I'm not getting any fuel to fuel rail after it set up for a year do to me being gone.The pump is coming on for 2 to 3 seconds after I switch the key on to prime but when I checked for fuel at the Schrader valve located on the fuel rail I'm getting nothing

 

1.

Any suggestions on this rust spot? I don’t want it to get worse and is there anyway I can make it look a little better? I’m going to get my Jeep repainted in the spring.

2. I’ve never had this problem with my Jeep before but now when I drive above 50 mph, the whole Jeep feels like it’s dragging and it’s a constant shaking or dragging feeling. If I’m above 50 mph and I let off of the accelerator this dragging goes away. It’s only when I give it gas. I have recently had the spark plugs changed.

 

I am trying to fix my son's 2000 Grand Cherokee. The blower will not shut down even after key has been turned off. The only way to shut it off is by removing fuse. I changed the resistor in the summer. I am looking to see if there is a power motor relay or blower relay of some kind that needs replaced? I have removed glove box and did not find a relay and fuse box does not have anything behind it. Please help or point me in right direction. Thanks.

 

Does this WJ have the dual-zone climate controller with Auto settings? The fan speed controller and corresponding cable/connectors are common fail-points, found under/behind the glovebox. Mine nearly had a meltdown, and even after repairs it still gets hot enough to smell like toasty wire insulation (I'm sensitive to it after that last scare).

 

Yes it does have dual control and I think auto. Do you know of any how-to videos or instructions to fix this? There are a lot of wires and this is definitely not my wheel house.

 

I have no videos but I do have a series of still photos that may help. You should see the same or similar box at lower left of passenger side knee panel. Two photos show the circuit board damage due to overcurrent/overheated connector contacts. I started-out knowing next to nothing about this stuff but slowly worked my way up to it and you can too. You should be able to piece-meal your way into this. Start with a few simple tools like crimpers, strippers & cutters, some insulated quick connects or wire-nuts and some common-sense. Don't be too proud to ask for help from a friend or neighbor who's familiar with this stuff. If we lived close I'd actually coordinate to connect, to reach-out and help...

Connector w/thermal damage next to hottest contacts

Connector w/thermal damage next to hottest contacts

Overstress damages to circuit board

Replacement parts with numbers showing...

 

I don't see many newer Jeeps listed in my 5 minute search so before I ask too many questions, is this the right forum for 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee questions?

 

Yes it is, although IDK how many members have knowledge of something that new. Post in the main section anyhow.

 

Here's the deal. It's a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. I've been having issues with a long travel brake pedal. It all started when the OEM brake calipers started freezing up one by one. I ended up replacing all 4 calipers and hoses within 1 year. I tried bleeding the system several times with no luck. I took it to a mechanic and he couldn't get it much better than I did. I had an ABS light come on (module issue) so I had a different mechanic replace the ABS unit with a used one (the code is gone). The second mechanic thought that the master cylinder was the long pedal issue, so that got replaced. No change. It stops but the pedal almost feels like it's going to the floor. It pumps up nice with the vehicle off. I'm out of ideas. Please help.

 

Hey All,
On my last brain cell here and I *think* I've exhausted the search function looking for my answer...
My problem is my rear passenger window is stuck down. Neither the driver control panel or the door switch work but the power lock on the door works from the driver control panel.

At first I thought I could hear it click on the down motion so I thought it must be the regulator. Went and bought a new regulator, hooked it up... not the regulator! haha .So I checked the 20amp fuse in the interior panel and it's good. Also all the other windows all work fine as do the locks controlled from the driver control panel, so this tells me the circuit Breaker #3 must be good, right?

All the search results then tell me it must be the wiring. I've pulled the boot/ wire cover off the wires running between the passenger doors and everything looks fine. This is the point where I'm out of my depth, but not giving up!

I went out and got a test light, turned the car on and tested ports, below pics of what lit up. So I have some information but don't know what to do with it.
Do the below pics tell anyone anything?
Or any other suggestions?



Thanks all, I'll owe you a beer!

 

Year Make and Model?

Not sure, but it might be the case that you did not fully and accurately check your wires. One way is to check for continuity at this link: with a voltmeter and some clips. You have to check the path from each terminal to each other terminal while also considering continuity may also be a short so you will need to know which is positive and which may be negative and hope both don't have continuity. You may have to "Jiggle" wires at different places along the circuit to find the short. Electrical diagrams can be found at this website: alldatadiy.com for about $19.95 a yr. In the meantime, you should be able to manually push the window up by opening the side panel and pushing it. Without those diagrams, its just a guessing game but you can also check for a draw like this: may work as well. You will need to do that at the Power Distribution Center in the engine bay and that will be perfect time to check those fuses and relays.

 

Sorry but this forum's RTF function sucks. the video previews showed up and messed up my response. Hope its not too difficult

 

It's a 2010 Grand Cherokee Laredo.

Thanks for the reply, I need to educate myself on a voltometer so appreciate the links you posted!

 

One other quick question: I've already taken the regulator out of the door and it doesn't seem like I can manually raise it up. IWill forcing it (if possible) screw up the motor inside? Or is there a way I could skip the bad wiring and get some juice flowing to the regulator to raise it? Preferably without electrocuting myself. Thanks

 

One more "stupid" question... my locks and speaker on the door in question are getting power. Hooking the test light up to the ports where the window switch connects does nothing. So the question, if the other door features are getting power (locks & speaker), does that mean the wiring problem is isolated to the same door or could it still be traced back farther up into the wiring? Thanks again