The IrishXJ
You all make it sound pretty simple enough so I'll give it a try. T case looked pretty straight forward from bleepin jeep videos so I'm good with that. I don't think I need a SYE but if funds allow I believe I'll do it while I'm investigating chain.

Same thing with front ends. If you replace parts instead of having it aligned, it will go right back where it belongs in the original alignment.
Suppose I just take photos along the way and if I get stuck I'll be on here for help
You all make it sound pretty simple enough so I'll give it a try. T case looked pretty straight forward from bleepin jeep videos so I'm good with that. I don't think I need a SYE but if funds allow I believe I'll do it while I'm investigating chain.
You all make it sound pretty simple enough so I'll give it a try. T case looked pretty straight forward from bleepin jeep videos so I'm good with that. I don't think I need a SYE but if funds allow I believe I'll do it while I'm investigating chain.
Thank you sir... You are absolutely right... A lot of times just keeping track and putting everything back in place will put it right back on the money. 
Same thing with front ends. If you replace parts instead of having it aligned, it will go right back where it belongs in the original alignment.

Same thing with front ends. If you replace parts instead of having it aligned, it will go right back where it belongs in the original alignment.

Speaking of alignment any easy tipa to test alignment so I can see how far off I am?
Well my theory is just that if you replace front end parts without altering the geometry then yea easy put back and go. I was always told the moment you start lifting or lowering a vehicle beyond its factory spec then get it aligned.
Speaking of alignment any easy tipa to test alignment so I can see how far off I am?
Speaking of alignment any easy tipa to test alignment so I can see how far off I am?

But you know what? with some time and pictures we might be able to eyeball if it is grossly out of whack somewhere. I can tell you how to take these correctly so they are useful to us to tell if you like. this could be fun.
Oh man... What you are asking for takes the "eye". lol There are old timers like myself who can just lay on the ground in front of it and eyeball it into alignment almost to specs. As for a general rule of thumb, I'm not sure except for the toe in. Everything else takes equipment or the "eye". 
But you know what? with some time and pictures we might be able to eyeball if it is grossly out of whack somewhere. I can tell you how to take these correctly so they are useful to us to tell if you like. this could be fun.

But you know what? with some time and pictures we might be able to eyeball if it is grossly out of whack somewhere. I can tell you how to take these correctly so they are useful to us to tell if you like. this could be fun.

So what photos do you need to help identify?
Picked up some Diff oil today and a few fuses so later this week I'm pull diff covers and check internals. Buddy locally also has ability to check my alignment so we can adjust if needed so that will save me $. Other than that just a busy work week and looking forward to some Jeep time this weekend.
Picked up some Diff oil today and a few fuses so later this week I'm pull diff covers and check internals. Buddy locally also has ability to check my alignment so we can adjust if needed so that will save me $. Other than that just a busy work week and looking forward to some Jeep time this weekend.
Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 198
Likes: 3
From: China Lake, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L HO
How hard was this to do really? I need to fix my driver side floor, have a 7x5 inch hole right on the uni-frame under he seat.
I didn't weld mine either I used rivets which is another not preferred method. I recommend you weld if you got the skill to do so.
<br /><br />Depends on how you repair it. If that's all you got then it sounds like you can just cut out bad part a d weld in new piece. Make sure to use 16g sheet metal. What I did was just put new pan over old but made sure to cut out and clean up old and prepped it before putting new over. This is not the best method because you can run risk of moisture getting between both ultimately causing same I'd not worse damage in the long run. Personally I didn't care and I prepped and sealed it off pretty good. If it don't hold off I'm betting it will long enough for me to get my use of it. This is no show truck and I don't plan to keep forever plus if I find another clean solid donor I'll just swap parts over.<br /><br />I didn't weld mine either I used rivets which is another not preferred method. I recommend you weld if you got the skill to do so.
So I pulled drain plug on t case today and I'm disappointed. Seems like brown in color fluid and some milky like color. Not extreme but its defiantly dirty and who knows when it was done.
Good thing is maybe its my culprit and I don't have to search high and low for my issue with noise in 4wd.
How much oil capacity is the t case because it seems like maybe half bottle to a 3/4 of a diff fluid capacity came out indicating maybe it was low. Low fluid cause issues I'm assuming but I'm not thrilled on color. I'll see I I can get a photo in a moment.
I was considering putting fresh fluid in and check to see if it changes outcome.
What I meant is it was about the capacity of a brand new differential bottle of fluid.
Good thing is maybe its my culprit and I don't have to search high and low for my issue with noise in 4wd.
How much oil capacity is the t case because it seems like maybe half bottle to a 3/4 of a diff fluid capacity came out indicating maybe it was low. Low fluid cause issues I'm assuming but I'm not thrilled on color. I'll see I I can get a photo in a moment.
I was considering putting fresh fluid in and check to see if it changes outcome.
What I meant is it was about the capacity of a brand new differential bottle of fluid.







