CF Veteran
smilly says your confussed?
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Senior Member
I had oil coming from the back of the valve cover gasket, and it was running down.
Newbie
Nice build so far. I feel your pain on the track bar. Those things are my nemesis.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
Quote:
Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Originally Posted by Domaas
smilly says your confussed?Clean the area...atart and run motor..do not drive....check leak location...no leak yet? run longer..recheck. if you cant find..its not leaking..lol j/k
I you are having a really hard time with it, and dont wanna take it somewhere to diagnose..there are several comercial grade ultraviolet leak kits out there redially avail at most parts stores..inc chemical and a black light usuallly.
Quote:
After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
Thanks for the suggestions on the oil leak. Im going to check that after I get the lift finished, and it out of the garage. Im being pestered constantly about taking up the garage.Originally Posted by Zombie Slayer
Nice build so far. I feel your pain on the track bar. Those things are my nemesis.After all that you have cut, torched, and beat into submission, I would think that popping the Tie Rod End on the passenger side should be cake.
Head down to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a pickle fork. A couple firm strikes and it should come right off.
While you are there pick up a can of engine clean. ( I used Gunk brand ) It should be cheaper than the dye kits.
It is crazy how far oil travels after it leaks, combine gravity with airflow from under the vehicle and without a fresh look you may never find the source.
Give the underside of your engine a healthy coat and let soak (while warm not hot) then pressure wash off. Your local self clean car wash is a good place to perform the task.
Drive it home and check for fresh oil. If nothing, keep driving and check daily. It will help you pin point where to start looking.
And hopefully my tie rod doesnt give me near as much trouble.
Quote:
Il go check.Originally Posted by lonewolf411
What size bolts did you use for the shock mounts?
This

Has turned nto this

And my shock bolts are gone.


Only had to do a little modification to the exhaust to get at the shock bolts...

I can now finally install my rear.

Has turned nto this

And my shock bolts are gone.


Only had to do a little modification to the exhaust to get at the shock bolts...

I can now finally install my rear.
My Lift is done!
But not really.
Here it is right now.

Rabdom pics





Doesnt sit level. Even with the dinky 225's on the back

But not really.
Here it is right now.

Rabdom pics






Doesnt sit level. Even with the dinky 225's on the back

And now comes the part why its not really done.
Besides my rear wheels not being on.
My draglink still needs to be removed so I can install my tracbar bolt. But thats not the real problem I had with tonight.
This is.

While trying to figures out clearance issues one of the bolts got pushed too far. And now its unreachable. So Ill have to make another store run.
Yay for me.
Besides my rear wheels not being on.
My draglink still needs to be removed so I can install my tracbar bolt. But thats not the real problem I had with tonight.
This is.

While trying to figures out clearance issues one of the bolts got pushed too far. And now its unreachable. So Ill have to make another store run.
Yay for me.
My lift is done. But I have a lot of rake. Not exactly what I want.
Here are some pics.





Pinion angle


Tryinf to show how bad the rake is

Here are some pics.





Pinion angle


Tryinf to show how bad the rake is

Quote:
Picture is misleading. Ill have to take another.Originally Posted by iTouchMe
I dont see any rake.
Resident Pirate
good looking 2door, i like the visor and the lift is looking good! By the way ive been looking for a pair of stock height shackles with no luck as well...
Quote:
look at the lug nuts compared to the line, theres an inch or two of difference at leastOriginally Posted by iTouchMe
I dont see any rake.
Resident Zombie Hunter
I don't think your rake is too bad. Plus are those full leaf packs? They'll need to settle for a few weeks and they'll probably come back down and look straight. Keep up the good work!



