Just for sake of more strength I could also do both but only plug weld floor pans. I'm just on the fence now of just using new floors and that way I don't need to buy more metal for patches and risk warping old floor with patch.

 

Cleaned up floor more. Little more to go then I'll be ready to tackle the welding or whatever it takes to get this floor done.

 

I won't lie I have thought about just over lapping new pans to old ones once I clean them up and seal it then pop rivet and the lay down seam sealer over rivets and all edges. Cheap way to do it and save me the welding part.

Prime it after that, bedliner it and be done

Its not a show truck that's for sure so I'm not worried about looks.

 

That doesnt look too bad. I think you have the hard part behind you. Weld them in and call it a day

 

I agree picture can make it look worse. Though if it were left for another few weeks, months maybe a year it would have been really bad. Lots of surface rust and just three bad areas that needed cut out. The rest is savable I hope anyhow. Like you said weld it in and be done. Never welded before so it will be a challenge. Gonna try get some scraps and practice before attempting real deal.

 

I realize now after looking at this photo I have some pin holes to fix or maybe cut those out as well. Also near the rear seat bolt mounting area closer to trans tunnel area looks a little weak so I may need to cut that area on top and then weld in new piece. I think that is where the frame support is so if I just pop out the top layer of floor pan and cut it without damaging the frame rail I should be okay. I will take a better look at that area and assess when I get home Friday. Stuck on the ship today overnight. I will be very happy when this part of the build is over so I can start getting interior back together. Then focus on the exterior and suspension.

BTW: As soon as I figure out my damn paypal account from this computer I will be sending XJWonders my payment for Transmission mount he built. If what it looks like in photo is what it will be in person and far more superiod then A+ to his crafty workmanship. So far everyone who has purchased them seem more than pleased over factory setup and others. I have motor mounts also pending payment from him. More to follow my paypal just isn't loading up properly on work computer. I may have to do it from my phone later today.

 

I was looking at getting some chassis saver but I didn't want to order it and wait does Napa carry this product? I will probably use that on this side only because this side was worse off then drivers side and the last thing I would want is the rust to come back. It might over time but if I can prolong it I will be happy. Can you put bedliner over the chassis saver?

I think 1qt of this will work fine since I used 1qt of bed liner on my driver floor and trunk area and applied two heavy coats of that with just one can. So 1qt of chassis saver should be more than enough for just passenger floor area.

I also know that weld thru primer will be needed when welding in patches, etc.

 

Update: Transmission Mount ordered from XJWonders!!! Can't wait to get it and install it. I wanted to install it while I was doing supsension but that is not probably going to happen. I have to put things together and bring Jeep out of garage this weekend so I will be installing lift kit without the new transmission mount but when it arrives, I will just drop down the cross member and put it in. Double the work but honestly it isn't that bad I just won't torque things down yet until I'm ready to road test it.

 

Well nothing is free in this world or really a thing as a good deal lol.

So this long arm kit turned into more work then I intended.

First up you all know I never got side brackets for cross member so I had to order those. They came in two days early woohoo! Only to later find out it was missing the flange nuts, a special little nut with a handle on it to put through the hole in frame and allow the forward top bolt to attach to, into uniframe.

Well I had to order those this morning.

So while I removed my cross member and attempted to put new one in I ran into a few issues. One, the forward most bolt holes on unibody frame for cross member were not threaded. Turns out after I dicked around with it long enough I watched YouTube video bleepinjeep and he explained that you can use the self tapping bolts that are in the kit to help. Those were actually for another part of the install but it worked. Well sort of, the drivers side I managed to tap and thread bolt hole. Passenger side didn't really go well. Stripped out one of the install bolts and finally got it threaded enough to use another grade 8.8 bolt I had lying around. I'm not 100% confident it will hold but once the side brackets are attached and with the other two lower bolts are torqued it should be okay. I might for the sake of durability weld it all up when done. Otherwise I might have to tap and thread hole using a slightly larger bolt diameter.

Next came control arm removal which isn't hard just time consuming. I got drivers side down lower part and part of long arm bolted up but not tighten. I still need to remove driver side upper control arm but before doing so I need to cut lower control arm brackets off the uniframe. That's where I stopped last night around 1am. Wish me luck later today .

I won't get it all done this weekend but mostly. Once those flange nuts come in from rough country which costed me another $20 just for some nut with a handle on it, hopefully next week the lift will be done.

I have decided to sell off the 6" skyjacker coils, I'm going to stick with 4.5" coils. Those are for sale as we speak locally.

I only have one photo but kind of blurring showing part of crossmember in and long arm bars attached half way. Actually its pretty dark photo.

Lots of cussing and such so I didn't even take the time to take many or any photos.

 

A good note I should be picking up rear hatch panel trim as mine was missing and someone local will sell me his for $20.

Also, the guy I sold the 4.5" Rubicon Express kit still had the 3.5" leafs. He decided he wasn't going to use them after all so I convinced him to sell them back to me. He gave me a sweet deal so I'm very happy and didn't have to buy more.

I will put on order this weekend or week my coils and then I should be all done except tires. Coming soon.......

 

No progress on floor but maybe I'll take a break from lift and weld in those patches.

Oh the studs on OE cross member get stuck in uniframe and there is a technique to remove them. Well I got lucky one of mine came out the other one I attempted to weld the nut on it, in order to back it out. That didn't work so what did work is, I had enough welded enough flux onto the actual stud that created a surface for vice grips to bite onto. I can weld lol!!!

 

Long arm kit is in. I still need to drill holes and install bolts for top brackets. Rough country didn't send me the stuff I needed guess its separate which makes no sense when I asked for hardware to the brackets.

Should be here this week.

Otherwise everything else is intact and boy that was challenging. Worse part was axle alignment to get arms in correct spot. Once I adjusted arms to rough country specs it seemed to go little easier.

I had to create a make shift come along with ratchet strap to pull axle forward on one side just to get it lined up.

Pretty sure with the 4.5" springs I'm order this weekend it will sit much better. Kit will work on 3" lift but ride height is going to drag those arms first time I flex and go over some terrain.

Next up tires and springs. Then I'll tackle rear leafs which I'm not looking forward to.

 

Assuming that my axle could be out of alignment has anyone experieced that once you install a lift the sway bar end links near the bushings hit your front springs? Well mine did and I removed my sway bar all together until I can rectify the problem. I will not be driving the Jeep on any roads anytime soon so I can leave it as such. Plus when off roading it will be disconnected anyhow. I do though want to fix my problem.

Two things I think:

Axle is pushed forward caused by long arms not adjusted properly for this level of lift? Maybe back them up a little causing the axle to move rearward?
"Rough Country recommends 15 1/4" on UCA's and then 29 3/4" for LCA's." I will double check this again maybe I messed it up.

Or once I install 4.5" springs vice the 3" in it now it will fix it?

 

Have you checked your caster? That will give you a better idea about arm length as adjusting caster will change that.

 

And here I have no idea how to go about doing that any DIY way to check?