Well got them installed. Shackle angle still vertical. Called RC. Jason insists that they only have the updated leafs now, so I guess I am going to have to invest in those recessed shackle relocation brackets. I'm sure the springs will settle some, but not enough to get 45* of shackle angle. Nice to have new springs regardless because the shackle side bushings on the leafs were both shot after a year.

 

I figured I'd post post this since it may help someone else out there. I went wheeling during TS Andrea on Thursday. Lots of water and mud! Had a blast. Friday, I went to the store and noticed that voltage gauge was reading nothing. I get it home, get my meter, check voltage at battery and it's about 11v. I then start it back up, the gauge is reading about normal, so I check and it's 13.4v. I rev it at the throttle body a couple times, check again, and it's reading 11.xx at the battery again. I check the dash and the gauge is bottomed out at nada. So, I pull the alternator on Saturday, put it on the folding table, and proceed to take it apart at the back. I will let you know I have never attempted this before. Was very easy to take apart. I cleaned all the contacts on every part, flushed the parts with electrical cleaner and air, flushed the main guts with water and blew dry with my compressor. Put it all back together and re installed. Not only is it working, but it's strong as ever. Was very simple to do.

 

Oh well. Looks like I spoke to soon. Between all the sand and mud, the alternator finally died. I went to Autozone and bought the 136a upgraded alt for $129 new, not rebuilt with lifetime warranty. Only issue was that the housing is physically larger so, I had to get the grinder out and clearance both the cast bracket and the steel front bracket for everything to line up. Works great and now my lights no longer dim when running my subs.

 

Man, it's been forever and a day, but I finally got around to picking up all the hardware to finally install those flares I picked up. I went with 10-24 1-1/4" machine screws along with matching nut-serts to mount them into the sheet metal. I BARELY got the driver front in and it started pouring and has continued to pour all afternoon. Oh well. I have the whole weekend to finish, but here's how the one I did turned out. Feel sturdy as heck mounted with those nut-serts!

 

added a couple more pics.

 

Been a busy couple weeks. Finally got around to a couple big projects that I have been procrastinating on. A/C stopped working last year and I troubleshot it out to being the evap core. Wasn't looking forward to the job, but it ended up being easier than I thought. It was, however, every bit as time consuming as I thought. I replaced the heater core while I was at it, which was a good idea because I could tell it was starting to leak once out. I'm sure now after having done it that I prolly took apart a little bit more than I needed to, but didn't consume THAT much more time. I left the column totally connected and I was able to use a bungee cord to hold the dash frame out of the way when I pulled it out. I kick myself every time I do one of these projects because I have not been taking all the pics I would have liked. It's done and I'm so happy to have ice-cold air again.
The following weekend, I decided to get off my *** and install that SYE and driveshaft I had purchased with the lift back in 3/2012! I know I know. I had been hesitant to take it on by myself, but I am glad I finally did it. It was much easier than I thought and thanks to me having both a floor jack and a motorcycle jack, I was able to do it by myself fairly easily. The actual SYE install went very smooth as I watched a video on youtube from Advance Adapters detailing the process start to finish. I was pleasantly surprised to find out the drive shaft I received with the kit (but never opened) was from Tom Woods. Pretty cool because the local shop I bought my lift from orders right from Rough Country. I was expecting a reman front shaft. All I can saw is, "Wow! What a difference!" Drove it to work and was doing 80mph and it was smooth as it could be. Then it happened. Coming out of one of the toll booths on the expressway, traffic was all stupid and jockying for position. Somebody cut the guy in the F150 next to me off and he swerved and hit me. Damn! Crushed the left front fender, broke the fender flare, damaged the track bar TRE, driver side unit bearing, and somehow the rear pinion seal because it started pissing fluid and highway speed. The guy who hit me was cool about and paid for the damages. Still have to get the rest of the parts, but had to fix the pinion seal pronto. While I was at it, decided ro change the rear diff fluid, paint the cover, and trim that lower tab off the bottom of the c8.25. Came out ok me thinks.
That's pretty much it for this update. Oh and btw, I have read though so many posts about guys with the AW4 losing OD (TC lockup) and how many different things it can/could be. I was having the same problem and mine magically cleared up after doing my SYE. My conclusion was a poor connection on the speed sensor on the transfer case. Only thing I really touched. So, something to check if you're having that issue as well.

 

Nothing big to update. Just replaced the u-joint in the front drive shaft.

 

Like how this is coming along keep up the good build

 

How are u liking the Rough Country lift so far? Does your Jeep have the Np 231 TC? Sweet build man

 

Thanks guys. Yeah, it's a 231. Doing the driver front unit bearing and track bar TRE tomorrow.

 

great thread. I just picked p a 98 in the same color and have ordered the same RC lift kit, some really good info here. Thanks for taking the time to post

 

Ah, you're welcome! I like to add to it when I have the time. I just replaced the motor mounts this past weekend and it went very smooth for me. I had just helped my good friend replace the driver side mount on his YJ and it was a nightmare! Here's a quick comparison of what I pulled out. Yikes!

 

Big Brown Santa came today!

 

Well, we got the Ruff Stuff 1-ton steering fabbed up and installed Saturday. Aside from the reaming process, (it sucks) it was a pretty easy install. The Rugged Ridge kit was shot again less than a year after being replaced under warranty. Couldn't take it anymore. Had my good friend Chris help me with the welding part as my welding skills are still shaky. Plus, a Millermatic 252 makes quick work of it!
The only issue I have now that it's installed is that I cannot turn full-lock to the right as the tie rod hits the bolt for the track bar mount. I'm not sure what the heck I can do shy of buying the track bar kit as well and relocate. Any suggestions for a temp fix until I get the money to upgrade the panhard bar? Here's some pics of the install.
Had an "incident" with the reamer. We just welded a socket to it and reamed on!
Finished product, minus primer and paint.

 

Got it all primed and painted. Added poly spacers to deal with the tie rod rolling. Pretty happy with how everything turned out!