By that I mean swapping axle prior to new transfer case so I don't end up messing up new one.

Again that is only if the C8.25 is good. I still need to rebuild entire brakes on it. Fill it with oil, fix a brake line on it and it will be ready to bolt in.

Did you already explain how to check the slack or lash in the axle while its not in vehicle?

 

It would be the similar, all you are looking for with the other check is how much "play" the drive shaft pinion yoke has. How much it turns back and forth before it engages the ring gear inside. Same out of the vehicle, If it is tighter than the one in the vehicle you should be able to turn the drive yoke back and forth to compare the two and tell.

If it's a lot tighter than the other one and you know for sure they are geared the same it would be the way to go. But first we want to make sure that there is indeed a lot of difference between front and rear of what you already have before you go to all that trouble. If the rear yoke is rotating back and forth twice as much or more than the front yoke when checking play, this could be a problem. If not it's probably OK.

 

Well I would imagine my T case chain is sretched but if I find out my axle needs lash adjusted and I can do that I wonder if it will help T case. Perhaps I could have caught it before it got beyond repair.

Today looks good waiting on my son to wake up to help me out. It is supposed to rain today but I should be able to get the video uploaded to help me out. I will make sure to show front axle twist and rear axle to show comparison.

 

Fantastic! I will be in and out today so I will check back in. But you didn't do that... These things take awhile to do damage like that. So it was already a done deal before you even got the Jeep, you haven't driven it enough yet. It just happened to expose it's self because you did all the other recent improvements.

But making sure the gear tolerances are close to the same front and rear might just make it much easier on the TC and needs to be done anyhow, but unfortunately it won't take out the chain slack that is already there.

 

Well that is too bad was hoping maybe the lash in drive line could have been causing that noise and not the T case lol

On a side note does anyone here have rear tail light harness for both passenger and driver side? Mine are in pretty bad shape especially where the bulb plugs are. Not a easy item to clean up rust and corrosion. I suspect these could be the culprit to my blowing marker light fuse.

I would just buy brand new but it seems you can't and I may have to go with used from JY or someone on here. Mine is 1989 so it will be something interchangeable.

 

Know what? "If" there is a gross difference between the front and the rear fixing this "might" actually quiet the TC down a lot and give you more time to deal with that issue.

As for your harness you can buy just new pigtails and splice them in if you like. That's what I would do myself... splice, solder, and shrink tube new pigtail sockets in.

 

Yea that's my plan right after you said that i decided to just order up some plugs and do just that.

I didnt get video done. Turns out I attempted to install my extended brake lines this weekend. Doing so I broke my damn brake line on passenger side. ****! So now I need to replace entire brake line. Right now I have no brakes so I could bock tires and put in neutral but I'm wait until I fix brake lines. No shake down run for me this week too much going on with jeep to do so.

Good thing is buddies I was going to go with have spare brake lines we going to pull tomorrow and toss it in. I might have time to fix it before Friday. If not I'll pass on this weeks run and once I get axle and TC figured out I'll go then.

If its not one thing its another.

Plus I had to replace sway bar end links on wife's excursion and new front shocks. So I got this toy today as a result of fixing her truck

 

I got a lead on a TC 231 that had chain slop in it too but they said I could disect it and have it I think do if so I'll have one to fix put a SYE in it and take mine out and swap. TC worked fine except chain slop so once I figured out my axle lash I'll work on spare TC and get this **** sorted out.

 

I am pretty sure I have a harness out of a 92, I will verify and let ya know. If not I have the one in my 96 I could pull, As none of my wiring will be factory so I could just make the harness I will be making longer to compensate. Either way I got ya covered.

 

Oops. I know how it goes, one problem leads to another and priorities change. Story of my life man. lol

 

Oh nice if you have them and willing to part with them just let me know how much I will pay the shipping. PM when you have them ready for delivering! Thank you!

 

IAC is the idle air control valve. At zero throttle (idle) your throttle body is bypassed and the air comes in through a small electronic valve. The ECU controls the air pulled in past this electronic valve to keep your idle speed right. However if there is a leak, if it's sticking (often due to being gunked up) or if you have it set wayyy off relative to fuel command it'll let the wrong amount of air in and screw up idle.

I am not familiar with the '89 but it should be on your throttle body. There should really just be a TPS and IAC attached to your throttle body.

I'm glad you got a source on these!

I just want to say, they are definitely available new and usually for a reasonable price. However it took a lot of digging for me to find the right part numbers. In case you need it in the future:

I believe the socket for the double filament is: 3764863
This is readily available (I got mine at Summit as well as a few other sources) but it's for the double filament bulb which I believe is used for the turn signals/ brake lights.

I think these are around $4 on Quadratec. Similar prices elsewhere.

I kept looking for the single filament bulb sockets (eg: reverse lights) and found them once, but can never find the part number again. I think it was sold (incorrectly) under the same PN 3764863 at a local shop that is no longer open. I still can't find them online so I'll likely forever buy the double filament sockets and wire them in place of the single filament ones. I think that's a pretty reasonable compromise. The extra draw from the extra filament is not much and I can use an LED bulb for reverse lights anyways to lower the current draw. Also means I only need to carry one type of spare bulb with me (double filament)

I've replaced almost of my tail light sockets with new ones and it was worth the $40 or so in materials. Mine were so rusted I couldn't remove the bulb. After replacing the sockets a handful of little electrical gremlins just magically went away... I'm sure you will feel relieved when you solder Vulcan96's in.

 

Oh yea thanks I was going to convert mine all to LED anyhow. I feel the same would rather if spares on hand as one item instead of multiple types.

I also was talking last night to a buddy and he said that if a after market radio was installed it is likely that they tapped into the dash lights would could cause a short on my running lights. And after he said that I remembered when I turned on my lights my radio would cut out and back on. So I need to look at wiring on radio and probably just going to remove it anyhow.

Moons thanks for the advice on part#'s and such. I had a hard time finding them too. I noticed my rear tail lights are a harness that plugs into rear so I was hoping to just replace as all one unit instead of splicing in new bulb holders. I will do that if I need to though

 

Look what I picked up tonight. They are dirty but will normally be black in color.

I need to figure out something to use them though. My current setup with long arms requires a side bracket which will interfere with these mounting points on the sliders.

I could always get another cross member that does not use side brackets and continue to use my long arms with these. Or fab up some other kind of setup.

 

Hey bro,
Here is a pic of what I will be sending to ya.
I will shoot you a PM for further details...