Ironmans 2 door build down
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,902
Likes: 19
From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
We were using both 1" OD and 1.5" OD. The OD was always good (with in .0020 but the ID would very up to .015 run out. So to keep it concentric we'd ream to keep it true..
But as long is it's something your aware of that was my only reason for saying something.
But as long is it's something your aware of that was my only reason for saying something.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well i appreciate the heads up. I am only relying on about 6" of depth and you know that compared to a 2" tube insert that everyone else uses a 6" tap that may vary by a few thou is considerably stronger.
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I'm subscribing to this thread. I would like to see how the crossmember turns out because I may be interested in buying it and swapping out my rough country crossmember. I need my drivetrain in the stock location, not dropped.
Those arms are gnarly.
Those arms are gnarly.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got some time to get back to this tonight for a little bit and decided to mess with the sway bar disconnects. I don't really like anything available as far a cheap discos go and the JKS ones still get loose after a few dirty rides. I decided to just up and re invent this wheel. I want a firm joint so the sway bar will work well and not clunk around so i decided to go with my internally centralized bushing setup. I also wanted it to be super easy to adjust. So I decided to go with left and right hand threading for a dial in adjustment. I spent some time on the lathe and this is what I came up with. These Discos are strong enough to double as control arms. Actually it is stronger than some of my competitors arms heh heh.


The threading is 3/4 16tpi left and right, machined from 1 peice of 1" solid CR
The ends are from 1.25" CR and have 3" of threading. I figure these will work from a 4-8 inch lift no problem. I hope to end up with about 5.5."
Ill post up more pics when I have them finished with the bushing set up. I may switch to a 2" johnny joint on one end. I am also looking into the narrower johnny joints for better clearance.


The threading is 3/4 16tpi left and right, machined from 1 peice of 1" solid CR
The ends are from 1.25" CR and have 3" of threading. I figure these will work from a 4-8 inch lift no problem. I hope to end up with about 5.5."
Ill post up more pics when I have them finished with the bushing set up. I may switch to a 2" johnny joint on one end. I am also looking into the narrower johnny joints for better clearance.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks guys, I dont know if I should carry discos though. I want to remain reasonable and I refuse to make crappy ones.... but nice ones are gonna cost at least around 150 a pair. They just take so much work. I intend to make them release from the axle and re attach somewhere else to keep the sway bar up. If anyone is interested in trying out some sample Ideas I have for them just PM me. I doubt I could reproduce these exactly for under 150 but I could be really close with 3/4 solid and DOM tube.
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Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, sorry no pics of any of this stuff going on the jeep yet I only get a few minutes a day to work on it. We have been swamped as of the first of the year and I just cant get caught up. We have re vamped all of our arms and have a new bushing design on all our parts that flexes awesome but holds as firm as before. All new track bars come with a .050 thou press 95 D poly bushing that is rock solid. Ask muddeprived he just got one special ordered that is one of my favorites yet.
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Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sorry bout the amount of bend at the axle end I was anticipating your long arm set up giving you a lot of flex and we don't want any bind in there. I do however think that since this is 1.25" solid it can handle a few rocks gliding under it. Ill replace it if it does anything other than prove bash-able.
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CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 5
From: Stokesdale, NC
Year: 89XJ,98ZJ,72K10, 06 Tundra..
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Id take a set of those motor mounts for my 89. Shipped to 27357. Also interested in a price on your crossmember and long arms. Ive got a short arm RE 4.5, but would like to upgrade to LA s one of these days.
thanks
thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Hartsville,SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I hope you don't mind Andy:
A few years ago he helped me put a D44 in the front of my xj. Here are some pictures of the D44. he built all the brackets and set up the axle for me. We took a weekend and swapped it in. I think I left his house about 12 or 1 on Sunday. The following weekend I was in Tellico beating the snot out of it! Ahhh Good TIMES!




A few years ago he helped me put a D44 in the front of my xj. Here are some pictures of the D44. he built all the brackets and set up the axle for me. We took a weekend and swapped it in. I think I left his house about 12 or 1 on Sunday. The following weekend I was in Tellico beating the snot out of it! Ahhh Good TIMES!










