Project: Blue Heep
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you have any steering upgrades with the lift? My only concern is after I go to the long arms I don't want to regret it b/c I have to redo my steering as well.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I haven't had a chance to get it aligned yet, but i don't think it'll be a problem. I'd do it myself, but my dad works for a body shop so i could probably get it done for a 12 pack, and save myself the hassle. I'll let you know if i run into any problems.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Random update, strengthened the LCA mounts on my Dana HP30 and finished priming/painting.
You can see the 1/4" plate welded across the mounts, they should act as a skid as well as providing strength.

You can see the 1/4" plate welded across the mounts, they should act as a skid as well as providing strength.

Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sure did, I won't be able to take full advantage of the extra flex just yet since I will need to buy new shocks and extend my brake lines but I wanted to get this on the way and get my front suspension tightened back up with the new front axle next weekend.
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Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Kind of a worthless update but I had a nice surprise on the steps when I got home from the lake today! Iron Rock Offroad cannot be beat when it comes to quick shipping, ordered them on Wednesday evening and they are on my door step Monday ( a holiday no less!)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Started to remove the axle/install long arms last night. Proving to be a major PITA! Every bolt either breaks and then I have to drill/tap new threads or is just a super big pain to get out even with a nice impact gun.
Here goes some pictures....
Pulled the Jeep into the shop, first thing on the list is to remove the factory cross member and put in the new Iron Rock Offroad subframe.

MMM...mmm...Good

Say good bye LP D30 with your bent and busted LCAs/mounts

Batter Up.

Removed in a few minutes, drilled and tapped a few minutes later.

Then the fun started (yea right). Bolted up the subframe and the studs for the transmission/transfer case did not line up with the holes in the new cross member. Ended up taking off the mount itself from the bottom of the transmission to make sure it wasn't off or something which then come to find out the transmission must have been out of the Jeep at some point b/c the bolts are cross threaded into the case of the transmission (oh joy). So after running around town to find a metric tap and new hardware to clean up the threads we get it done and get the new cross member up and into the Jeep after "massaging" the driveline a bit to get it to drop into the holes in the cross member.
Installed, Great Success!

Oh wait...clearance issue. The cross member is touching the front driveline.


Oh well, out come the pneumatic cutting wheel

Finally got the Jeep up in the air and the tires off to start disconnecting everything to yank out the old axle.


Here is where I called it quits for the night...err morning 2am. Husker football game in 9 hours, heading to the bars to prime up in 7 hours.
Just wanted to throw some updates on my build thread, Husker Nation is happy with a win today and now it is time to head back out to the shop to battle the lower trac bar bolt which is seized into the bushing and keeping me from yanking that POS axle out.
Here goes some pictures....
Pulled the Jeep into the shop, first thing on the list is to remove the factory cross member and put in the new Iron Rock Offroad subframe.

MMM...mmm...Good

Say good bye LP D30 with your bent and busted LCAs/mounts

Batter Up.

Removed in a few minutes, drilled and tapped a few minutes later.

Then the fun started (yea right). Bolted up the subframe and the studs for the transmission/transfer case did not line up with the holes in the new cross member. Ended up taking off the mount itself from the bottom of the transmission to make sure it wasn't off or something which then come to find out the transmission must have been out of the Jeep at some point b/c the bolts are cross threaded into the case of the transmission (oh joy). So after running around town to find a metric tap and new hardware to clean up the threads we get it done and get the new cross member up and into the Jeep after "massaging" the driveline a bit to get it to drop into the holes in the cross member.
Installed, Great Success!

Oh wait...clearance issue. The cross member is touching the front driveline.


Oh well, out come the pneumatic cutting wheel


Finally got the Jeep up in the air and the tires off to start disconnecting everything to yank out the old axle.


Here is where I called it quits for the night...err morning 2am. Husker football game in 9 hours, heading to the bars to prime up in 7 hours.
Just wanted to throw some updates on my build thread, Husker Nation is happy with a win today and now it is time to head back out to the shop to battle the lower trac bar bolt which is seized into the bushing and keeping me from yanking that POS axle out.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Spent some more time on it last night, ran into a few more problems with disassembly coming from the lower track bar bolt on the axle and the old control arms on the body side. After some cutting I managed to get it out.

Finally out.

Got the new D30/springs back under the Jeep, just have to connect the control arms and she will be in her new home. Stopped by the parts store as well so the new axle is getting new wheel bearing/hub assemblies, new rotors and pads...cost a pretty penny but this way the front end is nearly new.
Random picture of the cars not happy to be sitting outside when the daily driver Jeep takes up the garage.

Finally out.

Got the new D30/springs back under the Jeep, just have to connect the control arms and she will be in her new home. Stopped by the parts store as well so the new axle is getting new wheel bearing/hub assemblies, new rotors and pads...cost a pretty penny but this way the front end is nearly new.
Random picture of the cars not happy to be sitting outside when the daily driver Jeep takes up the garage.
Last edited by C.J.; Sep 13, 2010 at 10:21 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Spent some more time on it last night, ran into a few more problems with disassembly coming from the lower track bar bolt on the axle and the old control arms on the body side. After some cutting I managed to get it out.
Finally out.
Got the new D30/springs back under the Jeep, just have to connect the control arms and she will be in her new home. Stopped by the parts store as well so the new axle is getting new wheel bearing/hub assemblies, new rotors and pads...cost a pretty penny but this way the front end is nearly new.
Random picture of the cars not happy to be sitting outside when the daily driver Jeep takes up the garage.
Finally out.
Got the new D30/springs back under the Jeep, just have to connect the control arms and she will be in her new home. Stopped by the parts store as well so the new axle is getting new wheel bearing/hub assemblies, new rotors and pads...cost a pretty penny but this way the front end is nearly new.
Random picture of the cars not happy to be sitting outside when the daily driver Jeep takes up the garage.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah I love it, best car I have ever owned. Doesn't hurt that it is an 11 second car you can drive around everyday
Plus it is is 10x easier to work on than this Jeep, garage kept and never sees anything other than sunshine so there are no rusted/busted bolt problems.
Plus it is is 10x easier to work on than this Jeep, garage kept and never sees anything other than sunshine so there are no rusted/busted bolt problems.
Nice STI!
I likey!
so good progress so far.
I know how much of a pain it is to remove that stuff.
I only broke one bolt, but I had to use a torch and a breaker bar to remove almost every other bolt!
Impact wrench didn't do much for me either.
My advice is to do like I did and use Anti-seize lathered up on every new bolt installed.
I see some people on here NOT using it and I can just tell that someone down the road is going to have a HUGE PITA time getting those nuts and bolts back off if ever needed.
I also see people using lock-tite on the most dumb spots.
Where they should have been using anti-seize, they use lock-tite, so now removing them in the future after they are rusted and Glued in place is going to be impossible. lol
good luck keep the pics rolling.
ttyl
I likey!
so good progress so far.
I know how much of a pain it is to remove that stuff.
I only broke one bolt, but I had to use a torch and a breaker bar to remove almost every other bolt!
Impact wrench didn't do much for me either.
My advice is to do like I did and use Anti-seize lathered up on every new bolt installed.
I see some people on here NOT using it and I can just tell that someone down the road is going to have a HUGE PITA time getting those nuts and bolts back off if ever needed.
I also see people using lock-tite on the most dumb spots.
Where they should have been using anti-seize, they use lock-tite, so now removing them in the future after they are rusted and Glued in place is going to be impossible. lol
good luck keep the pics rolling.
ttyl


