bolts, you will have to turn the engine over by HAND in order to get to all of the bolts.
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 05:56 PM
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
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How about the starter?
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 05:41 AM
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From: Toulouse, France
Year: 1990 Diesel
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Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Have you ever been under a vehicle before? Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing and you will have access to the four torque converter bolts, you will have to turn the engine over by HAND in order to get to all of the bolts.
Yes I have and I know about the inspection port, I was asking just to make sure there wasn't another way to do this other than turning the engine over..

While I'm at it, how do you safely turn the engine over? Do I need to put a wrench on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft?

Clarification, this is the first time I'm pulling the transmission off a Grand Cherokee, or an automatic transmission in general. Just asking...

Last edited by Cyriac; Apr 14, 2014 at 05:50 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:42 AM
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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You can put a wrench on the crank pulley or use a pry bar on the ring gear of the torque converter, or use a wrench on the torque converter bolts to spin the crank.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 04:11 AM
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From: Toulouse, France
Year: 1990 Diesel
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Engine: 2.1L Renault "J8S"
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
You can put a wrench on the crank pulley or use a pry bar on the ring gear of the torque converter, or use a wrench on the torque converter bolts to spin the crank.
Thanks for the clarification! I don't have an FSM and finding this info is nearly impossible! Do you know of a writeup or a guide describing the transmission removal procedure online? I'm sure many others like me are slightly confused..

Anyway, thanks for the help!
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 12:02 PM
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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I've never used any type of write up, just got it there and did it. There might be something on YouTube.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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When you go to remove the bolts, you'll have to tap on the wrench with a hammer or the back of your hand to break them loose. A steady pressure will just turn the engine. Or lock the flywheel in place with a wedge of wood. It's basically just like removing a clutch pressure plate.
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