Hey guys! Just bought a 99 WJ today for $1700. Select trac 4x4, 177k miles, 4.0. Paint and interior ar pristine, as is the engine bay. bit of oil down each side of the engine, but I assume thats just a leaky valve cover gasket.

Reason I got it so cheap is because it doesnt run atm. The seller said he took it to a mechanic and was told it was the fuel pump. If you turn on the key and wait a few seconds, it will crank and run for a couple seconds. We towed it home with the key on the whole time(about 5 miles) and when we got home, it cranked and ran for about 20 seconds before dying. Does this sound like the fuel pump to you guys? I thought I heard it come on though when i turn the key.

Second issue is there seems to be some fluid dripping onto the header at the back of the engine compartment, causing it to smoke a bit when it ran. It smelled like coolant to me, and when I watched it drip, it looked too thin to be oil. Are there any coolant lines back there that could be leaking down? Another indicator, atleast for me, is the fact that the overhead console shows a low coolant warning.(but when I took the rad cap off, it seemed full?)

Pics below. How did I do for $1700?

 

You did good for the money. It sounds like it is in theft mode, it shuts the fuel pump off after the initial prime. You can check to see if the theft mode is enabled with a scan tool. You may also have a core plug (freeze plug) that is leaking, there is one at the rear of the cylinder head. Even if you put a thousand bucks into this thing to get it all sorted out you're still doing good for the money.

 

Hey busted buck. Yea, we kinda just stopped after seeing it on the way home from selling a 2wd tacoma, and couldnt pass up a deal like this, considering the condition, and the fact we had a pocket full of money haha. Properly running jeeps like this are selling around here for about 3500-4k, similar miles.

I went out a minute ago and checked for codes with the on/offx3 key switch. Display flashed the p0320 code, which I understand to be a CPS code. Could that be the culprit? Also, how do I check for the theft mode with a scan tool? I have access to a really nice snap on scanner at school I can check it with.

 

Just navigate with the scanner and you will find the prompt with theft fuel enabled. You may have a cam sensor issue too, but you should check the wiring for that circuit before you just throw a new sensor at it.

 

Just to put your purchase into proper perspective, I purchased a 2000 WJ basic Laredo 4.0, Selectrac, non-tow package cream puff almost 2 years ago for $4200. No major issues with it yet. It's the most trouble-free used car I've ever bought yet.

 

Update:

Today we had our neighbor(who has opened a 4x4 shop next door, mostly full size chevys with 15+'' lift, but seems to know alot about jeeps) come over and take a look at the WJ. After looking at it for a minute or so, and hearing it run, he was sure the fuel pump was working correctly. Then he went under the jeep and fiddled with the wire loom for a minute. We then were able to start the jeep and it ran fine until we cut it off a couple minutes later. Ive started it several times since, with no problems. He seems to figure I just have/had a loose connection on the CPS, and thinks messing with the wire loom pushed it on, either that or I had a frayed wire shorting out. Told me to try driving over some bumps and see if I had any problems.

BUT, we still have the problem of coolant leaking onto the header at the back of the engine. He went under the jeep, and at first said it looked like a head gasket leak, since he could see all 4 freeze plugs, and they looked shiny like they had recently been replaced, and the leak appeared to be around the head gasket. However then we looked around the front, and saw where the water pump was leaking. You could then see where the coolant was running down the edge of the oil pan, and dripping onto the header. So now we are thinking the only problem is the water pump. Picked up a new one from advance tonight for $65, and plan to replace tomorrow. It came with a gasket, and I also got a tube of water pump RTV silicone.


On the upside, I was able to drive the wj for the first time today, and everything seems to work great, apart from the temp gauge slowly rising to around 210 before I decided to cut it off. 4x4 works, 4lo engages and disengages smoothly. So fingers crossed, Ill replace the water pump and be able to drive it this weekend.

On the other hand, my overhead console shows an avg of 18.5mpg, which makes me pretty happy, if its correct.

 

The normal operating temp is 210 degrees, so don't worry about that. You may want to change the thermostat and radiator cap while you're doing the water pump, new hoses would be good too. Stick with a 195 degree thermostat, you will gain nothing by installing a lower rated t-stat.

 

I'd just like to add my 2 cents. Buy a premium water pump with a metal impeller, not plastic. When you get it apart, you will see the impeller spins no more than 1/16" from the #1 cylinder barrel. Any looseness in the shaft bearing can allow the impeller to strike the barrel and shatter.

Also, make sure the one you buy is for the serpentine belt. The one for v-belts runs in the opposite direction.

 

Nice WJ! I recently(last week) bought a black 99 for $2300. Same specs as yours but with 166K and leather seats.
It needs gaskets replaced but otherwise runs and drives great! Just replaced the valve cover gasket. I love the ride quality, especially over the 97 cherokee I owned before this. Last fill-up I averaged 19.1mpg and the EVIC(overhead console) stated 19.6.
Happy Jeeping!

 

Yes, that's one think I did notice about my WJ. Ride quality is much better than my 97 ZJ was. This seems more solidly connected with the road without being harsh. When you hit a bump or pothole, you only feel it on those two wheels and it doesn't pitch the whole body.

 

Update: Jeep has been running for 2 days now. We tried to replace the cps(cose p0320 on the odom) but were unable to even get the connector apart lol. After messing with it for about an hour, we cranked her up and drove around for about 10 minutes. Then that night I drove it for a couple hours, around town. No stalls yet.(crosses fingers) My only guess is maybe our messing with the connector did something to fix it lol.

However, I'm now facing a new problem. The electric radiator fan will not come on, almost causing me to overheat the first night it started running correctly(left it idling in the yard, peeked in about 5 minutes later and she was pushing 250, but we quickly cut it off) Honestly didnt know there was a problem. Tried hooking 12v to the fan, but it didnt run. On the other hand, we started the wj and let the temp get to about 220, yet there was no voltage coming to the fan connector. What are the chances of having a bad fan, and a bad fan relay at the same time? Checked the fuse in under the hood.