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About 3 weeks go I picked up my new(to me) Jeep Cherokee. She’s a 1991 Laredo 4x4 with the 4.0 for 1000 bucks. The previous owner said that one of the piston rings went out even though he rebuilt the engine less than 1000 miles before. So we towed her home(after taking off the drive shaft of course so don’t judge me) and immediately started ripping it apart. The body is in great shape with very little rust and almost no dents. I proceeded to take the engine out and it looks like the piston rings were completely fine. One of the rod bearings was completely shredded/melted. The next step in this process will be to clean and decrease the front of the unibody and sand and finally paint it black. I plan to bed up with a 4.5 inch lift with long arms and 35 inch tires. Got big plans and little funds for this thing so let’s see what I can do with it.
Well I think I’m going to swap it to the newer front end first and then probably just run them cut until I can get flat flares. I want to make sure everything runs perfect though before I buy and visual mods.
Well I think I’m going to swap it to the newer front end first and then probably just run them cut until I can get flat flares. I want to make sure everything runs perfect though before I buy and visual mods.
I was just curious since you said that you planned 35s with 4.5" lift and on my Cherokee it rubbed on the street without trimming.
If you tow it again like that just put the transfercase in neutral instead of removing the driveshaft. All.that did was potentially dump ATF out on the road.
If you tow it again like that just put the transfercase in neutral instead of removing the driveshaft. All.that did was potentially dump ATF out on the road.
Dang good to know. I’ll take note of that next time
If you tow it again like that just put the transfercase in neutral instead of removing the driveshaft. All.that did was potentially dump ATF out on the road.
I don't remember what year it was, but the later years don't leak atf with the rear driveshaft removed. It's safer to remove the rear shaft in the event of transfercase slipping out of neutral. If you're just trying to prevent leaking fluids you can disconnect the driveshaft at the axle side and tie it up safely.
OP said it was a 91 which most certainly has a "wet" slipyoke. And if the Tcase "slipping" out of neutral was a real problem then all the probably hundreds of thousands of flat towed XJs behind motorhomes would have probably made the news after puking their guts up all over the interstates.
OP said it was a 91 which most certainly has a "wet" slipyoke. And if the Tcase "slipping" out of neutral was a real problem then all the probably hundreds of thousands of flat towed XJs behind motorhomes would have probably made the news after puking their guts up all over the interstates.
I've seen many many 231 transfercase slipping in and out of neutral or grinding just on the edge of the gears. Mine has popped out of 4 low a few times until everything got properly adjusted with a better made linkage, better drivetrain bushings, and even the driveshaft was having some binding issues that caused problems. The way the linkage uses hard fixed rods between the body and a transfercase that is held by a rubber bushing allows movement between the two when the rubber flexes up and down and forward and back. Even though every Cherokee that's ever been flat towed hasn't blown apart I'm sure there's been at least one. That's enough for me to avoid it if possible.
OP said it was a 91 which most certainly has a "wet" slipyoke. And if the Tcase "slipping" out of neutral was a real problem then all the probably hundreds of thousands of flat towed XJs behind motorhomes would have probably made the news after puking their guts up all over the interstates.
Ah yes I just remembered that the linkage for the transfer case was bent and popped out so I would have to take the drive shaft out no matter what
Jeep XJ Restomod
