Powersteering Flush? "We don't do those, they're not necessary-it's a closed system"
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Old fart with a wrench
Okay. I have to correct my last post because of further research of the Chrysler steering box. That adjusting screw DOES more the sector shaft closer to the worm piston. The proper way to adjust it is to turn the steering wheel from left limit to right limit, counting the turns. Then turn it back 1/2 the number of turns. This is from a book explaining how to preload the shaft when it's out of the vehicle, so just putting the steering straight should do it.
Loosen the locknut and turn the slotted screw in until the looseness is just gone, then tighten 3/8 to 1/2 turn more. Tighten the locknut.
This is from a Mitchell Service Manual for Domestic Light Trucks (1977), procedures for the Chrysler Constant Power system. They may have gone to the Saginaw Rotary Valve system since then, IDK. You may get more up-to-date info from another source.
Most of my previous post was about the manual steering units.
Loosen the locknut and turn the slotted screw in until the looseness is just gone, then tighten 3/8 to 1/2 turn more. Tighten the locknut.
This is from a Mitchell Service Manual for Domestic Light Trucks (1977), procedures for the Chrysler Constant Power system. They may have gone to the Saginaw Rotary Valve system since then, IDK. You may get more up-to-date info from another source.
Most of my previous post was about the manual steering units.
Quote:
Also, there is a little play built into the box because the servo has to move off center in order to apply hydraulic pressure to the steering.
Rack-and-pinion steering is a lot more positive than the system jeeps have, but is almost impossible to install on them because they need to have the unit pretty close to axle centerline.
I know, clear as mud, right?
Well your explanation of the difference between steering of the two vehicles makes sense. If I'm planning to do a 3.5 - 4inch lift and this is a daily driven (highway) vehicle doing 80mph daily, would it be advisable to buy that upgrade component from IRO? Originally Posted by dave1123
I've tried to adjust my Chevy truck's box with that screw. 1/4 turn in either direction from where it was causes a bind. Then I did some research and found the adjustment was designed for the original set-up of the box, aligning the pathway for the *****. To find out if this pathway is worn, try turning the steering wheel either left or right near the limit and check the free play in it with the engine shut off. If it's worn, you should have a lot less play at the limits than in the center. The screw is a vertical adjustment of the pitman arm shaft, not an eccentric to move it closer to the steering shaft. Also, there is a little play built into the box because the servo has to move off center in order to apply hydraulic pressure to the steering.
Rack-and-pinion steering is a lot more positive than the system jeeps have, but is almost impossible to install on them because they need to have the unit pretty close to axle centerline.
I know, clear as mud, right?
Quote:
Loosen the locknut and turn the slotted screw in until the looseness is just gone, then tighten 3/8 to 1/2 turn more. Tighten the locknut.
This is from a Mitchell Service Manual for Domestic Light Trucks (1977), procedures for the Chrysler Constant Power system. They may have gone to the Saginaw Rotary Valve system since then, IDK. You may get more up-to-date info from another source.
Most of my previous post was about the manual steering units.
This finally makes sense to me. I had seen a video on Bleepin Jeep but it was for a XJ. I wasn't sure if the systems were the same since it's a different model and a different motor. Originally Posted by dave1123
Okay. I have to correct my last post because of further research of the Chrysler steering box. That adjusting screw DOES more the sector shaft closer to the worm piston. The proper way to adjust it is to turn the steering wheel from left limit to right limit, counting the turns. Then turn it back 1/2 the number of turns. This is from a book explaining how to preload the shaft when it's out of the vehicle, so just putting the steering straight should do it. Loosen the locknut and turn the slotted screw in until the looseness is just gone, then tighten 3/8 to 1/2 turn more. Tighten the locknut.
This is from a Mitchell Service Manual for Domestic Light Trucks (1977), procedures for the Chrysler Constant Power system. They may have gone to the Saginaw Rotary Valve system since then, IDK. You may get more up-to-date info from another source.
Most of my previous post was about the manual steering units.
I appreciate the info.
A reputable shop could perform something like this, right? Or is this something to take to a specialist?
Old fart with a wrench
Now that I've thought about it, that much preload on a worn box might make it bind near the L/R limits. You might want to adjust the preload near one end of it's travel on a portion of the piston that isn't worn. That way you can see if it's worn enough in the center to replace the box.