outofrng623

Sounds like that constant shorting and popping fuses is what melted the bunch of wires. I don't see how the brake switch itself could short anything out. It's got to be from the switch to the lights. Check for continuity between the body or a ground to the positive brake wire in the back. If either side shows continuity then you narrowed it down to one side. If both do, then it's going to be close to the brake switch up front. Also. Thinking about what's most likely to break, maybe the high mount light is the issue. The harness to the lift gate may be breaking. I can send you a 2004 wiring diagram if you think it may help you.

KSimmons

I the 2004 wiring diagram would be useful for the 2001 I'd really appreciate it. I think I spoke too quickly thinking I found the problem :/

I checked where I patched the wires underneath the driving column as well as where the tail lights are at and I don't see any bad wires. I haven't looked above at the high mount, I'll have to check it out on my lunch.

I'll try checking for continuity and see where that gets me.

outofrng623

Should be very close if not identical. If you want to rule out the switch, just remove the switch and jump the wires. I'll post the wiring when I'm back home. My money is on the harness for the lift gate. Have you looked at that bulb/socket to see how bad that looks?

KSimmons

I'm guessing you're talking about the small brake light above the rear window? I replaced it when I replaced the tail lights last week and it was all smokey and black. But I don't remember thinking the wires looked all that bad. I'll check again this evening.

What exactly are you talking about with regards to the positive brake wires in the back? I'm guessing I would put my multi-meter on the "soundwave" to check for continuity then to I test on probe on the wire and the other on the body of the Jeep? I'm just a little confused here.

dave1123

The wires may be shorted in the flexible part where they go thru the hatch or body.

outofrng623

Agreed. When I said harness, that's what I meant. As for the testing. If there is something shorting it would be that the wire that goes from the brake light switch to the brake light is touching the body or another ground somewhere. When the switch is engaged, it allows the positive current to flow to the light. That being said. If you take a voltmeter with a continuity tester (it tests to see if an electrical path can be made between point a and point b)...and if you touch the switch wire with one probe and the body with the other...there should NOT be a path. If there is a path, then there is a short. If things were right, you should only have a path between that switch wire and the connector at the brake lights. Hope I explained that well enough.

KSimmons

So I opened the back gate and took a look at the wires bundled in there. The white/orange stripe wire had a crack in it all the way around and there was a small amount of the metal wire showing. This would be a problem correct?

Would I just patch it up with electrical tape or do I need to replace the wire somewhere?

outofrng623

White/orange or white/tan? I only ask because I want to be sure what youre looking at when I look at the diagram. You are taking about in the boot between the body and the lift gate, right?
Either way, its not good. How much was missing? Is it somewhere where it could've hit a ground? Any other wires look bad? Be warned, Jeep wires are known to break inside with no indication at the insulation.

outofrng623

Also, I just looked at the rear defog and rear lock wiring and I do not see anything that's orange/white. Cant think of any other wires that would be in there...So, it's probably white/tan. So...again, yes could be a problem. Electrical tape is fine. Just look for other issues...Make sure they are in the grommet, not rubbing on the body, etc
That one exposed wire...if it doesn't look like it could be hitting anything, is not going to be the fix your problem.

KSimmons

Yes tan would be the color, white and tan. I suppose it could be hitting ground it was a small tear in the insulation but enough was showing that it quickly caught my eye and I guess I'd have to go back and look but it might be right around where the bundle of wire are coming out from the body of the vehicle.

And just for clarification I pulled the rubber protector tubing out that was dead center of the back hatch. Most if not all the wires in this bundle looks like the same (color wise) as the ones I encountered when working with the brake switch.

And with regards to finding continuity if I touch the wire from my brake switch to the brake lights and find that it is shorted somewhere I don't really know where right? I just have to inspect this wire from front to back?

outofrng623

Without seeing where the missing insulation was, I can only make guesses..so, there should be a rubber grommet that protects the wiring from the body...
The brake switch wire going towards the back should be violet and tan and then split into white and tans...that go to each brake light. If you want to bypass the brake switch, just for giggles and to rule it out, you would take out the switch and then put a jumper wire from the pink/dark blue to the violet/tan wires. If you pop a fuse, it's not your brake switch.
Check all of your bulb sockets. If they look melted, make sure that the contacts would not be touching a ground. Id be curious...Pull out all three brake light assemblies, remove all the bulbs, put in a fuse, hit the brake...See if you pop. If not, put in one bulb at a time, put it in place and test. When you pop (if) you have at least found which socket is bad, if it is a socket. That's if its at the assembly. If it pops with no bulbs or sockets in place, then the failure is in the wiring.
Your last part. The idea is to see if a positive (brake light switch wire) is hitting a negative somewhere. You should have continuity between the switch wire and brake assembly positive...but, not the negative ground. My idea is to test the positive after the switch like above, but...to the body. The idea there is that the positive is touching a ground somewhere. If you have continuity in that circumstance, theres a short somewhere. From there. This is where is gets tricky. I would test for resistance/ohms. Again, at the brake light switch feed...Test ohms at different parts of the body. Higher ohms means more resistance, means you are further away from the short. I really cant say though how much of a difference there may be between being right on top of the short versus being furthest away, but there some variance, at least logically.
I know that's a lot to take in. Hope I explained it well.

KSimmons

Thank you guys so much! From the bottom of my heart I'm elated to get this project finished. It was the wires between the body and gate. Patched them up and boom brake lights that work. I really really really appreciate all your help. There honestly was no way I could have done this without it.

dave1123

It gives us a warm fuzzy feeling to have helped. At least if does for me!

outofrng623

So glad to hear. Awesome.