Anybody use this in their D30 and D44 axles? All i read about here is the Amsoil and Redline. This is about $5.00 a quart cheaper.

 

No, but I use Valvoline 75W-140 Synthetic in my D30 and D35. It's a bit pricey.

 

Blueseasons. Save your money and buy the Lucas. There is nothing special about your axles and nothing magic about those pricier brands.

 

I am trying to figure this out. The MOPAR stuff is up to $30.00 a quart. The Redline and AMSOIL is about $20.00. LUCAS is $15.00. I have not heard of people using it and I have heard many of their products referred to as being snake oil.

 

I have come to the conclusion that each brand of lube product has some particular benefit, it really comes down to is what works for your needs. I change oils with fanatical regularity because oils are comparatively cheap cost wise, engine and driveline components are not. Holiday Greetings to All !
Bearstream

 

A lot of companies say their products are synthetic when in reality they are not. For instance Valvoline synthetic oils are triple-refined to remove all impurities so they call them "synthetic" when they are just super-clean petroleum based products. I used to work for Ashland so I know the company rhetoric. Being as pure as they can make them allows them to be more stable in their intended use. For gear oils, it's not so critical because they are not subject to the heat of motor oils that can cause breakdown, unless you're towing heavy loads at highway speeds all the time or racing.

It's your call.

 

If you change fluids with regularity at or before the factory recommended interval then I would not bother with synthetic. There is little debate that synthetic is better in most areas, however for regular maintenance with normal wear and tear, they just don't provide the extra protection they would in an extreme use situation. Even for major 4 wheeling I would recommend a conventional fluid changed more frequently then using a synthetic with an extended interval. Obviously this holds true only for fluids that meet the recommended factory specs. Above all else, you need to have the right formula.

The Lucas, as long as it meets the spec, will work fine. I honestly would just get the required conventional Mystik brand from Rural King and then take the family out to eat with the savings. I trust the Mystik brand wholeheartedly and its about as inexpensive as it gets.

 

I've only owned this WJ a short time. I don't know the last time my gear oil was changed by the previous owners. I am not a wheeler. I want to put in the lowest price gear oil that will meet the JEEP spec, mostly to avoid damage to the components. I thought what is put in mattered like it does with the transfer
case. Thanks everybody.

 

Well, here's a case in point. When I got my WJ, it had 125K miles on it and had maintenance records that just showed the big stuff. I figured the weakest link was the transmission, so I concentrated on that. It had had a complete fluid change at 100K so I left it for another 25K. Mopar ATF+4 was ridiculous in price, so I looked at Chrysler's service bulletins to find alternatives that met the specs. There were quite a few to choose from. Basically, any product that meets Mopar specs should have that listed on the side of the bottle. I believe Lucas was one of them, BTW.

Anyway, any "dinosaur juice" is good as long as it's changed regularly, for the diff that is! Transmissions and transfer cases are another story.

 

I have a mix of about three different brands in mine...
All conventional oils just that autozone didn't have enough of any one brand to fill up both diffs.
I think I have Lucas and Castrol in my D30, Lucas and autozone brand in my 8.25. Just get the right weight, make sure to seal it up good and move on to the next trail.

 

I have ran Redline in a couple of my race cars but have changed to Lucas for them about 6 yrs ago, forget about the other "Snake Oil" you mentioned.


In my 04 WJ Overland 4.7HO D30/D44 both with factory posi's in them I run Castrol full syn in everything for it from engine back. Have now for going on my 5th year I have the driveline/radiator serviced every 2 yrs in it unless it sees any kind of high water then ASAP (only once so far water across a road about 2 1/2-3' in spots for a 1/4 of a mile). Lubrication/oil/fluids/filters are cheap change them often it pays to do so.


My XJ gets regular gear lube and its changed very often as its in the water a lot and the engine get dino oil as well.

 

I have a 1993 XJ that I just bought. It doesn't appear that it was maintained very well over the years. I wanted to put synthetic gear oil in the manual transmission. However, I've read that some brands are not yellow metal safe and the will be hard on the brass syncros inside. Any advice?

Update: I followed the suggestion that I use Synthetic 10w-30. I'm sure the old fluid was from 1993. It's amazing how much better it shifts now. It's like it's brand new.