Project: #becauseracejeep
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Front is cut 3" lift coils. Gunna go to cut 7" lift coils soon for a stiffer spring rate.
Running bilstein shocks all the way around. I forget which are on the front and rear, but I believe I used Chevy 1500 and Ford F150 spec shocks because the collapsed length was perfect.
Running bilstein shocks all the way around. I forget which are on the front and rear, but I believe I used Chevy 1500 and Ford F150 spec shocks because the collapsed length was perfect.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 22
From: PA KOTUFU!
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
When I researched all the XJ front coils, I found that with each higher lift spring, the spring rate went up.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 668
Likes: 0
From: Mesa,Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
When I researched all the XJ front coils, I found that with each higher lift spring, the spring rate went up.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
I thought about cutting lift coils but I didn't feel like spending the money and I have the Subaru coils laying around that have a 390 pounds spring rate so it should work out pretty well
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When I researched all the XJ front coils, I found that with each higher lift spring, the spring rate went up.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
Redesigning coil buckets and different springs, could almost just go coil overs.
We basically lowered and started with the XJ sitting on the bump stops. Used that position for all our measurements and clearance. That was our desired ride height. Then cut the bump stops about 1" to allow for some up travel. This actually gives a very good ride quality. Stock coils were cut for this height, then 3" lift coils were cut for this height, now we are going to use Rubicon Express 7" coils cut to this height. We cut the coils to get close and then cut 1/4 wind at a time to fine tune.
The 3" lift coils cut to desired ride height work great with the bilstein shocks and heavier F+R sway bars. For us when autocrossing, the outside front dips a bit too much in a tight turn and lifts the inside rear. We want flatter turning while autocrossing, hence the cut 7" RE coils. For the street, the cut 3" lift coils work great.
I bought a set off ebay. try them, cut for your desired ride height and see how they work. Start slow and work your way to the desired height. Cut and try for a week or two. The coils will sag a bit at first, hence go slowly. You can always cut another 1/4 coil every 2 weeks until you reach your desired ride height. At least that is what I would do.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 22
From: PA KOTUFU!
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
The 'other' RaceJeep that has been lightened/stripped, suspension, set up for drag with auto trans and 100k+ engine ran 14.9@89mph stock and 12.7@104mph with nitrous!
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 6
From: Northern MN
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 3
From: West By God Virginia
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 99 4.0
14.9 may have a tiny bit left in it at a better track, but I know I could get more than the 12.7 on bottle outta it if I was able to make a couple more passes. Now I'm just debating on reseting my own time, or just pulling the plug on the stock motor and going built....either way I'd still wouldn't mind taking a stab at an autoX event with you guys sometime.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
14.9 may have a tiny bit left in it at a better track, but I know I could get more than the 12.7 on bottle outta it if I was able to make a couple more passes. Now I'm just debating on reseting my own time, or just pulling the plug on the stock motor and going built....either way I'd still wouldn't mind taking a stab at an autoX event with you guys sometime.
Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: NW, MS 'Yall
Year: 97
Engine: 4.0
Marty or Jeff..
The Rubicon Express springs. Are those the name of the springs themselves or the Model Jeep to get them from? And, I just assume that at 7" they are an upgrade for THAT vehicle?
Also, is there a 4" or 5" lift spring with a higher rate for the front instead of going with a 7" lift one?
And, how much more cost is it for the 7"?
I'm getting to the point in life where I only want to get in there and do it once or twice.
Just thinking of doing the fine tuning for 4-6x already makes my back hurt.
I was trying to get a pair of grand cherokee springs out at a pull-it, and fought with them for an hour or so and still didn't get them. (yes, I did pull that 1/2" hold down bolt)
I have a few pairs of older 60's Chevy car springs laying around that are almost doubled in thickness..(?)
but look to be the same diameter.
In the threads of because-racejeep it looks like there is only a couple inches of suspension travel.
And it states that they are street driven, so do you guys bottom out on the strike-out bumpers all the time?
We don't have tons of pot holes here, but there are quick dips in the roads and hwys that at speed, can cause severe bump steer.
I plan on a small ci V8 swap, so there is going to be a difference in weight up front.
Just hope the nv3550's shifter is in the same space..
E
The Rubicon Express springs. Are those the name of the springs themselves or the Model Jeep to get them from? And, I just assume that at 7" they are an upgrade for THAT vehicle?
Also, is there a 4" or 5" lift spring with a higher rate for the front instead of going with a 7" lift one?
And, how much more cost is it for the 7"?
I'm getting to the point in life where I only want to get in there and do it once or twice.
Just thinking of doing the fine tuning for 4-6x already makes my back hurt.
I was trying to get a pair of grand cherokee springs out at a pull-it, and fought with them for an hour or so and still didn't get them. (yes, I did pull that 1/2" hold down bolt)
I have a few pairs of older 60's Chevy car springs laying around that are almost doubled in thickness..(?)
but look to be the same diameter.
In the threads of because-racejeep it looks like there is only a couple inches of suspension travel.
And it states that they are street driven, so do you guys bottom out on the strike-out bumpers all the time?
We don't have tons of pot holes here, but there are quick dips in the roads and hwys that at speed, can cause severe bump steer.
I plan on a small ci V8 swap, so there is going to be a difference in weight up front.
Just hope the nv3550's shifter is in the same space..
E