Project "Camo Cash Cow"
#16
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Location: Florida
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power-Tech 242 I6
and if you do have the d35 i'd say go to the junkyard and find an explorer 8.8 with a limited slip that would solve your need of a locker and give you a lot stronger of an axle the only downside is you will need to regear the front which if you get 4.10s that should give you plenty of power with 33s
i have the d35 too haha so thats basically my plans...eventually lol
#17
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Location: Soddy Daisy TN
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Find a 8.25 in a 96 and up XJ. It's a direct bolt in and tons stronger. There are tons of lockers for the 35 as well as the 8.25. I would stay away from the LSD. If you just plan to wheel it, weld it and get a set of junkyard shafts to carry just in case. I have snapped a total of 5 shafts in a 35 with 33s and a locker so be prepaired. The 8.8 is an OK swap but is narrower than stock so you need spacers and still a c-clip axle plus you loose about 1.5" of ground clearance. A ford 9" is always a good swap and the car and Ranchero versions have the same bolt pattern and close to the same width.
#18
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Location: South Carolina
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was thinking about finding an 8.25 because there are tons of jeeps around here and I had heard that it was stronger. This is going to be a trail jeep that will see an occasional trip to the store or pick up the kids. However I do not want to weld it, I want a locker, I want it done right.
#19
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Location: j-burg NY
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l 4 cyl
contral arms deff not stock but a good job, camo paint job nice, trimmed fenders/flairs, lift,wheels and tires, missing track bar (i hear new one getting put in) other than that i donno.
#21
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I wouldnt lock the 35 its likely to break. The rear 44 and 8.25 are common swaps. Rear 44's are found on some older xj's and the 8.25 is found on newer ones. They make for an easy junkyard swap. The lift looks to be about 3' with a budget boost stacked on top of it. the budget boost is coil spacers and shackles. You will need to return the stock trackbar and get an adjustable one. You will notice your axle is not centered properly due to the lift and the trackbar being stock length.
If you are deadset on keeping the 35 i would wheel it open, reducing the chance of it exploding. Or you can always weld it up and start building a replacement axle.
GL
If you are deadset on keeping the 35 i would wheel it open, reducing the chance of it exploding. Or you can always weld it up and start building a replacement axle.
GL
#22
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finally got it to the house today so Ill be able to start tinkering with her and taking some better pics tomorrow. The good ole check engine light came on on the way from my friends shop, and the battery is dead, and it needs a brake job So I guess I know whats first on the agenda. From the advice Ive gotten Im def gonna look for an 8.25 but would rather have the 44. def not gonna mess with the 35. Thanks for the help on the trackbar, I figured id prob need an adj. one, but it was there and it was a quick fix to get me on the road...
Last edited by Dollar-Bill; 02-21-2010 at 06:19 PM.
#23
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well started messing with it today, got a battery in, some brake pads, and started taking off these fender... well I wont call them flares.. more like fender flaps. Sorry if any of you out there are running them I just think this set looks bad. There all wavy and holding mud/water as you can see, the PO took extra sheet metal and fastened it the the body with rivets, leaving a surface to screw the fender flaps to....
#24
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
More of the fender flaps, and oh, I need and axle seal....... jacked up driver side and look what poured out of the passenger.
#25
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Took the restrictor out of the air box and changed an overdue filter. Took a few shots of the engine bay.. 174000 on the clock but no leaks, no smoke, to ticks, fires right up.
#28
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Take the top off of your air box and pull the intake hose loose from the top of the box. Once you do this the restrictor is inside the opening on top of the box. There are two o rings inside so its a snug fit but with pliars you can pull it out fairly easy. Pic 1 is the view of where the restrictor was before removal. And there is a picture of what the restrictor looks like once removed. Its sitting on top of my windshield washer bottle.. I guess its pretty much the same for all models and Ive read several things about it here, just cant remember the exact threads.