Is there a big difference. I can't remember the brand I got but I ordered it off the Internet and know it's not a Mopar...

 

The Mopar one is a neoprene and steel sandwich that keeps it's shape and is easy to clean off. It also doesn't distort when bolted on and spreads out the pressure evenly on it trans and pan.

 

I finally fixed it...I used an OEM gasket and it stopped it for a few days...However, it started leaking again...then used gasket maker in a tube and it's 99% stopped...still wet around certain bolts though but NOTICEABLY dripping on the ground anymore.

Second leak now...thought that the gasket was causing fluid to run down the underside of the vehicle to the transfer case...WRONG, it specifically has a leak; appears to be coming from the gasket area or bolts.

First tried silicon gasket...failed...tore it off...now trying J.B. welt metal clay stick...mix it in your hands and apply like putty...hard as steel supposedly with up to 300 degrees resistance.

As the pics show, there is still fluid coming from somewhere and it's glistening on the outside of the hardened J.B. weld metal! Any ideas???

This J.B. clay ---> steel stuff isn't "semi-permeable" is it, such that fluid will slowly seep through it? It's either that or I missed the leak obviously right?

Please help.

Also attaching a picture of some line assembly/linkage or something that's missing a small part to secure it...this on the side of the also on the transfer case. Any ideas? There is a "moderate" "cachunking" if I tried to accelerate too fast...guessing that this is because of the leak causing low fluid in the transfer case OR this linkage sometimes coming off...but I haven't troubleshooted yet.

Thanks again gents!

 

My 97 grand has the vacuum hose diagram under the hood, and shows the rear most port on the manifold (4.0) routing to the 'climate control, speed control, 4x4 axle, if equipped'. That being said, I wonder if it isn't a constant vacuum leak if the front axle isn't sealed.

 

I'm a DIYer and not a mechanic...could you explain how a vacuum leak would be causing this leak or perhaps point me to a good online article?

 

I was talking about the routing of the front diff hose. On mine, it's a vacuum hose, not just a vent hose. If the axle is under vacuum, it might leak vacuum if the axle doesn't seal well.

 

Your leak is more likely a shaft seal leaking. Inside the joint between the transmission and the transfer case, there are seals that prevent fluid from either unit from mixing together or leaking out. There is a drain hole in the bottom of the case split for inspection purposes. Also, it looks like the shift cable end bearing has failed.

About the transmission pan. More than likely, the pan was distorted around the bolt holes from overtightening. You'll have to flatten them out again with a hammer and hardwood or steel block under the holes. JMHO.

 

The hose going to your front diff is just an atmospheric vent. There is no vacuum involved. The Vari-Lock differentials available at the time were self contained units that didn't need outside control and were not available for the front axle anyway.

 

That's a huge job, right, would involve special tools, stands, and removing the transfer case from the transmission right? Is that steel putty stuff a good temporary fix? Do you think it would help to put it on the entire circumference of where they meet?

Do you know where could I get the parts for the shift cable and end bearing?

 

My opinion? No, JB Weld is not a good fix. All you're doing it plugging the drain hole allowing the case to fill up with fluid. AND it's going to be a b!tch to remove if it's adhered well.

Yes, it's a big job to remove the transfer case and replace the seals. Are you loosing transmission fluid or t/case fluid? It's probably a good idea to replace both seals while it's apart.

As far as I know, you'll have to replace the shift cable because IDK if you can get just the end.

 

I have an N242 transfer case (Select Trac) which "Haynes" says uses ATF+4 so the intermixing, while not good, isn't as bad as if I were using a transfer case that used a different fluid right?

Now if you're diagnosis is correct, when you say fill up the transfer case...do you mean beyond what it's supposed to be filled up...basically, by completely plugging the leak it could possibly overfill from the leak from the transmission...causing more damage than a minor leak right now?? Assuming you're right of course.

So it's almost better to just let it leak slowly to make sure that it's not too full. It's a 2000 and I'm only trying to get 45k more miles from it (reach 300k) and I figure I'd get my money's worth...then scrap or sell.

 

Aha, I think that I found the answer to the minor shift cable issue...and it should hopefully only cost a few bucks. Here is it is if anyone else was wondering...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...stion-1496127/

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52218_0014.htm

 

I don't see where it's a problem to just drive it keeping an eye on your fluid levels.

Here's what happened to my Dad's Chevy Suburban. It had the THM 350 trans and an NP208 transfer case. When GM started using the New Process t/case, they used an adapter housing between it and the transmission. It did NOT have a drain hole in it. It also used a double-ended internal splined sleeve piece to connect them together. I only mention the coupling because it failed (split) twice.

Dad noticed the transmission low on fluid a couple of times and added to it, then it stopped loosing it. No visible leaks. Then he decided to check his t/case fluid level. He took out the check plug and fluid poured out! It was way overfull. He just put the plug back in after allowing it to stop draining and drove it. Then the transmission started showing low again.

After that coupling split, we took it apart and the adapter housing was completely full of fluid. Do you see what I'm getting at? Both units took Dextron so the intermixing wasn't a problem. So, except for dripping on your driveway, you can just drive it keeping an eye on your levels.

 

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking...the original plan was to replace the transfer case fluid after I fixed the transmission pan leak...but then after fixing leak I realized that it was actually two leaks and there was still the transfer case leak...fml. j/k. Anyways, I'll check the fluid in the transfer case...if it's overfull after all the leaking that's been going on it's surely the problem you think it is...Not worth fixing if I'm planning on scrapping in 45k miles. Plus, since it's always cycling from transmission --> transfer case --> I never have to change in fresh fluid! lol

 

I have a driveway full of fluid from exactly that. I watch the fluid level and watch the driveway get ruined. But, I got a cool idea from my neighbor. Place and old floormat under where you park.