Driver door controls
02-20-2018, 07:01 AM
#1
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Location: South Africa
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Engine: 4.0
Driver door controls
Hi i have a 1998 grand cherokee limited 4.0. I have changed the battery a week ago and now noticed that the battery gets drained somehow. The driver controls on door stopped working but worked after jump starting the car then after a while it stops working again. Passenger door controls works fine. Does the thing need to be reset after changing the battery? Please help?
02-20-2018, 06:14 PM
#2
Old fart with a wrench
Welcome to CF!
More than likely, you have a wire or two broken in the driver's door electrical supply cable, that flexible bundle that connects the door to the body. After years of flexing, the wires break inside their insulation and cause intermittent functioning of the controls. Sometimes a large draw like running the window up or down will spotweld it back together for a while, but not usually. At 230K miles, my WJ has this problem with 3 of the 4 doors and I'm just hoping they will keep working until it gets warm enough to tear them apart. Right now, they work fine as long as they are closed, but if they are more than 1/2 open, the lights go out on my driver's door and nothing works. This all started with the rear passenger's door. The window would go down, but not up! At -15*, I had to take the door panel off and hot-wire the window motor to get it up, then left it disconnected. I didn't have wires long enough to get to the battery, so I used a battery charger to get it done before I froze!
My plan is to get junkyard cables and check them out to make sure they are okay, then swap them in thus eliminating time to find the breaks. Then repairing the originals and keeping them for spares.
Three years ago, my local P&P had one WJ in it and it was a front-end crash victim. Now there are 11 of them in the yard, mostly with engines and front-end sheet metal missing.
I deliver newspapers, so if my driver's window quits, I'm screwed! The weird part is all this started after I had some bodywork done on the door and windshield post because of a fallen tree branch.
More than likely, you have a wire or two broken in the driver's door electrical supply cable, that flexible bundle that connects the door to the body. After years of flexing, the wires break inside their insulation and cause intermittent functioning of the controls. Sometimes a large draw like running the window up or down will spotweld it back together for a while, but not usually. At 230K miles, my WJ has this problem with 3 of the 4 doors and I'm just hoping they will keep working until it gets warm enough to tear them apart. Right now, they work fine as long as they are closed, but if they are more than 1/2 open, the lights go out on my driver's door and nothing works. This all started with the rear passenger's door. The window would go down, but not up! At -15*, I had to take the door panel off and hot-wire the window motor to get it up, then left it disconnected. I didn't have wires long enough to get to the battery, so I used a battery charger to get it done before I froze!
My plan is to get junkyard cables and check them out to make sure they are okay, then swap them in thus eliminating time to find the breaks. Then repairing the originals and keeping them for spares.
Three years ago, my local P&P had one WJ in it and it was a front-end crash victim. Now there are 11 of them in the yard, mostly with engines and front-end sheet metal missing.
I deliver newspapers, so if my driver's window quits, I'm screwed! The weird part is all this started after I had some bodywork done on the door and windshield post because of a fallen tree branch.
Last edited by dave1123; 02-20-2018 at 06:28 PM.
02-21-2018, 09:33 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: South Africa
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Engine: 4.0
Welcome to CF!
More than likely, you have a wire or two broken in the driver's door electrical supply cable, that flexible bundle that connects the door to the body. After years of flexing, the wires break inside their insulation and cause intermittent functioning of the controls. Sometimes a large draw like running the window up or down will spotweld it back together for a while, but not usually. At 230K miles, my WJ has this problem with 3 of the 4 doors and I'm just hoping they will keep working until it gets warm enough to tear them apart. Right now, they work fine as long as they are closed, but if they are more than 1/2 open, the lights go out on my driver's door and nothing works. This all started with the rear passenger's door. The window would go down, but not up! At -15*, I had to take the door panel off and hot-wire the window motor to get it up, then left it disconnected. I didn't have wires long enough to get to the battery, so I used a battery charger to get it done before I froze!
My plan is to get junkyard cables and check them out to make sure they are okay, then swap them in thus eliminating time to find the breaks. Then repairing the originals and keeping them for spares.
Three years ago, my local P&P had one WJ in it and it was a front-end crash victim. Now there are 11 of them in the yard, mostly with engines and front-end sheet metal missing.
I deliver newspapers, so if my driver's window quits, I'm screwed! The weird part is all this started after I had some bodywork done on the door and windshield post because of a fallen tree branch.
More than likely, you have a wire or two broken in the driver's door electrical supply cable, that flexible bundle that connects the door to the body. After years of flexing, the wires break inside their insulation and cause intermittent functioning of the controls. Sometimes a large draw like running the window up or down will spotweld it back together for a while, but not usually. At 230K miles, my WJ has this problem with 3 of the 4 doors and I'm just hoping they will keep working until it gets warm enough to tear them apart. Right now, they work fine as long as they are closed, but if they are more than 1/2 open, the lights go out on my driver's door and nothing works. This all started with the rear passenger's door. The window would go down, but not up! At -15*, I had to take the door panel off and hot-wire the window motor to get it up, then left it disconnected. I didn't have wires long enough to get to the battery, so I used a battery charger to get it done before I froze!
My plan is to get junkyard cables and check them out to make sure they are okay, then swap them in thus eliminating time to find the breaks. Then repairing the originals and keeping them for spares.
Three years ago, my local P&P had one WJ in it and it was a front-end crash victim. Now there are 11 of them in the yard, mostly with engines and front-end sheet metal missing.
I deliver newspapers, so if my driver's window quits, I'm screwed! The weird part is all this started after I had some bodywork done on the door and windshield post because of a fallen tree branch.
Thanks Dave, sorted.
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