is there a way to increase the vacume pressure on the tcase if so how? I have a 95 gran Cherokee a 91 s6 2001 trans 242 tcase. I was also wondering if the wiring could be upgraded to obd2

 

Jeep gc are unibody, so no you can't but on a body lift.

 

I hope this is tech related. I just got a set of Hella 500ff lights. I have them mounted, ran the wires in the engine compartment and now is time to run the wires to the switch. Two questions.

1) How the heck do I get the wires into the cabin? The rubber grommet is sealed up tight. Also, I have the 5.2L so there isnt a ton of room to try to get in there. My last ditch effort is to drill a small hole to the side of the grommet from the cabin out to the engine compartment. I will measure to make sure I dont hit anyting but is this ok?

2) Hopefully someone has wired up these lights before. There is an option to run a wire with a fuse into the fuse box. I guess since it has the fuse I can get one of those dummy fuese to plug into the box? Also, should I plug it into the fuse box in the cabin, engine compartment, or doesnt matter. Thanks!!

 

Did you read carefully the schematic that came with the lights?
I would pull the wire the firewall however you can. You could also pull it through where the accelerator cable is. I would just run the lights with the fuse it came with, off the battery to the rocker switch.

Or you could tie into the factory fog lights, even if you don't have them, the wiring harness should be there.

 

Theoretically possible, but a massive project. I don't think you want to go there. It's not just the wiring, it's the computer and every sensor, too, plus the trans computer, oh, and don't forget the airbag system.

 

I have a 98 Grand Cherokee, both back windows slide freely because the regulator bracket has 3 ball joint looking things that are supposed to slide in the track of the window and the door, but all the pivot points except on the motor have come out of the tracks because the plastic bushing they sat in seemed to have shattered. I can line them all back up and roll the window up, but as soon as you take pressure off of it the bracket slide out of the track again. Does anyone know a fix for this or where I could buy these plastic bushings? I can’t find them anywhere. And I’m not buying a whole new regulator assembly since this one works fine.

 

I got it set up correctly. I just ran a wire from the switch to the battery. I guess you can go to the batter or the fuse panel. The only difference is wiring to the fuse panel will make sure the lights go off with the jeep. When wiring to the battery I have to make sure I turn them off. No problem. Thanks for the help!

 

Totally new so hoping to get some help I can't seem to find anyone with a similar issue. I have a 2002 WJ with about 130,000 miles on it. About a week ago I got a check engine light and ran the code it came back as a P0122 the TPS sensor. The next day when I was backing it into my driveway the car stalled in reverse. I took out the throttle body and replaced the TPS sensor and the IAC valve. After restarting the car the code came back up as a PO5050 the IAC valve that was just replaced. Thinking it was just the computer adjusting to the new parts I drove it to work and noticed when I shut off the car the idle speed increased and the engine shake as it shut off. When I got out of the car there was coolant leaking from the overflow of the radiator. It did this again when I got home. The code is still coming up as PO5050. The coolant leak seems to be related to the radiator hoses, or possibly the water pump. But I am not sure why the engine keeps coding for the IAC. Curious if anyone else has had a similar issue or knows if there is anything related between the two. And as there is no code on the coolant leak I am also not sure where to begin on diagnosing that. Thanks for any help.

 

I replaced my valve cover gasket and went ahead and replaced my CPS and CKP with mopar brand while I was at it. In order to do this, I had to remove and reinstall the starter motor. I have everything back together and have checked my battery, fuses, all of the starter and ignition related relays, relay cavities, continuity on the wire to the starter motor and when I turn the key, I get some action at the relays (I can hear them clicking) but the starter motor does absolutely nothing. I think the NSS, ignition switch and cylinder switch are good because the power to the relays would be out they weren't but it isn't, still no power seems to get to the starter. Anyone have ANY ideas before I take it to the shop?

 

In som

 

Hello!!!!
I've recently bought a 2016 Grand Cherokee limited. The batteries have been replaced 2xs within 4 weeks and it is still dieing. The shop isn't sure what's up with it yet. (Not seen by Jeep dealer yet, it's going there today)
Any suggestions? Anyone else see this issue. Also, after about 30 minutes my A/C stops pushing air. I can hear the system on but little to no air coming out.

 

1st time poster. Not even sure if I’m asking on the right thread so if not I apologize. I have a 2014 Gr. Cherokee. The brake light on my dash will not go off. I keep getting a warning light that says my break fluid is low but when I check it my fluid is full. The dealership put it on their computer and said it was the brake fluid sensor and it needs to be replaced. Bought a new one and changed it out and the light is still on. Brake pads and rotors are good. Booster working good. Not sure what else there is to check. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Hello Jeep Nation,

I just picked up a clean 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L 2WD. The wheels and tires are shot. It has OEM 16 inch wheels with 225/75/16 tires on them. Can put 17 inch wheels and tires on this truck? When you look up the year, make and model on a tire site, it comes up with 16" and 17" as OEM. What would determine which size wheels are correct? Just an upgrade option? 2WD vs. 4WD? I am going to put my kid in this car for the winter and I'd like to get some slightly beefier tires for better handling in snow. Any advice would be helpful and greatly appreciated.

 

Hi everyone, This jeep has been one thing after another. I blew out the tranny cooler line. I thought i would run hose with FI clamps, however I couldn't see where it's leaking until I started it. It leaks where the line goes into the tranny. There's a lot of rust on the line so i'm asking if the end that goes into the trans is a quick connect or flared end?

 

First time I’ve posted on a forum, so be easy.
2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0 2WD auto 75k
So the misfires have happened under two conditions. At the shop under sustained rpm of 3000. On the highway under load at 60mph.
Initial code was a crank sensor code.
Changed the crank sensor and replaced an O2 sensor due to a melted wire I noticed.
Leaking rear main.
Reset adaptive memory. Test drove.
In town drives great. 10-20 mins on the highway same misfires. Ran a BG induction kit and let it run for an hour drove it hard around town. Changed the plugs. Test drove. Same codes pop. Cyl 6 & 1 share a coil. Changed the coil. Same codes pop. Pull plugs. Compression check is good. Cyl 6 & 1 are both a little wet.
Leak down test next, but with only 75k on it I doubt I’ll find much.
I’ve searched for days, and have found lots of related issues, but none that get resolved.
Tons of info, but no solutions.
Any help would be appreciated.