I have a 94 Jeep Laredo 5.2 and it is acting and sounding very crazy at times. I bought it about 2 weeks ago. The day I got it, pulled across the road after transferring into my name (I needed air in 1 of the tires & there was a mechanic shop) left motor running while I ran in came back out, like 2-3 minutes top) and green anti freeze was pouring out from the over flow and the temperature gauge was reading hot. So I let it cool down put more antifreeze and and checked the rest of the fluids, everything appeared fine. Fired right up, then not even 5 miles later it did it again. Let it cool down again and added anti freeze, 5 miles later back on the side of road. So a man stopped and had some tools and removed my thermostat, which did solve that problem. Back on the road for maybe 10 minutes and the transmission just stopped pulling. So I had it towed to a friend's garage, and changed the fluid and filter in transmission, which seemed to do the job, for a few days. And let me add the transmission fluid was thick, dark and had metal shavings and the next morning when I went to start it, it wouldn't turn over, just made a clicking noise. Got a jump, drove it for hours and even charged the battery back to life, which did not help, so now I have replaced the battery. I have had this Jeep for going on 2 weeks now and here is what it is currently doing:
1. In the mornings when I go to start it fires right up and runs good. On occasions I will hear a noise coming from around the passenger side front end (was told it could be torque converter also told to change my transmission fluid filter and the seal too (cause last I left the old seal on). I did use Lucas treatment in both cases. This time the fluid was a dark purple, not many shavings,however there was long pieces of something (maybe from a belt or carbon build up, not quit sure) laying in bottom of pan.
2. Most of the time it while not go in overdrive. If overdrive is on it will jerk and sputter while shifting most of the time.
3. Sometimes when I have to come to a stop it will shut off, other times it don't. It's about a 50 50 chance of doing either. But, if you keep your foot on the gas and brake at the same time then it will not die and will remain running.
4. I can see a part in the engine that isn't hooked into anything. It's like a vacuum hose, but it will still run if you seal the ends of it up, not sure what this part is but it does suck in air. I have not tried driving with the 2 round holes at the end sealed up though.
5. At times when I go to put it in gear, if it don't die first, it makes a loud whining noise.
6. But keep in mind it does none of this on my drive into work, (it's usually been setting overnight for a good 8 hours) which is about 20 or so miles.
7. I do want to also clarify that the thermostat is still out of the vehicle, as I don't have a lot of money, I am having to do things slower but this is my only vehicle and I depend on it to get to work, run with the kids, etc.

If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate. As it started falling apart as soon as it was transferred into my name. The previous owner will not cooperate at all. He blocked my number and told me "it's your baby now" and hung up.
I am a newbie to this forum, and all information is appreciated!

 

Moved to OEM GC tech

It would help if you list all the pertinent info about your ride...what transmission, transfercase, any check engine lights, if so what are the codes, etc...you posted in OEM XJ tech, but put that you have a 5.2 engine, so it's a Grand Cherokee...when you changed the fluid, what did you use, if you used the wrong fluid, it might cause problems...

That said, what it sounds like to me, is this guy screwed you over, and knew he was doing so...polished a turd, and pawned it off, so you now have his headache. Did you have it inspected by a mechanic prior to buying? I'm guessing not.

Sounds like you're learning a very expensive lesson.

 

Well first off Welcome to the forum!

Sounds like you should be looking for a good used transmission.
Several of the issues seem to point in that direction. Is the check engine light on?

Max

 

I apologize, I am new to these forums but here is additional information:
1994 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 5.2, with full time 4wd.
I have a 46RH tranamission(I googled what kind of transmission). I'm not sure what kind of transfer case, as it didn't come with an owner's manual or any other kind of useful paperwork, but it says New Process Gear and C-1666_8 and below that CAV 3W, Model 249 J. I actually just got under the Jeep and wrote what it said.
The only lights that are on is ABS and low gas (but this stays on, I keep the tank full because of this. The check engine light is not on.
The transmission fluid that was used Castrol for high mileage/Dex II and put a quart of Lucas in it. After I changed the fluids it ran smoothly for a few days. I just don't know why it's only doing things sometimes.
And if I posted to the wrong forum please let me know and guide me in the right direction.
And, yes I have definitely learned my lesson. I just don't know whether it would be cheaper to sale it or try and fix it (once I figure out what is wrong).
Thanks

 

I finally figured out how to get my codes:
12 I assume because I recently changed the battery
17 says engine stays cool to long/thermostat,
which I had to remove thermostat and have not
replaced it yet.
55 I have learned this is what code it should flash
last.
So if I replace with a new thermostat, which is what I had planned to do when payday comes, does that mean my problem is fixed and my Jeep will start driving like it should again?
And someone had said they thought it could be my torque converter/solenoid. Would I get a code if mine was bad?
Again any and all information or advice is really important, as I don't want to sink a lot of money into something that's too expensive and time consuming.

 

I am really hoping it's not the transmission, but from what I have read I was leaning towards that or a torque converter. However I finally found out how to check my codes and they are:
12=Because I recently had to buy a new one
17=engine running to cold/wrong or faulty thermostat. This is because the day I bought it, it overheated and we removed the thermostat and I have to wait til payday to replace it.
55=last code after it tells you all the things wrong.
However I do have a question. In my Jeep, below the radio and vents, there is supposed to be something there that is missing and when I looked it up the other day it showed what looked like a digital diagram of my jeep. There are a bunch of wires there but nothing else. So would this through of the codes and not be telling me if there is other things wrong with my Jeep?
I mean if I was having transmission problems would the code for it flashed no matter what?

Seems like the more I research for answers to fix it I wind up with more problems and questions....

 

Torque converter clutch is code 37. Not to worry, mine hasn't worked in 5 years. All it does basically is allow the engine to run 200 rpm lower at highway speeds. Like mine runs about 2100 instead of 1900 at 65 mph.

Bits and pieces in the trans pan is worrisome however. You're looking at a transmission rebuild or a used replacement. A rebuild can cost between $1200 and $3000 depending on who does it. At my local Pick&Pull, I can get a used transmission for around $200, then pay someone labor to put it in.

The numbers you read were the transfer case, not the transmission, but yes, you have a 46rh transmission. The proper fluid for that is ATF+4 only! You can buy any brand as long as it says ATF+4 on the bottle. 93 used Mercon/Dextron III. The t/case is a NP249 constant 4wd. That takes a special fluid available from Mopar parts or a dealer.

You should buy a Haynes repair manual to get acquainted with your jeep. They aren't very complete, but will give you the basics.

The overheat can be caused by several things. WORST CASE SCENARIO, a blown head gasket, but it could just be a plugged radiator, bad fan clutch, broken water pump impeller, or a bad thermostat. When you buy the thermostat, make sure you buy a gasket as well. 195* is the proper temp. The engine is designed to run at that temp for proper mixture settings. If it doesn't overheat without the thermostat, chances are it's not a blown head gasket.

It sounds to me the vacuum hoses are for the evap system carbon canister which probably has been removed. They should be plugged for now. We'll get to that later.

 

If you do get a used transmission make sure you get the torque converter with it. Also make sure you pull the pan and inspect for any signs of metal or other debris before you buy it. You don't want to buy one that is in bad shape.

Max

 

What ZJMAX said is true. Pick&Pull gives you a 30 warranty if it doesn't work, but in order to get another one, you have to bring it back! So you pay for the labor of removing it and putting another in! It doesn't sound fun to me.

 

Thanks to all that replied. Here is an update and some questions:
1. Since the 2nd transy fluid and filter change, it was driving good in the mornings, after it had set all night, but in the evenings when getting off work it would not shift right. I would have to manually shift and take it out of overdrive. I noticed that something leaking underneath. It was transmission fluid and upon further inspection I could tell the transy seal was uneven, due to it being overtorked. I constantly check all fluids before I ever drive. It was always in the correct spot on the dipstick, even though it has been leaking for days.
Shouldn't the fluids be showing low due to the leak? My guess about a half a cup per day.
2. I noticed the water pump is squeaking, but appears to be working fine.
3. I noticed that the bottom radiator hose is hard. I first thought it may be full of dirt, rust, etc until reading that there is a spring in it.
I just want to make sure this is correct?
4. I am still/was driving without a thermostat. I am unsure if this might have caused the following issue that I am no having or not?
I live in Kentucky so the weather here is around low to high 60's at night and 70 to 80s during the day. I was told I would be ok driving without one for a little while, cause of the weather here but it may build up carbon deposits, but that was about it. I am only drive about 40 miles per day (20 in the mornings and 20 of the evenings).
My plan yesterday (as I took of work and had a mechanic friend that was able to help) and we were going to replace the thermostat, flush radiator, drain transmission cooler and lines (replacing the filter and torque it correctly. I was also going to clean all the carbon buildup and lube it up, since everything seems so dry underneath the hood and undercarriage.
However on my way to work, I put it in Neutral, as I do every time I start the engine, and it was making a whining noise (possible governor pressure switch/solenoid). For the first 3 miles it still drove fine (I still manually shift and turn od off). Then it finally stopped pulling. I could go a few miles then all it would do, in any gears, was rev and not move. I would pull over and sit for 15 to 20 minutes and try it again, and the same thing kept having. After making it to a gas station I pulled in and just left it there. I got a ride to work and after work I stopped to check on it and it appears to have leaked out a lot of transy fluid. I will also add that when it started acting up and I would have to pull over, I would also have to add transy fluid at each stop.
I am getting ready to go put transy fluid in it and see how it does and try to get it to the garage, as I don't need a tow bill on top of all the labor and repairs, and it's only 7 miles up the road.
I have been reading all the possible things that is causing all of this to happen, because at first I thought it was all related to 1 issue. I am leaning towards the governor pressure switch/solenoid is bad.
I have read on many threads that my issues happen a lot with the Jeep GC Laredo 5.2 (1994), and most of the time it is 1 thing causing everything else to act up.
If I make it to the shop, then I am going to do all things mentioned above, since I have already bought everything, with the exception of governor switch.
If anyone has anything to add, I could use all the help I can get.
Again THANKS for everyone's input.

 

Honestly from what you found in the pan originally plus all these other issues I would guess the transmission clutches are toast on top of whatever else is wrong in there. I would save whatever money you were going to throw at this transmission (fluid, gasket, filter, etc...) and find a replacement trans. IMO you would be wasting money at this point on that transmission that clearly has issues.

Max

 

Im gonna try that .."I'm a girl, help me" line sometime.

 

Tracy, IDK if anybody told you, but that transmission fluid level must be checked while idling in neutral. If you check it in Park, it'll show about 1 quart higher so when driving it'll be low. 1 quart low can make it shift funny and that added with a leak can make it slip.

In my opinion, that transmission is compromised and no amount of work short of a rebuild is going to make it right. I've been where you are already. I fell in love with a 97 Grand Cherokee as my first jeep and bought it without knowing anything about jeeps. Within a week, it started slipping badly. Because it was my only vehicle, I took it to a national franchised transmission shop to get it rebuilt. Because it needed a lot of "hard parts," it cost me $3000 before it was done! In addition, they replaced the rear axle pinion seal and did it wrong, resulting in the axle blowing up 2 days after I got it back! They fixed that free, but it was never the same.

This happened a month after my wife passed away so you can imagine my state of mind! I had just sold her Dodge Caravan that had a bad cylinder.