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I called a few tire shops to get some opinions from them and after explaining my setup, needs, and history, one guy told me my unhappiness with the ride quality is no surprise as the ST-MAXX is a terrible tire for such a "light" vehicle as would any 10-ply rated tire (load range E). Hopefully nobody else makes that same mistake. Based on factory specifications of my current wheel and tire setup, the dead weight (excluding pressurized air) should be about 79lbs each. I just weighed one of them and it came in at 72.5lbs. Either a few 32nds of tread wear is heavy or the manufacturer specs are a bit off.
I'm also reminded of one of my previous comments that takes the 31s off my list:
Originally Posted by WillyXJ
So I found the 3.73 gearing was right on the line between just right and too high so I decided to take them back and have 4.10s put in. The big reason is I do plan to go with 32-inch tires and the 3.73s would be a bit high. However, now that I've had both, if I were to stick with 31s, I would not go with the 4.10s.
Top choice and recommendation is the Duratrac which also currently has a rebate. I'm waiting on some funds before purchasing.
In addition, I'm also considering replacing the BDS springs and RC shocks with OME for a better ride and a bit more support in the rear for when I'm towing and/or loaded up for a trip. Since the bigger springs were already installed when I bought the XJ, I didn't think anything of it. But, after years later and a bunch of research, I've learned the BDS springs have a pretty high spring rate (240lbs) over stock (147lbs). They might need that kind of spring rate for taller lifts and/or more weight hanging off the front, but I have neither of those so a softer spring is probably in my future. Interestingly, I'm currently sitting at a 2.75" lift over stock using this method:
Originally Posted by 96_xj
a definitive way to measure is from the top of axle tube(no steering linkage or anything but the actual tube) to the bottom of the frame rail(again nothing but the frame rail).
I needed more power options in the rear and thought the ash tray should be replaced. I checked out GCT Enterprises 3D-printed offerings on shapeways.com and came across a potential solution -- 97-01 Rear Ash Tray 2x Contura. But, I really needed a 12v socket so I contacted him and he made up a custom bezel for me. This uses a 12v socket and Toyota mini dual USB ports.
I ended up talking with Dirk over at DPG Offroad about my suspension and needs. He definitely recommended OME springs and shocks so I purchased the 3.5" leaf springs and then got soft JK coils for the front (OME 2642).
Dirk couldn't tell me how much lift gain I'd net with the JK springs given a different application so I took a chance on them. I'm now measuring 3.5" in the rear and 4" in the front. It's a bit more than I wanted in the front, but the ride quality has drastically improved. In retrospect, I should've bought the 4.5" leafs which can be lowered to 3.5" if need be. While I was at it, I had to put 8-degree shims in the rear to correct my pinion angle. When I first installed the SYE and driveshaft, I had the pinion angle set. I didn't realize it until recently that the angle changed once I put in the belly pan which raised the transfer case up an inch. While putting in the coils springs, I checked the front pinion angle and it was off along with the caster and wheelbase. After some control arm adjustments, they're all in spec now, too.
I have not replaced the shocks yet as I need to relocate the rear mounts since they are quite a bit off which makes one short, one long, and both are hard on the bushings. I'm sure the ride quality will improve some more once I replace the RC shocks with OME.
Wow, I just read through the thread and love your attention to detail! And it's great to see even 7 years on, and after getting into a Land Cruiser, you're still sticking with an XJ. Can't wait to see your next steps.
The manual trans and Colorado living are so choice too.
My wife and I took a road trip out to Yosemite National Park and back with some friends earlier this Summer. We stopped at several other places along the way and had a nice time camping and putting the XJ build to use.
There were parts of the trip that were hot and the worst was going through Death Valley. We knew it would be hot so we made arrangements not to camp, but rather drive through the park and stay overnight in Ridgecrest. Once we started uphill from -131ft in the late afternoon, that's when the electric fan quit working and the engine starting running hot. We opted to pull over until the sun went down for "cooler" air and then drove to Ridgecrest. The next morning, I was going to pick up a fan from the local Autozone, but the e-fan was working again. So, we decided to continue our journey as we were. That was a bad idea. The fan quit working later that day except this time the nearest auto parts store with a fan in stock was an hour out of the way. We split the team up to have the XJ go to the next camp and the other vehicle to the auto parts store.
I made the camp-side repair which took much longer than it should have, but that's what happens when you buy aftermarket equipment that isn't designed the same way as OEM. In fact, even though the Dorman/Duralast (620-001) fan does the job, I don't like it. The fan is so unbalanced that the floorboard vibrates every time the fan runs. I picked up an OEM fan from the junkyard when we got home, but promptly returned it as it didn't spin as fast as my intermittent one. I may try a Crown Automotive (52028337AC) fan later to see if it's any better.
At any rate, it was a great trip with great scenery!
Upon returning home, I took ***** to get an alignment done as it was pulling right. Firestone said they couldn't align it because the ball joints were bad and I confirmed it at home. Well, if the ball joints are bad, now would be the right time to add some inner-C gussets. And if I'm doing that welding and then painting, I might as well use this time to add a truss.
And if I'm welding near the inner axle seals, I might as well replace them post-weld. And if I'm pulling the differential to replace the seals, I might as well slip in a Truetrac Limit Slip.
It's been on my build list to go with an e-locker up front, but prices have gone up (like everything else). I'm also constantly evaluating the build and our needs and have determined that we simply don't need a full locker up front for this particular vehicle and our wheeling style. So, LSD it is.
After removing the axle and putting it on the workbench, I had a hard time getting the track bar off so I let it be. As it turned out, it was quite helpful to use in different positions to keep the axle balanced where I needed it for welding. I opted for the Artec Industries truss as its design seemed like the best and it also allowed me to reuse the factory passenger UCA mount (cut to length) so I can use OEM rubber bushings for a smoother ride.
I liked the design of the Barnes 4WD inner-C gussets better than any of the others as they don't create any clearance problems.
The Teraflex heavy duty ball joints were selected as the lowers allow you to set the preload. This means that anytime they start getting loose they can be tightened up. They also come with a lifetime warranty so I should never have to buy ball joints again.
With these axle-strengthening products installed, my worries of bending the axle housing with my heavy load on trails should now be at bay. Time to hit the trail and see how that LSD does.
Oh, and since you know I need to relocate those rear shock mounts, I think you know what might happen back there...
More parts and another month came so it was time to make some changes to the rear axle.
First, we pull the axle and cut off the shock mounts.
Then we modify the shock mounts.
Weld the modified mounts and truss on. Wrap it up and let it cool indoors instead of the cold garage.
While the axle housing is out, we might as well add an OX locker. I had some issues setting the backlash and found out the differential was hitting the axle housing. A little grinding took care of that and .006" was achieved.
Time for paint and relocating the hard brake lines.
I bought the 36-inch cable for the locker along with the electric actuator, but I was having some problems finding a mounting location. Thanks to @Very Red XJ I was advised to get the 48-inch cable. I chose to mount the actuator on the frame rail. We'll try this location and if it needs to be reinforced then I'll weld a small tab to the frame rail to support the lower mounting holes.
Now that the shock mounts have been relocated to adjust their angles and clearance, it was time to buy some new shocks. Because I relocated the rear axle shock mounts, I bought the OME 60052L for the front and OME 60053 for the rear.
Like seeing your progress, it is inspiring me to keep chugging along on my project. Awesome build!!!!
Thanks for the note. Keep at it and you’ll eventually get your project done the way you envision it. I, like most people, can’t do a whole build in a few month’s time. Plus it’s fun to poke at every once in a while.
Well, I dun gone and done it. The XJ now has a 4.6L stroker installed. I didn't have the space so I drove cross-country to my parents' to perform the swap and then drove cross-country home.
01-10-2021, 04:39 PM
