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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #1  
johnydoe's Avatar
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Default Full size on 40's

well this weekend im going to get my new axles so i figured i would make a build thread, this way hopefully all the mod pros can come in and gimme some tips and tricks along the way and the best way to mod certain things....

this is my jeep last year on 35's







basicly at this point my jeep is stock, with a 4.5 lift and 35's...

getting super dana60 and 10.25 with 35 spline inner/outter and 410 gears i believe...they come from a ford f450 2007, so i know they are tough, lol....costing me 700$ and they come with everything (leafs, springs, swaybars, new discs/calipers....ect) but i dont even know what is good for me or not and what i will need to replace...

i do know a bit about mods, ive worked in a toyota 4x4 garage doing motor swaps and stuff, but i am pretty new at working on my own truck and need advice as i go along....so consider me a newb if you will, this way you guys can unload info on me....


anyways...hope to get this project done by end of summer or before but i dont think it will be done, all depending financials, ,lol
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #2  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Year: 1987
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Ditch the suspension parts that came with the axles. The leafs, whatever. Those will ride like garbage.


What do you plan on doing? Still using coils up front? Swapping to leafs?

Going 4 link? Doing the fab and weld work yourself?
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:49 PM
  #3  
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Ditch the suspension parts that came with the axles. The leafs, whatever. Those will ride like garbage.


What do you plan on doing? Still using coils up front? Swapping to leafs?

Going 4 link? Doing the fab and weld work yourself?
fab and wed work will be done at the toyota garage i used to work at, rarely have i seen someone as perfectionist as my old boss(even though he hates jeep, lol what u expect he is a toyota guy, lol) i have never welded before and would need a learning curve not on my jeep

staying coil front and leaf rear...i was told that i would have problems making the coil mounts for the front axle for my xj because the driver side axle tube is very short and not much place for me putting one, the guy who im buying them from suggested to me that coilovers might be easier to install, but i dont know much about them other than i see them on buggys alot...


as for what i plan on doing....a lil bit of everything, lol, but mosty mud/bogs...but my goal with this project is to have the ultimate "go anywhere" jeep, built not bought....

as for my suspention i was planning to go with a bds long arm type kit(i think its 4 link, but i dont know the difference) and a 8"+ lift...
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #4  
Kawasakicoby125's Avatar
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From: Pullman/Lynnwood WA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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this build will be awesome! looking forward to the final project
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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From: Raleigh,NC
Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L HO
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I would make plans on reinforcing the unibody aswell.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #6  
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You have alot of research and learning to do...no offense.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #7  
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
You have alot of research and learning to do...no offense.

none taken, ive done alot of looking around but no actual "research"....i plan on learning as i go...hope that dont bother anyone, which is why i started this thread in hopes of ppl chipping in info along the way
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #8  
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From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L
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Its not cheap. Id set extra $ back bc there's always something else. But well worth it. i'm in the process of swap now. Getting close. Can't wait till I get it done. It's definitely a lot more work than I expected. Ruffstuff is good place for some of your brackets. hydro assist is a good idea. Make your own for about 150. Or buy a kit from east coast gear supply for like 250. Just research a lot before you buy things. Always a cheaper/more cost efficient way to do things.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #9  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
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Originally Posted by johnydoe
none taken, ive done alot of looking around but no actual "research"....i plan on learning as i go...hope that dont bother anyone, which is why i started this thread in hopes of ppl chipping in info along the way
I doubt you'll bother anyone. We all started somewhere.

I'm actually in about the same boat you are. I am trying to come up with my own 3 link.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #10  
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From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee

I doubt you'll bother anyone. We all started somewhere.

I'm actually in about the same boat you are. I am trying to come up with my own 3 link.
X2 on making your own. It will save you a ton. I luckily have a local buddy that helping me a lot. I can fix my own **** but an axle swap was above my head. Pirate 4x4 helped a lot
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #11  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Jarrett
I would make plans on reinforcing the unibody aswell.
took the words right out of my mouth especially since its a 2-door

and since he is noob to jeeps we are talking subrame stiffeners and roll cages
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #12  
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Year: 88
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There IS room for coil mounts on the front driver's side, but you'll have to find someone who has some welding skills because you will have to fab onto/around the outer cast 'tube' part of the center section. Reinforce the frame/unibody (a LOT), doubly where you are going to tie in your control arms (yes, you will have to build or buy/modify a long arm set-up).
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up

You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.

Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.

(I'm going 42's later this season)
Attached Thumbnails Full size on 40's-dsc06486.jpg  
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #13  
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Originally Posted by mcguyver_xj
took the words right out of my mouth especially since its a 2-door

and since he is noob to jeeps we are talking subrame stiffeners and roll cages
yes had planned on it but far from that point

Originally Posted by XSXJ
There IS room for coil mounts on the front driver's side, but you'll have to find someone who has some welding skills because you will have to fab onto/around the outer cast 'tube' part of the center section. Reinforce the frame/unibody (a LOT), doubly where you are going to tie in your control arms (yes, you will have to build or buy/modify a long arm set-up).
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up

You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.

Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.

(I'm going 42's later this season)

thx
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #14  
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Or you can go radius arms and buy the brackets and then weld them on.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 08:23 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by REP--
Or you can go radius arms and buy the brackets and then weld them on.
Radius arms aren't the best option, even though its the most common.
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