Gonna be rebuilding my first trans- suggestions?
44RE... read writeups, scoured the web and am just about ready to give this thing a shot.
Symptoms:
If I try and accelerate hard from a stop on pavement, I get a ridiculous shudder- a very hard, very rapid, grab-release, grab-release, repeated until you let off the gas. If you had sunglasses on the dash board, they would be bouncing around- its that sharp, and hard.
When this trans is in drive-low (first gear of the "D" shift selection), its using the rear clutch and sprag. Its also using the overdrive direct clutch too, technically, but since the direct clutch only engages/disengages when required torque is low (high gear) I don't think its the slipping component. This trans also uses a separate band, or more specifically, the rear band for low and reverse. What I'm going to do (when I get my 242 back in) is shift it into low, and accelerate hard. If the shudder goes away, then I believe the sprag would be the problem- because shifting into low, added the stopping power of the rear band. If the shudder remains, then I think the problem is either a worn rear clutch pack, or insufficient line pressure to it. Since this shudder is so sharp, I'm leaning toward the sprag or low line pressure.
I'm getting a standard rebuild kit (transtar with both bands), pressure sol, tcc sol, o/d sol and gov pressure sensor.
So my question is, are there any other parts I'm missing, that should be replaced when doing a rebuild? (I'm already going to order a sprag- if the sprags the problem, is there something that should be replaced along with it?)
any help is appreciated
Symptoms:
If I try and accelerate hard from a stop on pavement, I get a ridiculous shudder- a very hard, very rapid, grab-release, grab-release, repeated until you let off the gas. If you had sunglasses on the dash board, they would be bouncing around- its that sharp, and hard.
When this trans is in drive-low (first gear of the "D" shift selection), its using the rear clutch and sprag. Its also using the overdrive direct clutch too, technically, but since the direct clutch only engages/disengages when required torque is low (high gear) I don't think its the slipping component. This trans also uses a separate band, or more specifically, the rear band for low and reverse. What I'm going to do (when I get my 242 back in) is shift it into low, and accelerate hard. If the shudder goes away, then I believe the sprag would be the problem- because shifting into low, added the stopping power of the rear band. If the shudder remains, then I think the problem is either a worn rear clutch pack, or insufficient line pressure to it. Since this shudder is so sharp, I'm leaning toward the sprag or low line pressure.
I'm getting a standard rebuild kit (transtar with both bands), pressure sol, tcc sol, o/d sol and gov pressure sensor.
So my question is, are there any other parts I'm missing, that should be replaced when doing a rebuild? (I'm already going to order a sprag- if the sprags the problem, is there something that should be replaced along with it?)
any help is appreciated
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 704
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Iron, MN
Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
Go over to thespeedfreaks.net and get ahold of sainePerf. He specializes in the dodge/jeep transmissions and also builds quality trans. for high HP apps. on the cheap.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
If you have never rebuilt an automatic transmission before, you would be money ahead to have a shop do it for you, or buy a reman. Buy if you feel up to it, make sure the work area is super clean, not cluttered with other junk, and has plenty of room to lay the sub assemblies out. DO NOT use shop rags to wipe down the parts, the lint will clog all of the small passage ways and filter. Use the proper tools and torque specs, and have a detailed diagram of how all ot the assemblies go together. Good luck.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Also, someone forgot to mention, be VERY careful about the first few plates in each clutch pack. Some may be wave-washers or cone shaped. I haven't done the 44RE, but I have done several GM THM 350s and a 700R4. It makes a big difference how you stack those plates on reassembly, very easy to get screwed up after washing and inspecting them by putting them wrong side down.
JUST BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and have fun!
JUST BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and have fun!
Old Skewl CF like a Sir
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 3
From: Fort Myers, FL
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output OBDII
If you have never rebuilt an automatic transmission before, you would be money ahead to have a shop do it for you, or buy a reman. Buy if you feel up to it, make sure the work area is super clean, not cluttered with other junk, and has plenty of room to lay the sub assemblies out. DO NOT use shop rags to wipe down the parts, the lint will clog all of the small passage ways and filter. Use the proper tools and torque specs, and have a detailed diagram of how all ot the assemblies go together. Good luck.
Auto's aren't a joke either. Just take your time, and no spare parts allowed when done.
Thanks to all of you for the input- its been a nightmare trying to get feedback on this post... (admittedly, posted it in several forums, but you guys were basically the only responses I got).
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If you have never rebuilt an automatic transmission before, you would be money ahead to have a shop do it for you, or buy a reman. Buy if you feel up to it, make sure the work area is super clean, not cluttered with other junk, and has plenty of room to lay the sub assemblies out. DO NOT use shop rags to wipe down the parts, the lint will clog all of the small passage ways and filter. Use the proper tools and torque specs, and have a detailed diagram of how all ot the assemblies go together. Good luck.
Also, someone forgot to mention, be VERY careful about the first few plates in each clutch pack. Some may be wave-washers or cone shaped. I haven't done the 44RE, but I have done several GM THM 350s and a 700R4. It makes a big difference how you stack those plates on reassembly, very easy to get screwed up after washing and inspecting them by putting them wrong side down.
JUST BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and have fun!
JUST BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and have fun!
+1,000,000. I rebuilt my AX-5, in addition to all that, you need patience! Some of my hard parts that were damaged I sent out to Trans-Parts in CA, very nice people to work with, walked me through alot of stuff over the phone as far as finding parts, then said just ship us the old one, and we'll match it up. Turn around time was less then a week.
Auto's aren't a joke either. Just take your time, and no spare parts allowed when done.
Auto's aren't a joke either. Just take your time, and no spare parts allowed when done.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Just want to mention this, as long as you're building your own workbench. My brother latched onto a long stainless steel table from a resturant kitchen that is the cat's meow for laying out the parts. You can see metal particles that bleed off the stacks as they drain, and cleanup is a breeze. You sound like an intelligent guy so I know you'll be okay with this job. Just don't cut corners or you will regret it later. This comes from a former drag racer that found out the hard way. Too many busted motors and trannys from cutting corners! Waaah, Bang! Oh ****, what was that?!!
BTW, That 700R4 rebuild was my first solo rebuild. When I got it apart, my first though was "Wait a minite! There's way too many gears in this thing!" Things get very complicated when they start adding things like OD and over-running clutches and stuff. The THM 350 is simple and almost bullet-proof. Don't expect the 44RE to be the same!
BTW, That 700R4 rebuild was my first solo rebuild. When I got it apart, my first though was "Wait a minite! There's way too many gears in this thing!" Things get very complicated when they start adding things like OD and over-running clutches and stuff. The THM 350 is simple and almost bullet-proof. Don't expect the 44RE to be the same!
Last edited by dave1123; Dec 11, 2010 at 03:40 PM.
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