New Radiator Cap Needed???
#1
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Location: Tempe
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6
New Radiator Cap Needed???
My radiator cap is leaking coolant. I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Engine 6.
Where can I order a new one? I am having trouble finding one.
Thanks!
PS It's my first Jeep & we've only been together a couple of weeks.
Where can I order a new one? I am having trouble finding one.
Thanks!
PS It's my first Jeep & we've only been together a couple of weeks.
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6
Thanks! I went to 3 different auto stores and they were out. The ones that I am finding online for my engine are all black and plastic. I don't really trust plastic
#6
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Most of the (overflow) caps for a Grand Cherokee are lousy. I went tried two replacement caps new from the store, and they just screw down a couple turns then start spinning. I don't know if they are the same ones sold for XJs...but don't be surprised if that happens. I saw on another board that the cap for the Volvo 940 turbo is a better fit, and it was. (they only made the 940 turbo a few years so its the same cap)
/edit for clarity
/edit for clarity
Last edited by basegrinder; 07-18-2013 at 04:26 AM.
#7
Old fart with a wrench
Are you talking about the radiator cap or the overflow reservoir cap? If it's the latter, I've heard the Volvo cap works.
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6
It's the metal radiator cap. I have been looking online but all I can find is for the 4 cyl and I need one for the 6 cyl. I am going to try to call a dealership today and see if maybe they have one in stock
#9
Old fart with a wrench
Just about ANY radiator pressure cap will work. You don't even have to specify make or model. I don't see the problem. It's only a 3/4 turn locking cap.
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
This thread is not too old I don't suppose.
I have a '97 Grand Cherokee, 2WD, 4.0 I-6, 156,000 miles. Yesterday on our hottest day so far (99 deg) (37 C for some of you), I exited the highway, came to a stoplight, and it died. When I restarted it, it dinged at me and the Check Gauges light was flashing. Temp gauge was pegged. I had stopped at a conv. store 8 miles before and left it running, and when I walked by to get in, I hadn't noticed a smell nor any steam. I often look at my gauges, but don't recall if I did that time or not. I don't know if I did while driving before it died, but I assume I must not have.
Let it cool off, added 2-1/2 gal of water, it started right up and has run fine since (12 miles to work, then back, speeds to 65 mph is all I've driven). When I had taken off the radiator cap, it seemed looser than on other vehicles I've owned. I read threads on here about the caps going bad, so I went to O'Reilly's and got a new one (Murray), but it seems to fit exactly like the old one . . . goes over the first hump, then doesn't feel like it is wedging down until right at the end, call it 1/20th of a turn. Is that how they're supposed to be? Do I need an OEM?
A couple of times, I've noticed a slight coolant smell when I've gotten out of it, but I haven't seen a drip at all. I added about 1-1/2 quarts once, about 6 or 7 weeks after I got it, and I've checked it a couple of times, but it was full (the plastic "overflow" tank). I had opened the cap once or twice and it was full. I park on clean concrete now (for the last 2 months) and haven't noticed anything except A/C condensation dripping. I guess this was a case of me not staying on top of it like I should, with it being a new vehicle to me, but it ran slightly below 210 all the time except slightly above on hot days with the A/C on.
Any advice will be appreciated. I read about removing the temp sensor and letting air out of the head. Will do that tomorrow morning when I'm doing sway bar bushings and end links.
I have a '97 Grand Cherokee, 2WD, 4.0 I-6, 156,000 miles. Yesterday on our hottest day so far (99 deg) (37 C for some of you), I exited the highway, came to a stoplight, and it died. When I restarted it, it dinged at me and the Check Gauges light was flashing. Temp gauge was pegged. I had stopped at a conv. store 8 miles before and left it running, and when I walked by to get in, I hadn't noticed a smell nor any steam. I often look at my gauges, but don't recall if I did that time or not. I don't know if I did while driving before it died, but I assume I must not have.
Let it cool off, added 2-1/2 gal of water, it started right up and has run fine since (12 miles to work, then back, speeds to 65 mph is all I've driven). When I had taken off the radiator cap, it seemed looser than on other vehicles I've owned. I read threads on here about the caps going bad, so I went to O'Reilly's and got a new one (Murray), but it seems to fit exactly like the old one . . . goes over the first hump, then doesn't feel like it is wedging down until right at the end, call it 1/20th of a turn. Is that how they're supposed to be? Do I need an OEM?
A couple of times, I've noticed a slight coolant smell when I've gotten out of it, but I haven't seen a drip at all. I added about 1-1/2 quarts once, about 6 or 7 weeks after I got it, and I've checked it a couple of times, but it was full (the plastic "overflow" tank). I had opened the cap once or twice and it was full. I park on clean concrete now (for the last 2 months) and haven't noticed anything except A/C condensation dripping. I guess this was a case of me not staying on top of it like I should, with it being a new vehicle to me, but it ran slightly below 210 all the time except slightly above on hot days with the A/C on.
Any advice will be appreciated. I read about removing the temp sensor and letting air out of the head. Will do that tomorrow morning when I'm doing sway bar bushings and end links.
#12
Old fart with a wrench
All you need to do is SLIGHTLY bend the locking tabs to get a tighter seal. It's possible the locking ramps on your radiator filler neck are worn.
I have a 210* thermostat in my '00 WJ 4.0 and it runs between one needle width above or below the center mark all the time. My A/C needs recharging so I'm not using it.
I don't think you need to bleed it. If you had air in it, it would be running very hot. Check you radiator when it's cold. If the coolant is right up to the cap, there isn't any air in it.
I have a 210* thermostat in my '00 WJ 4.0 and it runs between one needle width above or below the center mark all the time. My A/C needs recharging so I'm not using it.
I don't think you need to bleed it. If you had air in it, it would be running very hot. Check you radiator when it's cold. If the coolant is right up to the cap, there isn't any air in it.
Last edited by dave1123; 07-25-2014 at 07:25 AM.
#13
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
Had 'net probs for a week . . . Thanks Dave! I bent the tabs a little. It starts to wedge down snug a little bit sooner, definitely a difference, and feels more like the caps on other vehicles I've owned. I drove it 11 or 12 miles and it ran cooler, down by the mark below 210, and then the same on the way back. (air temp upper 80's, AC on)
#14
Old fart with a wrench
You see, that's production quality for you. The angle of those tabs is important and they probably weren't bent right at the factory. I'm glad it cured your problem.
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