Slow and Unsteady '00 build
#31
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Location: Oceanside So Cal
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Year: 88
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 renix
smilly says your confussed?
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
#34
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: People's Republic
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nice build so far. I feel your pain on the track bar. Those things are my nemesis.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
#35
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maine
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
smilly says your confussed?
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Nice build so far. I feel your pain on the track bar. Those things are my nemesis.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
And hopefully my tie rod doesnt give me near as much trouble.
Il go check.
#36
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
This
Has turned nto this
And my shock bolts are gone.
Only had to do a little modification to the exhaust to get at the shock bolts...
I can now finally install my rear.
Has turned nto this
And my shock bolts are gone.
Only had to do a little modification to the exhaust to get at the shock bolts...
I can now finally install my rear.
#38
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
And now comes the part why its not really done.
Besides my rear wheels not being on.
My draglink still needs to be removed so I can install my tracbar bolt. But thats not the real problem I had with tonight.
This is.
While trying to figures out clearance issues one of the bolts got pushed too far. And now its unreachable. So Ill have to make another store run.
Yay for me.
Besides my rear wheels not being on.
My draglink still needs to be removed so I can install my tracbar bolt. But thats not the real problem I had with tonight.
This is.
While trying to figures out clearance issues one of the bolts got pushed too far. And now its unreachable. So Ill have to make another store run.
Yay for me.
#45
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I don't think your rake is too bad. Plus are those full leaf packs? They'll need to settle for a few weeks and they'll probably come back down and look straight. Keep up the good work!