Nelly The Purple Jeep
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got most of my steering for my WJ swap this weekend. 1.50x.250 dom steering, timken hubs, over the axle tbar mount, heims for the tbar, jks spacers, goferit inserts and all my weld in bungs. Just waiting on my teraflex offset 1 ton tie rod ends and then will order my brakes
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, you don't want that. The first dip in the road with a track bar that short would send you into the next county. But, I'm assuming it's just sitting there.
Last edited by Lowrange2; Jul 22, 2014 at 06:27 AM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lol no definitely not going there. It welds right next to the coil but I have to cut off the steering stabilizer and trackbar mount first. Just building as much as I can on this broken axle so I can put my jeep down for the least amount of time possible
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do have a question about the rotors though. I'm not sure how I feel about redrilling wj rotors to the correct bolt pattern since honestly it doesn't sound all that sage even if they're hubcentric. Now I've heard of sport trac rotors being used but also that they may not be deep enough or will need to be shaved down.
What's your guy's opinion?
What's your guy's opinion?
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I redrilled my set, pain in the ***. The most accurate way, IMO is to separate a unit bearing and pop the studs out of the wheel mounting surface and mark the new holes in the rotor. The hub sizes are the same. If you feel you can get them accurate enough, they're hubcentric and they'd be fine. Downside is that whenever you want to replace those rotors is that they need to be redrilled. Lowrange used sport trac rotors, iirc.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah I've heard of sport trac rotors working but I believe with tj hubs and caliper spacers or something, just not completely sure. I'm fine with redrilling my rotors since I got old ones I can lay on to mark the pattern. I got a buddy that should be able to use his drill press to make it a little easier. My boss on the other hand is adamant about me not drilling my rotors though..
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
They're hub centric and a good drilling job should allow them to sit tightly on the shoulders of the lug studs. Plenty of people have done it on NAXJA, plus dual drilled rotors and shafts exist...
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Getting some stuff done before the weekend. Knuckles drilled out, goferit inserts welded, spacers welded and my rotors are at my buddies house being redrilled. Also welded in one side of my tie rod
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Quite the difference. Bumps are in the seat not the steering wheel and it's much tighter. Still need to fix something as in getting bad death wobble braking from 50mph. I have a feeling it's the track bar heims
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got the wobble sorted out. Note to self, toe in not toe out lol. Also painted everything. Got a few things to work out but I'm happy with it





