pwb

Hi, i need this nut that screws the brakeline/tube in to wheelhub in the rear, i got some but they dont have threads all the way down. Its 3/8 24. What is the correct name for that nut??

Is it this one? its 3/8 but it dont say anything about 24? I think its a litle to small to if i look at the one i have, should have been a litle longer
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=587693

If someone have a online shop or part number i would be happy :-)

pwb

Is this what i need?
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=587739

freegdr

Pictures ?

pwb

this is what i need

Bustedback

You need the whole line, not just the flare nut.

pwb

Cant find any lines with nut installed. I have lines and flare tools. I only need the nut

5-90

Flare nuts (that's what they're called) follow a standard thread pitch series - a "3/8" SAE Flare Nut" is going to fit a nominal 3/8" metal tube, and will have 24tpi.

HOWEVER, note that you need to cut the flare off of one end of the line to put the new nut on, put the nut on, and then reflare the end of the line (the nut secures the tube to the part, but the FLARE provides the seal.) This usually means that, if you aren't VERY careful, the line won't reach the part anymore (essentially, you have to cut the flare back at just the point where the tube runs straight, and you can only do it ONE if you're lucky!)

Typically, you end up replacing the whole line, it's actually somewhat less of a fight. If you get a straight line to bend, make sure you use a proper tubing bender (the one that bends the line around a mandrel using a lever bracket,) or maybe a "bending spring" that fits snugly over the tube (theoretically keeps it from collapsing, but I've never liked them. I have mandrel benders running from 1/4" to 1-1/2", but I used to work in hydropneumatics.)

Similarly, I don't trust cutting the line and putting a splice/join to hold a new patch on the end, no matter how rigid. Just like in electronics - every connection is a potential point of failure, and they should be eliminated as much as possible. (I'm good at it, and I don't like doing it. If I have to, it's strictly temporary and will be properly replaced ASAFP!)

Replace the whole line. Use "Flare Nut Wrenches" when you do the work, flare nuts are notoriously soft, and will round off easily (a flare nut wrench is a modification of a six-pointed box wrench with five sides and six corners - If you have to, you can improvise one out of a six-point wrench with a Dremel tool - cut out about 90% of the side farthest away from the handle, leaving a bit on each corner to improve the grip on the nut. I've done this with good results - once you see what a flare nut wrench looks like, you'll get the idea.)

EDIT - It has been rare that I've seen loose flare nuts readily available, and usually only in larger sizes.

pwb

ok, thanx, so 3/8 SAE is 24tpi :-)
I will replace the whole line :-)
I ordered some from rockauto, i got some from a local shop, but they didnt have threads all the way so they dont fit.

dave1123

I had a similar problem on my Dodge Caravan. The rear brakes have two supply lines and one had larger than normal fittings. I couldn't find them anywhere except from Dodge so I cut them off, drilled them out, and used them on standard flare tubing. I had to splice two lengths together in the middle with a HYDRAULIC ferrule union. (not a hardware brass one). Three years later they were still good. The hardest part was sliding the old fittings down the length of the new line. Those part number tags are tenatious!

I convinced the state DMV inspector to pass the Hydraulic Union because it was high pressure steel, not brass. It's good to 20,000 psi.