Belt could be slipping. That would cause a chirp or a squeak. Probably needs to be replaced. Keep the old for a spare....could save you some time.

 

Checked the belt...seems to be tight...all pullies appear to be lined up. Squalking noise is more pronounced when engine is hot. How do you know what auto trans is in my 93 zj?....seems like first half of 93 they used one then went to a different trans starting in the later part of 93. My windshield wiper now works in med and high although it will not park wipers properly. As for the rear, my washer now works, wiper motor doesn't.
Dave

 

Congrats on the pickup... sounds like u are getting everything handled.. Keep us updated!

 

Removed all wheels and blocked her up....started doing some checking and found a few small holes underneath, front left lower suspension arm eaten away by rust near the bushing and the bracket that bolts to the left lower suspension arm cracked near on a weld although the rest of the bracket welds look ok. In addition brake likes are rusted pretty good and needs a good brake job. Does this sound like a typical thing for that year?
Dave

 

In '93 only the ZJ used the AW4 trans. If it was switched late in the '93 production run, on the 4.0L it would have either the 42RE or 42RH model trans. My manual doesn't show this change though. Check the rear wiper fuse, and power at the plug. You may need to replace the wiper motor. IMO
That corrosion may be common for a rust-belt ZJ but in Tenn. I haven't seen it on any ZJ I've looked at, whether they're for sale or in the salvage yard.
Dan

 

As Ol'Blue mentioned only the early 93 4.0L ZJ's had a different trans, later production used a 42re.

Easy way to ID which trans you have is to look for the 1-2 shift position which would indicate the AW-4.

 

Sounds like a mouse nest to me..
Sounds like your getting it fixed up tho nice work!

 

I must have a Aw4 as it does have 1-2 selection on the shifter. Which trans is better Aw4 or 42re? Where is the 4.0 most prone for leaks? Looked underneath and the whole engine is covered with greasy oil including the starter.
Dave

 

Wonder if I should replace all of my metal brake lines as they look a tad rusty...is there any way to tell if a metal line is bad and should be replaced.
Dave

 

Its been a while but am just about ready to tackle her. My list of things to contend with is the following while on the stands. Working from back to front.

First:

Rear diff plate remove, clean, install then fill with 80w90 syn gear lube.
New wheel cyls,spring kit, shoes and new drums.
Replace steel brake lines, front to back
Replace rear sway bar links and shocks
Adjust rear brakes and bleed

Front:
Replace calipers, pads and rotors
Replace sway bar links and lower control arms
Repair cracked weld on pass side lower control arm bracket
Replace sheet metal near lower control arm bracket
Replace sheet metal on drv side floorboard
Replace front shocks

Engine:
Remove oil pan, replace rear seal
Install high volume oil pump and screen
Replace front seal and timing cover gasket
If needed replace timing gear set
Remove valve cover, clean and replace gasket
Check oil filter adapter o-ring, replace if nessessary

Repair electrical issues and hvac system

That is all so-far. All I want to do is get her ready for the winter, next year is body work under plastic panels. seems like every time I touch the side a bunch of rust crud drops on the ground...I keep saying to myself "What have I got myself into?" Sound familiar?

Dave