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Thanks for that information as well I failed to check those vent outputs. Good to know I will check today when I get home from work and let you know. I don't have CC so that is something I can rule out.
Depending on your gear ratio you should be okay for traveling but I understand if your trying to save MPG.
The truck came with 3.73 gears, not sure how that would make a difference with larger tires...
I can't explain that either. I just know that from word of mouth gearing is crucial to the size of tires you want to run. Whether or not that changes your MPG I'm not sure. Typically going up in tire size will decrease your MPG due to the rotation changes of tires "hence larger tire diameter to turn vs. old". I don't have the break down really to explain so I will leave that to the experts.
See chart below, which has been shown a few times on this site may help answer some of your concerns.
Numerically higher gears, with the same size tires, compared to numerically lower gears will result in less wheel rotations per engine rotation, this means the engine is under less stress (less throttle is required) per wheel rotation, however in order to achieve the same wheel RPM's and subsequently vehicle speed, more engine rotations will be required. Additionally the lower gears (numerically higher) will produce more torque at the wheels given the same engine RPM as the higher gears.
This increase in torque is needed to compensate for the taller (and heavier) tires, by installing lower gears you bring the ratio of [gear ratio/ tire size] back closer to the factory installed system, this means you will have a more factory-like handling vehicle, in terms of torque. However you will have higher engine RPM's at a given speed versus factory. By installing a lower gear ratio you get more torque, which means less fuel is needed to accelerate which helps your MPG's but you also get a higher cruising RPM which hurts your MPG's, that is what the chart posted by Irish is showing in the colored portion.
Thanks for the explanation, I follow you. The truck has 30s now with the 3.73 gears and it has great acceleration, and honestly the rpms at cruise speed (60-65 mph) are around 23-2500. So if I put larger tires on (32s), I'm going to lose torque but reduce highway rpm. Seems like an ok tradeoff for me right now. Plus later this summer I'm building a mini-stroker which will boost the numbers to 262hp @ 5200rpm, 302lbft @ 3750rpm, so I may have to revisit the gearing question again.
And I JUST bought a $40 gear to correct the speedo!
I can't explain that either. I just know that from word of mouth gearing is crucial to the size of tires you want to run. Whether or not that changes your MPG I'm not sure. Typically going up in tire size will decrease your MPG due to the rotation changes of tires "hence larger tire diameter to turn vs. old". I don't have the break down really to explain so I will leave that to the experts.
See chart below, which has been shown a few times on this site may help answer some of your concerns.
Hey there, here's another update on the progress...
First off, heres a pic of the lift, with the front Smittybilt bumper and winch installed. PIAA fogs too.
I have 32" Falken Wildpeak AT3W coming from Discount Tire, to be mounted on Pro Comp black D rims. Someone in the past started trimming the fenders (and actually did a good job), so the Napier V2 fender installation will happen this weekend. Maybe the Smittybilt rockers too if I'm in the mood.
Learned a lot about suspension this week. I freaked out after I put the lift kit in, because along with all new joints (hmm, track bar ends...) my camber was whacked! I was fretting that I had installed a ball joint wrong, bent the axle.... Did a measurement the next day and my toe differed an inch! I dialed that back to about 1/16" and the difference in drivability was no contest. Also discovered that the axle shifted toward the driver side by an inch, so I ordered an adjustable track bar.
Here's a lesson learned- Put a JVC radio in this weekend. Worked great unless the key was in the accessory position. Checked F17- it was good. Tore apart the steering column to get to the ignition switch, and checked for power on the pole, which was there. But there wasn't any voltage when the key was in the accessory position, so I figured it was a bad ignition switch. Off to NAPA for the $43 part. Installed it, same result. Frustrated, I switched the key off briskly and the key rotated past the lock position and suddenly my radio came on. WTH! Then I remembered the old school key, where ACC is back instead of forward. And I couldn't return the ignition switch I bought- I opened the old one and the spring and ball shot off across the shop, never to be seen again.
OK, had another fun weekend. Put on the Napier flares. Someone in the past did a pretty good cut n' fold on the fenders so there was only a little bit of trimming on the front and a little pounding on the rear. Turned out pretty nice! A word of advice: since I was an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years I felt confident that I wouldn't hit the windshield washer tank when drilling for the driver front flare. Well, first hole went right into it. So follow the directions...I spent more time fixing the damn thing than removing and installing it. Or use a thin sheetmetal backer. Lesson learned.
OK, had another fun weekend. Put on the Napier flares. Someone in the past did a pretty good cut n' fold on the fenders so there was only a little bit of trimming on the front and a little pounding on the rear. Turned out pretty nice! A word of advice: since I was an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years I felt confident that I wouldn't hit the windshield washer tank when drilling for the driver front flare. Well, first hole went right into it. So follow the directions...I spent more time fixing the damn thing than removing and installing it. Or use a thin sheetmetal backer. Lesson learned.
OK, had another fun weekend. Put on the Napier flares. Someone in the past did a pretty good cut n' fold on the fenders so there was only a little bit of trimming on the front and a little pounding on the rear. Turned out pretty nice! A word of advice: since I was an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years
I felt confident that I wouldn't hit the windshield washer tank when drilling for the driver front flare. Well, first hole went right into it.
So follow the directions...I spent more time fixing the damn thing than removing and installing it. Or use a thin sheetmetal backer. Lesson learned.
Damn that sucks. Story of my life every time I try to cut corners. Or think it wont happen to me.
OK, it's been awhile since I've posted. I'm almost finished with the list of things I wanted to do to it (but the next list keeps growing!). Anyhow, here's what I've done in the past couple of weeks:
Smittybilt sliders- don't get me started on installing rivnuts...total PITA. The manual calls out 3/8" size nuts but the parts bag had M10s.
New JVC stereo with a powered subwoofer under the back seat. Soundgarden never sounded so good.
Adjustable trackbar.
All new ball joints- guess I got lucky...they all came out easily. A rust-free truck helps .
Replaced the bearing hubs while I had the steering knuckles apart. One was definitely bad, the other serviceable as a spare.
New Uniden CB radio
3 pairs of PIAA lights- 2 fogs, 2 driving lights, 2 high intensity driving lights
Re-purposed the original fog lights as rear area lights
Lower rear quarter panel protection
I'm sure I missed 1 or 2 things, but overall the truck is in much better condition than when I bought it- EVERYTHING works as it should now. And my black & tan coonhound Hank approves!
02-21-2018, 11:22 AM
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