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So I've always liked the look of the old Jeep Cherokee's and so I've been waiting patiently for the past year or so for one with a decent body.
I've been buying-fixing-selling my last few vehicles for fun in the meantime but this is going to be my first real project.
And so I show you the one that finally appeared, with, for the most part, very little rust.
A little history
All I know is that it has 220,000kms on the clock, and it has some weird transfer case linkage going on. Before I got a hold of it, a kid bought it to fix up. Supposedly he changed the transfer case as it was broken when he bought it and it had an engine swap 80,000km ago supposedly. I wonder how long she's been sat for. I drove it home and until I can clear the engine codes seal the leaks and change it's fluids, I'll be leaving it on the driveway. Got her for $1900 CAD (which is probably a little high for what I got) but these things a like gold dust around where I live.
So below is the list of things I've noticed that need fixing so far. I'm making this thread to hopefully help others as I figure out a lot of the weird and unique issues I may have on this thing.
Anything that needs it's own separate thread will have a link with it. And I'll be updating as I go.
The List so far; Key; RED - Not Started ORANGE - Currently Working On/Partially Complete GREEN - Complete
Interior Fan control Center console (Looks like gorilla glue smeared on it and has broken latches)
Ignition Cylinder falls out (looks like housing is broken)
Finish wiring custom rear speakers
Fix seat cloths
General electrical diagnosis (One or two engine connectors with nothing plugged in)
Replace Dash Warning Lights
Exterior Fender catching on door (Re-align fender? or door - door needs a hinge pin) - GONNA SOURCE NEW FENDERS AND PAINT UNLESS I FIND A DONOR AND ADJUST DOOR HINGE Remove tow bar. Fender flares re-aligning - AFTER FURTHER ANALYSIS SEEMS THE BENT FENDERS ARE THE REASON THE TRIMS ARE POPPING OFF Drivers Tail Light
Front Bumper. (Currently Dented) and remove LED bar. General body work (fix rust and dents) - Found some more serious rust under the drivers floorboard, likely due to weather stripping. - MAY TRY SOME DIY DENT REPAIR ON FENDERS BEFORE ORDERING NEW ONES. Repaint rims - THOUGHT ABOUT PAINTING MYSELF, BUT A GUY NEARBY DOES SANDBLASTING + POWDERCOAT FOR $550 FOR 4 RIMS. Drivers side headlight shroud Remove Decals New Windshield - LOOKING AT AROUND $350 FOR THIS
Mechanical Catalytic converter. - ARRIVED JUST NEEDS FITTING Possible new motor mounts (Sounds like there's noise coming from the engine bay too) - ARRIVED JUST NEEDS FITTING Transmission is throwing code P0740 - Possible TC Solenoid or TC. -ARRIVED, PREPARING TO FIX SEALS IN SPRING/SUMMER O2 Sensor codes for Upstream and Downstream. - ARRIVED JUST NEEDS FITTING Diagnose strange things happening with radiator hoses. - AFTER RESEARCH, LOOKS LIKE TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES (LEAKING A LITTLE COOLANT) General fluid changes. Change transfer case linkage (Currently has something custom that doesn't work correctly.) - ARRIVED JUST NEEDS FITTING Fix outdoor locks. Trunk Latch not working. (Managed to open with repeated effort. Seems to be a sticky latch) - LOCKS ORDERED Trunk Door Hydraulics Cranks, but wont start Broken wheel stud. Power Lock fob - I CAN EITHER PROGRAM SOME AT THE DEALER OR ORDER A PREPROGRAMMED BOARD AND FOB FROM EBAY AC Compressor - WHILST LOOKING INTO MY FUEL PUMP WOES I NOTICED MY AC FUSE HAD BROKE, WILL NEED TO SEE WHAT CAUSED THAT. POSSIBLE REGAS.
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Apr 8, 2021 at 08:36 AM.
Picked up this shroud from a guy who was parting out a police reclamation vehicle.
Originally in silver, I sanded it down mainly using a dremel, alternating between the steel wool attachments and a small conical tool for the screw holes. I then sanded it with 600 grit and gave it a couple coats of primer. Doesn't look too bad from a distance lol. Just needs a few black coats and it should be ready for the jeep. I wasn't sure if it would look better with trim restorer or paint. So I'll try paint for now seeing as it was painted silver before.
Worst comes to worse, I may repaint the one on my jeep.
Gonna have to do the same thing with the header panel that I also got in silver.
Update: Around 4-5 coats. 2-3 light 2 medium All my painting supplies
Finished off the shroud. Looks pretty good for my first strip and repaint. May blast the screw holes as it seems I missed a little primer, but it'll likely be unnoticeable.
Just need to stick her on!
Looks like it came from factory! Doing this small piece has really boosted my confidence for the rest of the body work I have planned.
Looks like I'm missing lots of screws on this thing... I had to pilfer one from my lock cylinder project... Which was already missing 2 out of 3 screws lol.
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Jan 6, 2021 at 10:29 PM.
All the Pieces Tumblers not lining up Cylinder cap
Dipped my toes into locksmithing the last few days!
Locks aren't as complicated as I thought. The tumblers go flush with the cylinder in order to allow it to rotate. Looks like the ignition was likely changed at some point and the door locks weren't updated with it.
Ordered a tumbler kit from ebay. Will update if they work.
Main thing I'm tracking down is a cap as they are discontinued. Hopefully I can find a compatible one.
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Jan 4, 2021 at 05:29 AM.
So this is a silver cowl cover that I bought off some guy. Unfortunately it seems it does have a small crack or chip here and there but will hopefully be unnoticeable after a prime and paint.
Now for this paint job I thought I'd try and experiment. To save me some time on prep work, I thought I'd try a quick scuff, then prime and paint.
Cowl cover after removing plastic grill 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper After a quick scuff
So I used dish soap and hot water to clean and then soak my sandpaper in. Could have done better but this is an experiment so I don't want to waste too much time if it'll look bad anyways. The white film is remnants of the clear coat I imagine.
Before painting primer I'm going to give it a good clean and degrease.
Soldering tools Solder job
So when I first got my 98 XJ, I noticed that I ONLY had heat, and my temperature dial seemed to do nothing. After disassembling my heater controls I found the temperature control (or blend door) cable was bent and disconnected.
I first tried bending it back straight but it snapped.
After doing excessive research I found the temp control cable on ebay for around $80 after shipping WTF.
So before ordering that, I thought I'd try fixing it first.
As shown above all you need is some flux (to allow solder to flow) a soldering iron and obviously solder.
I would also HIGHLY recommend some clamps to hold the cables for you. I fumbled around trying to get these together and it probably took me 30 mins longer than it should have.
My solder job isnt pretty but hopefully it should work.
I'll update if it breaks again.
UPDATE: So before I even tried to reinstall this cable, it turns out that the tubing is very tight around the wire. So much so that my solder was stopping the cable from moving freely and getting stuck at my solder joints. Only way around this that I can think of is removing the end pieces, buying a new cable and soldering JUST the end pieces on. Will update when I have time. I may just bite the bullet and buy a new one.
UPDATE 2: I Bought one from ebay to save me faffing around, Part number : CHRYSLER TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLE 5003393AB. Will update when it arrives.
UPDATE 3: New cable fit great. Make sure you remember how everything came off, some real awkward clips that I forgot about. Now my blend door actuates as it should. Once my jeep is running again, I should be able to turn my heat off lol.
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Mar 8, 2021 at 08:32 PM.
So today I decided to let the jeep run for a while as it's been a couple of weeks since I last started it. Turned the key, engine turned over and the jeep started! After around 4 seconds it died. I turned the key again, but it would only crank.
After a fair amount of research many people report this symptom as a Crankshaft Position Sensor issue.
I tracked down checking this sensor in my haynes manual, and it said to check continuity between pin B and C. And there should be unlimited resistance. I measured mine and I got a continuity reading of 800. Which indicates to me a bad Crankshaft position sensor.
For those of you reading who also have this issue, I found through limited information that people suggest staying away from after market parts and only buying OEM (Mopar). I had also read people have had success with Standard Motor Product P308 and also NTK. I've ordered the former and will see how it goes.
I also read my engine codes again for the heck of it, (whilst I'm speaking of engine codes, I think someone removed the light indicator as it's never come on) and low and behold I have a new code.
CODE P1391
Loss of Cam or Crank Signals.
After some research of this code, it can also be caused by a number of things. Having already diagnosed the issue, I'm going to replace the sensor and go from there.
I'll update when it arrives.
UPDATE 1
Changing this sensor was a major pain in the ***.
You will need an 11mm socket with a swivel and a 20" extension.
Unfortunately it's very difficult to photo anything on the trans. So I'll attempt to describe the process.
This particular sensor is located on the drivers side of the trans. You can actually see it if you look behind the engine. You can trace the connector you'll need to disconnect from there.
Other than that have fun! Try your best not to drop the bolts holding the sensor into your transmission or you're gonna have to drop the trans to get that out.
After spending about an hour of trying to install the new sensor, make sure you're in the correct bolt hole... There are 2 very close to each other.
Unfortunately, replacing the sensor didn't solve this issue. Since it's been sat for around a month, my battery is very flat (lower than 50% charge) regardless that its still cranking.
I'm going to recharge it to 100%, try starting again and then start diagnosing Spark and Fuel issues. Working on Power Scooters and Wheelchairs has always taught me to start at the battery and work your way out from there, saves you from simple electrical issues.
UPDATE 2
So after charging my battery to 90% I tried starting her up, she started! And then died within about 2 seconds and wouldn't start again. I'm going to buy a mopar sensor and try once more. The consensus online is oem is best for the cps.
UPDATE 3
For the heck of it, I thought I'd check my engine codes again, and something interesting happened. The old P1391 code was gone, and was replaced with P0320 "Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit". This almost confirms that the aftermarket sensor was the issue in my opinion.
tldr; Turns out my fuel rail had zero pressure after testing, my ecm seems to be confused due to a potentially faulty fuel pump. Will update when it's in.
UPDATE 5:
She started! So before I started dropping the tank, I had planned to use a transmission jack as it was reading half full on the fuel gauge. When I went to drop it, it was empty!
So it turns out my fuel sending unit must have gone bad, having only driven it home and then it never started again but read half full on gas.
Well now she's running but the rpms are all over the place, I imagine this is related to having no O2 sensors.
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Mar 13, 2021 at 08:15 PM.
Was going to say, if not the CPS then potentially the IAC valve if it will start with some throttle. But with that code and the resistance checks it seems you are likely right in your diagnosis. Have you tried fibre-glassing the cracks in the plastic trim pieces? or potentially some flexible plastic filler? The body shop at my place often use both these methods to repair small cracks in trims. Might be worth a shot.
Fixing my door locks and re-keying my door lock cylinders
So a quick back story.
When I bought this jeep, the power locks would work from the inside but you could not lock it with a key from the outside. (I didn't get a key fob, but I imagine that would have worked and I'll eventually order one for this jeep)
So in the meantime, I thought I'd at least fix the manual locks instead. After research, it seems both doors and the rear hatch work on the same lock mechanism. The ignition is different.
I won't be covering the hatch or ignition for now, as I need to replace the hydraulics first before even attempting the hatch, else I'll get pretty fed up of dropping the hatch on my head every 2 seconds. And my ignition works with this key so that won't need to be changed.
I currently have a few parts stored inside the jeep that won't be used until it gets a little warmer so some piece of mind will go a long way knowing that it'll be a little harder than just checking my doors are locked.
Interestingly enough, they've sat in there for 3 months without being stolen so far, so my neighborhood isn't as bad as I thought!
Without further ado, here's my guide on fixing your manual locks! Take out all trim screws. My door only had 2 lol. Pop out door trim using a pry tool. Then lift the whole trim up to unseat it from the window. Disconnect cables. To disconnect lock bars, first unclip yellow piece, then pull down. To remove bar. Same thing with black clip. Now you have space to work! Remove the corner of plastic sheet to get at door lock. Remove this retaining clip from behind the lock to free it. As shown above, you should now be able to remove the lock from the door. Removed lock. First remove the little "C" clip to allow access to the rest of the lock. Remove cap however you see fit. I used pliers, clearly not reusable. So make sure you have replacements when you put back together Remove this spring, take note of how it goes on! With everything removed so far, you should be able to slide the lock cylinder out. As you can see in the above picture, there are a total of 7 tumblers each with it's own code. Example of a code "4" tumbler. After removing all of my tumblers you can see one side of each slot has a small "o" indentation. Thats where your springs will go. Be careful with them, they will easily deform! To remove a tumbler, angle the tumbler toward the spring slightly and it should come out. You may need some trial and error to figure this out. If you are re-coding your locks, when you insert your key, every tumbler should be flush, hence allowing your lock to turn inside the cylinder casing. My Tumbler kit. These tumblers are referred to as "Chrysler 8 cut tumblers for doors and trunk" 4 different coded tumblers from 1-4. I would recommend writing down your key code once you figure it out if you have multiple locks to do. Next re-assemble in reverse order. Attach new lock cap. Mine were quite low quality and the paint chipped off when folding the tabs. Don't forget the gasket! I ended up removing the cracked paint by scraping it off. I'll buff or possibly paint these myself at a later date when I get around to fixing up my body paint. Re-assemble and now I can lock my doors!
Last edited by GanderThePanda; Jan 31, 2021 at 07:40 PM.
The Journey to Daily Driver
