Lock-up converter
#1
Old fart with a wrench
Thread Starter
Lock-up converter
I've got a 2000 WJ 4.0 with the 42RE trans. It's got 135K on it with no problems. Clean fluid, changed 15K ago with a T-Tech machine. No slippage, no problems shifting, shifts are solid at the right times and power settings. (NP 242 transfer)
Recently I've got a CEL with a P0740 code which tells me the torque converter isn't locking up. I can feel it isn't by the way the RPMs change between power on and coasting. I'm running about 300 rpms faster at 65 mph than it did before. Also, my mpg has gone down to 11 mpg.
A local family-owned well respected transmission shop told me it would be in my best interests to rebuild the tranny instead of just the converter. Their point was by the time they took the trans out, changed the converter, and reinstalled it, I would have spent 3/4 of the price of a rebuild with a new converter. They're talking between $2000 and $3000.
Do you guys think I should go with a rebuild? I'm no longer physically capable of doing this job myself, although I have in the past. On my Chevy truck, the rear crossmember could be unbolted and the trans and transfer could be just slid rearward for the change. Can this be done with the WJ? Someone told me the crossmember is welded in on this model. It's still hovering around 20* with snow and ice on the ground, so I haven't gotten under it yet.
What should I do? I really don't want to spend the money, but I need the Jeep. It's my one and only transportation. The amount of money really isn't the issue, I'll have to borrow it on my 2nd mortgage anyhow.
Recently I've got a CEL with a P0740 code which tells me the torque converter isn't locking up. I can feel it isn't by the way the RPMs change between power on and coasting. I'm running about 300 rpms faster at 65 mph than it did before. Also, my mpg has gone down to 11 mpg.
A local family-owned well respected transmission shop told me it would be in my best interests to rebuild the tranny instead of just the converter. Their point was by the time they took the trans out, changed the converter, and reinstalled it, I would have spent 3/4 of the price of a rebuild with a new converter. They're talking between $2000 and $3000.
Do you guys think I should go with a rebuild? I'm no longer physically capable of doing this job myself, although I have in the past. On my Chevy truck, the rear crossmember could be unbolted and the trans and transfer could be just slid rearward for the change. Can this be done with the WJ? Someone told me the crossmember is welded in on this model. It's still hovering around 20* with snow and ice on the ground, so I haven't gotten under it yet.
What should I do? I really don't want to spend the money, but I need the Jeep. It's my one and only transportation. The amount of money really isn't the issue, I'll have to borrow it on my 2nd mortgage anyhow.
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
For what it's worth, you can pick up a torque converter for a 42RE for about $250-$350. I know you said money is not the issue, but it seems like a mechanic could install a jeep transmission in four hours (~ $400 to $450). I guess the question would be whether you think the rest of the transmission will hold up for a while. The crossmember being welded sounds strange. My ZJ is not welded. I have a buddy who has a WJ I could look under it when I see him if someone doesn't chime in first.
#4
Old fart with a wrench
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! I thought I felt a cold draft up my skirt. I haven't crawled under it yet, but it seemed to me that if it were welded, it would be unusual to say the least.
The transmission is functioning perfectly and was never over stressed. It was a little slow to engage at -15*, so I just left it in neutral until the engine got to operating temp and it was fine. It was T-Teched at 125K and only has 10K on it since. I think I'll talk to my classic car guy and see if he is interested in replacing the converter.
Next question. When doing this, would it be smart to replace the CPS while it's out? I know it should be removed to avoid damage and getting it back in proper alignment is critical. Also, I'll replace the filter because the T-Tech didn't open the trans. This should also tell me about clutch condition.
My ZJ went 185K with hard usage off-road and being driven by a young soldier (no offense to soldiers or the military) as a DD until deployment. I know he didn't buy it new. He probably bought it from another soldier.
I value your opinions because you guys have been there and done it. Most of my younger years was done with left-foot clutches and I only got into automatics after getting married.
The transmission is functioning perfectly and was never over stressed. It was a little slow to engage at -15*, so I just left it in neutral until the engine got to operating temp and it was fine. It was T-Teched at 125K and only has 10K on it since. I think I'll talk to my classic car guy and see if he is interested in replacing the converter.
Next question. When doing this, would it be smart to replace the CPS while it's out? I know it should be removed to avoid damage and getting it back in proper alignment is critical. Also, I'll replace the filter because the T-Tech didn't open the trans. This should also tell me about clutch condition.
My ZJ went 185K with hard usage off-road and being driven by a young soldier (no offense to soldiers or the military) as a DD until deployment. I know he didn't buy it new. He probably bought it from another soldier.
I value your opinions because you guys have been there and done it. Most of my younger years was done with left-foot clutches and I only got into automatics after getting married.
#5
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Laredo
You might check your brake light switch for proper operation before you condemn the tranny itself.. if the switch is misadjusted, it can electrically affect converter lockup and overdrive. (If your brake switch is the multi-function type) sorry, i'm not familiar with all models to say for sure
#6
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
You might check your brake light switch for proper operation before you condemn the tranny itself.. if the switch is misadjusted, it can electrically affect converter lockup and overdrive. (If your brake switch is the multi-function type) sorry, i'm not familiar with all models to say for sure
#7
Old fart with a wrench
Thread Starter
You might check your brake light switch for proper operation before you condemn the tranny itself.. if the switch is misadjusted, it can electrically affect converter lockup and overdrive. (If your brake switch is the multi-function type) sorry, i'm not familiar with all models to say for sure
I plan on keeping this vehicle until it gets too expensive to repair. I had to borrow money from my second mortgage to buy it in the first place. I have no options but to borrow the repair costs again. It'll just take me longer to pay it off. I have no assets except the house, and I'm not selling my guns.
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