Thomaz

Dear Forum Members, this is my first thread, I'm new here. I have spent the last year paying for much service on my ZJ 1994 5.2L. pcv valve, New Fuel pump ( 2nd one since I've had the car), ignition coil, ignition coil wire, new radiator, idle motor, Crankcase sensor, pick up coil in distributor, new sparkplug wires, a full tune up, had the throttle body cleaned quite well, new brakes...there may be more but, I don't have all the receipts handy (in storage - recently moved). The car has been down because after so many different things being done to it, it was still stalling. Finally, after a new set of mechanics replaced the pick up coil, they stated that the ECM was overheating and this was why it kept stalling. (The typical ECM problem as I have found out over the forum). So, I purchased a replacement ECM, the exact number as mine and the car just did a round trip of about 160 miles. When I returned today, about a 75 mile trip, during the first 15 miles the check engine light came on. I arrived home safely, but, was curious as to what the code was to tell me. I used the key on off etc. technique and got back a code of 1232 - which I translated into 35. I did the code check quite a few times. Now, please let me note the following: When the last mechanics worked on the car - it was odd how it would
be a bit rough upon start up, and need to be revved up - up to around 1000, and then I would bring it back down gently to idle speed, then it would idle well. IF not, if I just started the car and left it alone ( before it would run fine) the RPM would go up and down and up and more often then not stall out. It wasn't doing this before they worked on it ( performed an electrical check, apparently adjusted the idle because it was a bit high, and decided it was an over heating ECM) BTW this work was done by the stations electrical expert - with assistant and all.The owner swore to me that this fellow is top notch. And the expert swore to me that he checked all the sensors etc and the only issue was low voltage at the pick up coil so they replaced it. Now, i replaced the ECM last week, and just did 150 or so round trip so I believe its working just fine, and has solved the stall problem. However, after I checked for the code, I decided to start the car and move it a bit further down the block. The car ran rough - it idled but was a bit tentative and seemed to stutter a bit. It did run, but, it was certainly not as smooth as it had been before.

I too checked on line for the code indicator and assuming that I have translated the code correctly (1232 = 35) would it not be prudent to say that perhaps it is the connection to the idle switch motor? I do not write to you for help lightly. I have gone through hell and back and with very little funds. This car supports my opera company here in Brooklyn, taking sets too and fro so that we can perform around the metro area - we operate in the new economy - NO funding, NO support except from ourselves and we operate only from audience proceeds. That said I have to do the work myself ( from now on) because too much has been spent on this wonderful car. (I'm the second owner, the first was my cousin, it is just about to turn 184,000 miles and when it runs the engine is fabulous. It's been well cared for between the two of us.
Your advice is invaluable to me. Thank you in advance. Thomas P.S. My grandfather was a master mechanic for Buick from the beginning of Buick, would that I had learned more from him and been more consistent in my working on cars, as some of my other cousins have :=).

RTorrez1

You might get a better response if you post this in the GC section and not the XJ section.

Parsnip

I would clean out your idle air controller. It sits in the throttle body Nd is a plunger that allows air to move past the butterfly in the throttle body. They are also fairly cheap to replace, and not too hard to get to. On the v8 grands I believe it is on the back half of the throttle body (looking from front of vehicle). Two torx screws hold it in. Pull it out, pull back the plunger sheath and clean it with a toothbrush and carb cleaner. Stick it back in and see if it runs smoother. If not, is replace it because honestly it sounds like they just rode your for all they could with the other parts.

Thomaz

Thank you. I had no idea I was in the wrong section. I apologize. T

Bustedback

Weed out the useless info and get to the point of the question, nobody is going to read all of War and Peace.

Thomaz

Thank you, the idle air controller was replaced fairly recently(by a pro, not by me) - I know exactly where it is and I'll quickly follow your instructions and or replace it again. Thanks, T

Radi

1232 is "12" and "32", no?
12 means the battery was disconnected at some point, 32 is an EGR related fault. EGR could account for the symptoms you describe. I'm not familiar enough with that engine to tell you much else.

It's tough finding funding for the Arts these days, seems to be one of the first things that gets cut. Good luck!

From Allpar:

Parsnip

Can't he try something like soaking the egr valve in deadpan or rubbing alcohol to try and clean it out some?

Thomaz

Wow, I had not considered that it would throw 2 codes at once! Duh!. 12 has come up for some time because the battery has been connected a lot in the last month if not more, due to much work. That said - the EGR is something I have been wanting to replace but, for the life of me, although I've read where it is, I still can't seem to find it! I've been looking for a better picture. Frankly, whether or not it's that or the idle controller, I want to replace it anyway, for over 2 years ago I had a mechanic tell me that the EGR was a problem but, he simply cut it off, put a golf T in the vacuum tube. The car ran, since then, until the last year when many issues occurred. The worst of which was chronic stalling. Finally solved by replacing the EMU. Thanks very much for your suggestions, Radi and also to Parsnip. My brother-in-law a retired (yet very thorough) mechanic, told me I could manipulate the EGR diaphragm to dislodge the carbon!. If either of you have a picture source I'd greatly appreciate it. Thomas.

Radi

I haven't worked on that engine, but I found a pic online of what the EGR assembly should look like. Perhaps you can find it by looking for this?

Thomaz

Thanks Radi - I will send it to my phone - however, at the place where the "books" say it is, there's an amazing mess of wires. Perhaps it's just that I have to get on top of the engine :-). I'll let you know. Thomas

dave1123

Welcome to CF, Thomaz! As to the check engine codes, I've seen engines throw as many are 5 codes at one time. I don't know about Jeep's OBDI codes, but my Dodge Caravan would show a code 12, which is "start of sequence", then the problem codes followed by a code 55, which is "end of sequence". My 2000 Grand is OBDII and just shows the "P" code in the odometer. Mine right now has a P0740 which is "lock-up convertor"

As far as your double fuel pump replacement is concerned, my Caravan's fuel filler pipe rotted out allowing dirt and road crap to enter the tank, plugging the pump's intake screen. When the dealer replaced it, they didn't clean out the tank, so it plugged AGAIN within 2 weeks. To be truthful, they changed the pump again and cleaned out the tank for free. They appologized for not cleaning it out the first time because it cost me almost $900 for the pump and filler pipe! I only took it to them because I didn't have the time to do it myself. Before the repair, I searched the junkyards for the filler pipe and couldn't find a single one that wasn't rusted out!

I know how hard it is to find funding for the arts, especially in NYC where there are so many companies. Unless you have a couple of benefactors, you're going to have a hard time. Good luck with that!

po0dingles

OverlandZJ

EGR valve located next to distributor at rear of intake manifold, in front of firewall.

Thomaz

Hi Dave, Thanks very much for relating your experience with codes and the fuel pump. I have a feeling that one of the fuel pump replacements might have been exacerbated because of a dirty tank - since I read on a forum that such things occur due to a white substance that enters the gas when a pump fails. As far as funding, I'm a head of the game. After creating 4 non profits in 3 different countries I decided NO MORE NON PROFITS and I"m simply running the company with what ever I can make from coachings and audience proceeds. It is against, NON - profit rules however, we are not a non profit..more like a sub-non profit. It doesn't pay the bills but, at this stage in my life I really don't care. There's a lot more freedom in it, however, it does mean that what others do with money one has to be very creative and , yes, patient. We do belong however, to the competition so to speak if you're interested check out this website...www.nyoa.org - we are one of the founding members! Thanks again. ThomasT