Full size on 40's
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
well this weekend im going to get my new axles so i figured i would make a build thread, this way hopefully all the mod pros can come in and gimme some tips and tricks along the way and the best way to mod certain things....
this is my jeep last year on 35's



basicly at this point my jeep is stock, with a 4.5 lift and 35's...
getting super dana60 and 10.25 with 35 spline inner/outter and 410 gears i believe...they come from a ford f450 2007, so i know they are tough, lol....costing me 700$ and they come with everything (leafs, springs, swaybars, new discs/calipers....ect) but i dont even know what is good for me or not and what i will need to replace...
i do know a bit about mods, ive worked in a toyota 4x4 garage doing motor swaps and stuff, but i am pretty new at working on my own truck and need advice as i go along....so consider me a newb if you will, this way you guys can unload info on me....
anyways...hope to get this project done by end of summer or before but i dont think it will be done, all depending financials, ,lol
this is my jeep last year on 35's



basicly at this point my jeep is stock, with a 4.5 lift and 35's...
getting super dana60 and 10.25 with 35 spline inner/outter and 410 gears i believe...they come from a ford f450 2007, so i know they are tough, lol....costing me 700$ and they come with everything (leafs, springs, swaybars, new discs/calipers....ect) but i dont even know what is good for me or not and what i will need to replace...
i do know a bit about mods, ive worked in a toyota 4x4 garage doing motor swaps and stuff, but i am pretty new at working on my own truck and need advice as i go along....so consider me a newb if you will, this way you guys can unload info on me....
anyways...hope to get this project done by end of summer or before but i dont think it will be done, all depending financials, ,lol
Ditch the suspension parts that came with the axles. The leafs, whatever. Those will ride like garbage.
What do you plan on doing? Still using coils up front? Swapping to leafs?
Going 4 link? Doing the fab and weld work yourself?
What do you plan on doing? Still using coils up front? Swapping to leafs?
Going 4 link? Doing the fab and weld work yourself?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
staying coil front and leaf rear...i was told that i would have problems making the coil mounts for the front axle for my xj because the driver side axle tube is very short and not much place for me putting one, the guy who im buying them from suggested to me that coilovers might be easier to install, but i dont know much about them other than i see them on buggys alot...
as for what i plan on doing....a lil bit of everything, lol, but mosty mud/bogs...but my goal with this project is to have the ultimate "go anywhere" jeep, built not bought....
as for my suspention i was planning to go with a bds long arm type kit(i think its 4 link, but i dont know the difference) and a 8"+ lift...
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
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From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
none taken, ive done alot of looking around but no actual "research"....i plan on learning as i go...hope that dont bother anyone, which is why i started this thread in hopes of ppl chipping in info along the way
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 956
Likes: 1
From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Its not cheap. Id set extra $ back bc there's always something else. But well worth it. i'm in the process of swap now. Getting close. Can't wait till I get it done. It's definitely a lot more work than I expected. Ruffstuff is good place for some of your brackets. hydro assist is a good idea. Make your own for about 150. Or buy a kit from east coast gear supply for like 250. Just research a lot before you buy things. Always a cheaper/more cost efficient way to do things.
I'm actually in about the same boat you are. I am trying to come up with my own 3 link.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 956
Likes: 1
From: New Haven, IN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
I doubt you'll bother anyone. We all started somewhere.
I'm actually in about the same boat you are. I am trying to come up with my own 3 link.
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From: West Springfield, MA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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From: Littleton
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
There IS room for coil mounts on the front driver's side, but you'll have to find someone who has some welding skills because you will have to fab onto/around the outer cast 'tube' part of the center section. Reinforce the frame/unibody (a LOT), doubly where you are going to tie in your control arms (yes, you will have to build or buy/modify a long arm set-up).
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up
You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.
Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.
(I'm going 42's later this season)
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up
You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.
Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.
(I'm going 42's later this season)
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
There IS room for coil mounts on the front driver's side, but you'll have to find someone who has some welding skills because you will have to fab onto/around the outer cast 'tube' part of the center section. Reinforce the frame/unibody (a LOT), doubly where you are going to tie in your control arms (yes, you will have to build or buy/modify a long arm set-up).
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up
You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.
Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.
(I'm going 42's later this season)
Also figure out where you want your axle to center as 40's will hit the back of the fender opening if you don't move the axle forward. (I went 3.5" forward with mine & 3.25" back with the back axle. Mine is the 10.5" rear, and that left me just enough room to clear the tank with it's skid. (there is a 'TON' of fender trimming and re-attaching to do this build)...
Start by grinding pretty much everything off the front axle and make it clean so you have a good place to start.
You'll also have to get new driveshafts built once everything is in place..
Also you'll probably have to go with hydraulic or at least hydraulic assist steering 'cause the stock steering will not handle the stress of 40's.
They will also tax the gearing, 4:10 isn't low enough unless you do an Atlas, or a Terra-low, or a dual-transfer case set-up
You are going to spend twice what you think, there's going to be twice the problems to solve - but I can tell you, I LOVE mine!!
sorry I don't have a bunch of build pictures, didn't take any that would really help.
Good Luck, pm me if you'd like, I'll answer what I can for you.
(I'm going 42's later this season)
thx


