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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 10:37 PM
  #16  
GanderThePanda's Avatar
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Fixing my Wheel Stud

Unfortunately it was too dark to take pictures this evening but this was a pretty easy process. I will describe by text.

Step 1
Remove Wheel (remove 5, or in my case, 4 lug nuts. 3/4 inch socket)

Step 2
Remove Brake Caliper (Remove the two 13mm? bolts from behind said caliper and slide it off. Make sure not to stress the brake line leading to the caliper.)

Step 3
Remove rotor. (Should slide right off)

Step 4
At this point you should be able to see there's lots of clearance for your stud to exit. Remove said stud. (A few swift precise hits with a hammer will pop it out.)

Step 5
Place New Stud, and pull it through. (I would recommend a collar for fitting studs to prevent damaging your lug nut and new stud. Tighten until the stud is flush with the back of where the rotor mounts on)

Step 6
Re-assemble in reverse order.

Step 7
Order a new lug nut. (In my case, I'm planning to paint my rims black, and I'm going to get a new set of matching lugs.)

Hope this helps others!
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 04:25 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1998
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Updated post 12 crank no start
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 08:18 PM
  #18  
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From: Current XJ is
Year: 95
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Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by GanderThePanda
So a quick back story.
When I bought this jeep, the power locks would work from the inside but you could not lock it with a key from the outside. (I didn't get a key fob, but I imagine that would have worked and I'll eventually order one for this jeep)
So in the meantime, I thought I'd at least fix the manual locks instead. After research, it seems both doors and the rear hatch work on the same lock mechanism. The ignition is different.
I won't be covering the hatch or ignition for now, as I need to replace the hydraulics first before even attempting the hatch, else I'll get pretty fed up of dropping the hatch on my head every 2 seconds. And my ignition works with this key so that won't need to be changed.
I currently have a few parts stored inside the jeep that won't be used until it gets a little warmer so some piece of mind will go a long way knowing that it'll be a little harder than just checking my doors are locked.
Interestingly enough, they've sat in there for 3 months without being stolen so far, so my neighborhood isn't as bad as I thought!
Without further ado, here's my guide on fixing your manual locks!

Take out all trim screws. My door only had 2 lol.

Pop out door trim using a pry tool. Then lift the whole trim up to unseat it from the window.

Disconnect cables.

To disconnect lock bars, first unclip yellow piece, then pull down. To remove bar.

Same thing with black clip.

Now you have space to work! Remove the corner of plastic sheet to get at door lock.

Remove this retaining clip from behind the lock to free it.

As shown above, you should now be able to remove the lock from the door.

Removed lock.

First remove the little "C" clip to allow access to the rest of the lock.

Remove cap however you see fit. I used pliers, clearly not reusable. So make sure you have replacements when you put back together

Remove this spring, take note of how it goes on!

With everything removed so far, you should be able to slide the lock cylinder out.

As you can see in the above picture, there are a total of 7 tumblers each with it's own code.

Example of a code "4" tumbler.

After removing all of my tumblers you can see one side of each slot has a small "o" indentation. Thats where your springs will go. Be careful with them, they will easily deform! To remove a tumbler, angle the tumbler toward the spring slightly and it should come out. You may need some trial and error to figure this out.

If you are re-coding your locks, when you insert your key, every tumbler should be flush, hence allowing your lock to turn inside the cylinder casing.

My Tumbler kit. These tumblers are referred to as "Chrysler 8 cut tumblers for doors and trunk"

4 different coded tumblers from 1-4. I would recommend writing down your key code once you figure it out if you have multiple locks to do.

Next re-assemble in reverse order.


Attach new lock cap. Mine were quite low quality and the paint chipped off when folding the tabs. Don't forget the gasket!


I ended up removing the cracked paint by scraping it off. I'll buff or possibly paint these myself at a later date when I get around to fixing up my body paint.

Re-assemble and now I can lock my doors!
Cheers for that.👍
Hey, let me ask ya where'd you get that tumbler kit an those nifty lock caps from ?
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 09:13 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ijeeep
Cheers for that.👍
Hey, let me ask ya where'd you get that tumbler kit an those nifty lock caps from ?
https://www.4wheelparts.ca//p/crown-...R-BKMN-4864651
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143238484463
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Old Feb 21, 2021 | 04:01 AM
  #20  
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Praying for you! A no start Jeep is a real pain in the ***
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Old Feb 21, 2021 | 07:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Griffyorcono
Praying for you! A no start Jeep is a real pain in the ***
Thanks buddy!
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Old Mar 8, 2021 | 08:36 PM
  #22  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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UPDATES

Post 11 Fixing my blend door cable.
Post 12 Crank no start
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 08:15 PM
  #23  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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UPDATE
​​​​​​
Post 12 Crank no start.
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