4wd not engaging and grinding
I have a 2001 WJ with selec-trac 4wd. I was driving in a blizzard yesterday and when I went to engage my jeep from 4-part time to 4-hi it made an insane grinding noise when I would press the gas pedal and it would not move at all. Now it does not move at all while while engaged in any 4wd and still makes a really loud grinding noise. When it is in 2wd, it moves fine but i can still here like a clicking/grinding when it is moving, although nowhere near as bad as when it is in 4. anyone know what is going on here and how to fix it?
thanks!
thanks!
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
This forum is more geared to the Cherokee XJ's, but it does sound like your transfer case linkage may be out of alignment;
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/how-to...-in-4wd-397794
Are you feeling firm engagement from the transfer case when you shift? It might be harder to tell with the engine running, but you should get a firm "click" from the actual transfer case when you switch from 2 to 4wd modes. Any grinding in 4-LO?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/how-to...-in-4wd-397794
Are you feeling firm engagement from the transfer case when you shift? It might be harder to tell with the engine running, but you should get a firm "click" from the actual transfer case when you switch from 2 to 4wd modes. Any grinding in 4-LO?
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 741
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Your 2001 242 is shifted by cable, not linkage like the older models. Internally, it's the same. I'd have to agree it's a shift fork problem.
On the shift forks, there are nylon wear pads, some people call then "slippers", that get hard, crack, and fall off. These are not expensive or hard to replace, BUT the case has to come apart to do it. Because of the added gear selections, the actual gear movement is small, requiring positive shift positioning. Without these wear pads, the slider gear is allowed to "drift" and not locate properly.
Try this; with the vehicle stopped and in neutral, slam the t/case shifter forward hard against the stop into 2wd. Then drive it and see if it still makes noise. This is a stop-gap measure that might allow you to drive it until you can figure out what you're going to do. SOMEWHERE there is a Youtube video showing how to replace these wear pads.
I do not agree with that forum link that was posted. There is some conflicting information in it.
On the shift forks, there are nylon wear pads, some people call then "slippers", that get hard, crack, and fall off. These are not expensive or hard to replace, BUT the case has to come apart to do it. Because of the added gear selections, the actual gear movement is small, requiring positive shift positioning. Without these wear pads, the slider gear is allowed to "drift" and not locate properly.
Try this; with the vehicle stopped and in neutral, slam the t/case shifter forward hard against the stop into 2wd. Then drive it and see if it still makes noise. This is a stop-gap measure that might allow you to drive it until you can figure out what you're going to do. SOMEWHERE there is a Youtube video showing how to replace these wear pads.
I do not agree with that forum link that was posted. There is some conflicting information in it.
Last edited by dave1123; Mar 25, 2016 at 12:30 PM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Year: 2003
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Your 2001 242 is shifted by cable, not linkage like the older models. Internally, it's the same. I'd have to agree it's a shift fork problem. On the shift forks, there are nylon wear pads, some people call then "slippers", that get hard, crack, and fall off. These are not expensive or hard to replace, BUT the case has to come apart to do it. Because of the added gear selections, the actual gear movement is small, requiring positive shift positioning. Without these wear pads, the slider gear is allowed to "drift" and not locate properly. Try this; with the vehicle stopped and in neutral, slam the t/case shifter forward hard against the stop into 2wd. Then drive it and see if it still makes noise. This is a stop-gap measure that might allow you to drive it until you can figure out what you're going to do. SOMEWHERE there is a Youtube video showing how to replace these wear pads. I do not agree with that forum link that was posted. There is some conflicting information in it.
OP, there's a flux Capacitor in the transfer doohickey that seems to be causing your issue.
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