Oh man that trail looks fun. Good work on the jeep, It looks great

 

Thank you

 

Okay, had some driveline vibes. Crawled underneath only to discover the rear universal joint straps were wearing out and allowing the U-joint to move around. Fix?

Ford U-bolt kit, HELP! brand part number 81004 from Autozone


First step was to remove old straps and drill the threads out using a 5/16
drill bit.




You can see the difference in the bottom holes which have been drilled.
Complete all four holes making sure to drill straight and evenly.

Then replace drive shaft, hammer in the U-bolts and tighten down.


All in all this took about 45 minutes....maybe. This took care of the drive-line vibes, increased the strength and eliminated the possibility of breaking a bolt on the trail and being stranded without a drive shaft.

Thanks to Skunkape for helping out

I also just ordered a new set of Yukon axle shafts for the rear...should be here soon!

 

No problem,I wish flipping those axles woulda worked,but oh well.And next time we gotta close my garage door so nobody can see your candy cane shaft!I got neighbors ya know!

 

ha ha, i just got an email from randys saying the axles shipped and according to the tracking number they are already in knoxville!!!! so hopefully by the end of the week i'll be sitting pretty again and maybe next weekend hit up a trail!

 

Nice Jeep, nice thread. I drove through Knoxville and Pigeon Forge last September driving a friends new RV back cross country, would love to head there in the spring when I get my Jeep.

 

Project "huckabee"....cause its just huckabee that your jeep has no name!lol!

 

Yea I am up in that area all the time, lots of great hikes. Thanks for the comments!

 

very nice build!

 

 

So I just realized that several of the pictures from my lift install have magically vanished.....what gives?

 

K, so here are some of the photos that magically disappeared from the lift install page.

Slip eliminator installed


Brand new control arm had a bad weld already.


Cutting out the old weld nut for the springs


Solution was to weld a nut to the back of a big washer and weld it in place using the bolt to line it up

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But along the way got into a fight with a cut off wheel




Two stitches and part of my nail removed....YUMMY

 

Alrighty, got the new Detroit installed and picked up a 48" high lift from a friend for $30.


First step was to remove rear wheels and brakes. Look at those purdy Yukons


Next removed the diff cover and drained all the oil. This gives a good shot of what the lunchbox locker looked like.



Next step was to remove the center pin from the carrier and then the springs and pins from the locker. Once this was done the axles could be slid inward and the c-clips removed.

Next step was to loosen the four large 3/4" bolts that hold the caps on the carrier bearings. This would allow the whole carrier to be removed. Like so.



Next remove the ring gear from the old carrier by removing the 10 bolts holding it on and then striking it with a rubber mallet. One thing VERY important is these bolts are REVERSE thread! Breaking one of these bolts is very bad because you can't just go to home depot and by them.....not to mention having to remove the broken piece from the ring gear.



This was working but was taking a little to long so I screwed 6 bolts back in quarter way and hit the tops of them with the mallet working in a criss-cross pattern. This was a lot faster.


Now, at this point I had practically brand new bearings since I just did gears at the beginning of the summer. However, getting them off is a nightmare so I would highly recommend just spending the extra coin (about $30) and buy new bearings.

New detroit in press getting ready for new bearings.


Then reinstall ring gear torquing the bolts to 75ft lbs and applying a small amount of blue loc-tite.

Here is the new locker ready for install.


Now, when reinstalling the new locker since the ring gear was removed the backlash will have to be reset. To do this there are adjusting "screws" if you will that are placed on either side of the carrier. Turning on these "screws" will allow the carrier to move from one side to the other thereby adjusting the lash. You can see in the photo below the round object with the hexagonal pattern in the middle and the little holes around the outer edges. This is the adjusting screw that will sit inside the bearing caps.

Normally a special socket is used with these little teeth on it that grab into the little holes and spin the screw. This is done by placing the socket on a very long extension and going through the axle housing. However, the socket barely fits inside the axle housing and if the wheel bearings are installed it won't fit. (as in my case) This is where I got creative and found a nut that fit the inside of the hexagonal pattern on the screw. I then welded the nut to a washer and found a piece of bar stock long enough to reach through the axle housing. I then welded it all together and voila. This new tool perfectly fit through the axle housing with the wheel bearings still in place. You can see all three in the picture below


Now for the installation of the locker and adjusting it. Sorry I don't have pictures for this a friend was helping me and he was on the clock so I didn't want to waste his time with stopping to take pictures, plus it was already dark outside and we were working by flashlight.

After the locker was installed, I had to put the axles and c-clips in. The c-clips fit inside two little "cups" inside the locker. In order for this to happen the clips needed to be ground down a little bit.

 

Do you have pix of the fubar'd Aussie?

 

Yea, let me go take some real quick. Nothing was obviously broke like the last one. Just the teeth were all chewed up.

Tony, Do you still want or need a 29 spline carrier housing for your 8.25?