Lonewolf92c

Howdy All!!

I need some help. I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee I purchased used 18 months ago or so. I have developed a low speed front end wobble (when coasting at 40-45 MPH)...it gets pretty significant sometimes.
I can sometimes speed up and come out of it, or hit the brakes and it stops. Once above 50 mph or so it stops. Used to have a little wobble/shimmy when putting gentle pressure on brakes as well which I attributed to warped rotor(s).

Had front end aligned 2 weeks ago and they reported no loose front end parts.
Just put on new rotors and brake pads this past Saturday...no fix!

**UPDATE** when I changed brakes/rotors I did rotate tires as well. It is definitely in the front end, between 40-50 MPH and worst at 45 MPH. Also, both CV axles have been changed in the last year.

I did a search, bit did not find an answer. Not really "high speed death wobble" some report, so looking or some guidance.

Threads? Ideas? Suggestions for solution?

Thanks in advance all!

Semper Fi!
Bill P.

Lonewolf92c

When I did brakes/rotors, I rotated tires as well. Thanks in advance for any help!

dave1123

Check your wheel hub bearings and lower ball joints.

andrewmp6

Rotate your tires see if you still have it or has it moved to the rear.

dave1123

He already did that. Post #2

lakesideguy

I have the same EXACT problem as you do and I have a 99 GC 4.0 Laredo.
I replaced the front rotors, pads,callipers and brackets. A complete overhaul.
And anything over like 30-40 a violent shaking occurs when braking and it doesn't even need to be hard pedal pushing.

I will say I also replaced the steering stabilizer someone told me that .
That wasn't it.

But I just got off the phone with a VERY experience mechanic.
Said if you got play in the tie rod or suspension anywhere it can cause that.
He said wheel bearing too. But he said this...........

1) jack car up and put your hands on the tire at 3 and 9 oclock. HE said give it a good shake on the tire and wheel. He said you will need someone to look at the tie rod, pitman arm when you are doing this BTW. If they move at all when you do that he said it's the steering linkage on that side of the car causing the shake on brake. Get it? Shake and Brake. And I help.

2) Do it again at 12 and 6 oclock. If there is play (not linkage) if there is play in the wheel and tire at all its the wheel bearing doing it.

But, he also suggested this is a simple quick check you can do by looking at the steering linkage while shaking the tire and wheel at 3 and 9. He said jack it up if either move you know what it is.

He explained how loose steering components can cause that in ANY car not just a jeep. But, he said for peace of mind you can also CHECK the rotors and so forth again.

My car does have play in the front left. I feel it on the highway. And ironically the shake happens at around 40 plus and feels like it comes from that same side as the play. So, 2+2 probably equals four here. And I'm going to do this shake test myself. It's a good jerking you'll need to do when you do this from left to right at 3 and 9. Not so hard you knock the car off jacks and break your back! lol. But someone needs to be viewing the steering linkage for movement. If not maybe its the wheel bearing then.

But I'm not taking my wheel off again for the brakes when the rotor wear looked fine and I noticed zero coloration, no visible sign of any new part failure. I wont even bother doing it until the play in my front left is gone. IF it still does it after that it is corrected then Ill pull it off.

But the mechanic said if it stiill happens after that (and he doubts it will) he said pull the callipers back off for inspection look for any bluish coloration. Said the new rotors could have gotten warped as well and take BOTH of them to be turned and checked. He said it's going to be one of the two and he said even a new part can cause warp rotor. But, said since there is even a little play in the front end dont bother with it UNTIL the steering is operating at 100 percent efficiency. Then move toward the brakes again for diagnosis unless you just want to have the rotors checked. The one that is warped is the bad calliper. But Im not wasting my time even doing it. A visible inspect on rotor it looked ok and looking at pad wear was fine.

Im leaning money it's the play in my front left steering. Which , ironically, is where the violent shake is occuring after braking after 40mph.

Hope my issue helps this issue.
I will post back when I find out what it was.
But it most certainly wasn't the steering stabilizer. BUT, he also said it could be those too. He said careful diagnosis is key. And he said the PLAY i got in steereing that I feel at high speed is most likely the culprit.

That test is simple. Go over 55 MPH on the freeway. Give some short left and right steering jerks (left and right movement a few inches on the steering). Does the feel of the left and right "tightness" feel equal? Mine did not. The left feels like the wheel might fly off its loose as heck. The right motion of steering (clockwise a few inches quickly) felt tight as **** in cold weather.

So, I think the problem is going to be either the tie rod or pitman arm on the left side. Now to do the TIRE WHEEL shake he said to see if that turns up true. Ill let you know what happens. But this is a very experienced mechanic of over 40 years and owned a Goodyear franchise store. He knows his crap. He know just sells parts to auto stores and know parts real well. His laying money down its my steering component (pitman arm or tie rod end) that causing it since there's some play I feel at high speed as well.
He said it will do it when braking if conditions are right.

lakesideguy

I have the same EXACT problem as you do and I have a 99 GC 4.0 Laredo.
I replaced the front rotors, pads,callipers and brackets. A complete overhaul.
And anything over like 30-40 a violent shaking occurs when braking and it doesn't even need to be hard pedal pushing.

I will say I also replaced the steering stabilizer someone told me that .
That wasn't it.

But I just got off the phone with a VERY experience mechanic.
Said if you got play in the tie rod or suspension anywhere it can cause that.
He said wheel bearing too. But he said this...........

1) jack car up and put your hands on the tire at 3 and 9 oclock. HE said give it a good shake on the tire and wheel. He said you will need someone to look at the tie rod, pitman arm when you are doing this BTW. If they move at all when you do that he said it's the steering linkage on that side of the car causing the shake on brake. Get it? Shake and Brake. And I help.

2) Do it again at 12 and 6 oclock. If there is play (not linkage) if there is play in the wheel and tire at all its the wheel bearing doing it.

But, he also suggested this is a simple quick check you can do by looking at the steering linkage while shaking the tire and wheel at 3 and 9. He said jack it up if either move you know what it is.

He explained how loose steering components can cause that in ANY car not just a jeep. But, he said for peace of mind you can also CHECK the rotors and so forth again.

My car does have play in the front left. I feel it on the highway. And ironically the shake happens at around 40 plus and feels like it comes from that same side as the play. So, 2+2 probably equals four here. And I'm going to do this shake test myself. It's a good jerking you'll need to do when you do this from left to right at 3 and 9. Not so hard you knock the car off jacks and break your back! lol. But someone needs to be viewing the steering linkage for movement. If not maybe its the wheel bearing then.

But I'm not taking my wheel off again for the brakes when the rotor wear looked fine and I noticed zero coloration, no visible sign of any new part failure. I wont even bother doing it until the play in my front left is gone. IF it still does it after that it is corrected then Ill pull it off.

But the mechanic said if it stiill happens after that (and he doubts it will) he said pull the callipers back off for inspection look for any bluish coloration. Said the new rotors could have gotten warped as well and take BOTH of them to be turned and checked. He said it's going to be one of the two and he said even a new part can cause warp rotor. But, said since there is even a little play in the front end dont bother with it UNTIL the steering is operating at 100 percent efficiency. Then move toward the brakes again for diagnosis unless you just want to have the rotors checked. The one that is warped is the bad calliper. But Im not wasting my time even doing it. A visible inspect on rotor it looked ok and looking at pad wear was fine.

Im leaning money it's the play in my front left steering. Which , ironically, is where the violent shake is occuring after braking after 40mph.

Hope my issue helps this issue.
I will post back when I find out what it was.
But it most certainly wasn't the steering stabilizer. BUT, he also said it could be those too. He said careful diagnosis is key. And he said the PLAY i got in steereing that I feel at high speed is most likely the culprit.

That test is simple. Go over 55 MPH on the freeway. Give some short left and right steering jerks (left and right movement a few inches on the steering). Does the feel of the left and right "tightness" feel equal? Mine did not. The left feels like the wheel might fly off its loose as heck. The right motion of steering (clockwise a few inches quickly) felt tight as **** in cold weather.

So, I think the problem is going to be either the tie rod or pitman arm on the left side. Now to do the TIRE WHEEL shake he said to see if that turns up true. Ill let you know what happens. But this is a very experienced mechanic of over 40 years and owned a Goodyear franchise store. He knows his crap. He know just sells parts to auto stores and know parts real well. His laying money down its my steering component (pitman arm or tie rod end) that causing it since there's some play I feel at high speed as well.
He said it will do it when braking if conditions are right.

crowe81

I have a xj, and recently put a lift kit in with t-drop... At first it was all good. After a week or so, and a few hrs of trail riding... I started noticing a shake over bridges and dips on the highway. With in the next week, 60 was my max speed... Death wobble... BAD! So, I purchased some different rims and so it became 55 was my new max speed... I was ASE Certified before joining the military serval years ago. So I ain't shy about sliding under a car or popping a hood lol I checked for play with the wheels off the ground, nothing... Had my gf yank the steering wheel with the jeep on, but not running and still couldn't find the play or movement... After doing some homework on these creatures hehe I purchased some skyjacker lower control arms and adjusted the gearbox a bit! Problem solved! The bushing didn't look bad enough to replace. Although I did have a good bit of play removed from the adjustments. Hope this helps you or others and good luck