BT's 1998 Build Thread
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finished the bumper up this week. Finally . . .
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Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Still have it. I removed the tire carrier but still using the same bumper. I bought a new DIY bumper kit (exactly same bumper minus the tire carrier) just haven't welded it together yet. I'll sell my old tire carrier/bumper once I have the new bumper built. You should buy it. :-)
Last edited by Brent T; Nov 22, 2023 at 03:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So I said I'd try to take more pics when I did the other rear fender flare. Here's a couple showing where I had to weld on an extension to the armor to cover the front part of the rear fenderwell.




Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Still have it. I removed the tire carrier but still using the same bumper. I bought a new DIY bumper kit (exactly same bumper minus the tire carrier) just haven't welded it together yet. I'll sell my old tire carrier/bumper once I have the new bumper built. You should buy it. :-)
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So, here's a better explanation of the issue with the rear flares. They are cut straight, but the body angles in at the bottom, so they don't fit properly. My solution was to cut a small triangular piece to fill the gap.


Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Great idea. Did you have to do that to the front as well?
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 192
Likes: 17
From: AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Started the new DirtBound Offroad DIY rear bumper build a few days ago. Making some mods to a couple things. Recovery points will be through the bumper and tied into the subframe instead of just welded onto the face of the bumper. Also had to clearance the outer "wings" to clear my longer leaf springs and boomerang shackles. Should have this finished up soon.






Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Started the new DirtBound Offroad DIY rear bumper build a few days ago. Making some mods to a couple things. Recovery points will be through the bumper and tied into the subframe instead of just welded onto the face of the bumper. Also had to clearance the outer "wings" to clear my longer leaf springs and boomerang shackles. Should have this finished up soon.






CF Veteran




Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,144
Likes: 361
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Really great build. I appreciate the rate at which the build has progressed. It is similar to the rate that I work on stuff lol. Poke away at it while time allows. If I rush or push myself I get burnt out and then its not fun anymore.
I really like the cage and the condition of the interior. Rig looks like its in great shape overall.
You still running the Johnny joints in your axle-side uppers? How's that been for you? I also run TnT radius arms and have always been wary about moving away from soft rubber bushings because of the inherent binding of radius arms. I currently have my suspension apart and was eyeballing what it would take make a 3 link using the TnT radius arms and welding a new mount onto the crossmember for the upper. Looks like it would be pretty easy.
I really like the cage and the condition of the interior. Rig looks like its in great shape overall.
You still running the Johnny joints in your axle-side uppers? How's that been for you? I also run TnT radius arms and have always been wary about moving away from soft rubber bushings because of the inherent binding of radius arms. I currently have my suspension apart and was eyeballing what it would take make a 3 link using the TnT radius arms and welding a new mount onto the crossmember for the upper. Looks like it would be pretty easy.
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