When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Front shaft on rear is common practice. Should be 31" -33" for both front and rear, measured from center of u-joint caps.
Aussie lockers are now $100 cheaper and branded Lokka here in the U.S.
The front locker should be done when gears are installed because the front carrier has to come out (ideally, or have to grind down a ring tooth to get center pin out).
Rear locker is drop in.
Count on lift being taller than advertised.
I did not need or want BPE. They can reduce shock travel for my application.
Well now that someone said she looks clean lemme show ya her bad side. I completely missed this black tape over the rear roof corners. No more jeep there at all. Horrible cancer. Any clues how that could happen? PO had a roof rack on before, on the original rails. Too much weight perhaps?
I've always noticed the screws on the kick panel (I think thats what its called) were super rusted and I've seen bad news under them on other folks rigs ...but shes clean underneath
Last edited by gunmetal_nightrider; Mar 21, 2015 at 03:07 PM.
No dont know anyone that I can link up with immediately or close enough. Its been there since I bought the jeep. Im pissed I never noticed it but I love the rig too much to call it quits for that reason alone. Yeah its definitely going to have to be welded. The other scary notion is...with a hole like that...where has the water gone that gets in? Where is the OTHER rust I DONT see...
This is going to seem like ridiculous advice, but you should fill the hole with expansion foam. Let it expand, cut it flush and then tape over it. U would be surprised at the waterproofing ability of that ****. Then, when you have a few hours take the plastic trim in your trunk off and inspect the areas behind it. That's where you'll probably find the other rust. There's also a plug in the body behind the rear tire you might want to pull.
Not a bad filler idea. This guy had the same problem....but not as bad. All his black stuff is where the hole is.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/fixed-my-rust-my-roof-54895/
I might check the trunk out next chance I get then....see if the lift is worth it. I know the rear hatch has surface rust on that top lip where it meets the roof too. Stupid rust. The underbody is spotless though
I might do that if someone in Virginia/Hampton Roads knows how to weld the piece in. I can sand and do bondo or what have you...welding ive never done.
Would expansion foam even work with holes this large? The other side is even worse.
buy two cans of the big gap filler stuff and spray away. After an hour or two go back and use something sharp to trim off and shape the excess. It would be a great base if you went the fiberglass route. Otherwise it's really just a temp solution.
Does the fiberglass work? Obviously welding is the best thing. But is fiberglass a permanent solution? I've read that the vibrations eventually break the bonds of anything we try to fix it with besides metal
Wow, and to think I was just about to post how clean this xj was....lol
I personally don't like the expanding foam idea as I feel it would only cause more damage by trapping moisture. Fiberglass it (cheap fix) for now until you can get it properly repaired.
Wow, and to think I was just about to post how clean this xj was....lol
I personally don't like the expanding foam idea as I feel it would only cause more damage by trapping moisture. Fiberglass it (cheap fix) for now until you can get it properly repaired.
Right? Lol some girls have bad sides. Its my fault didnt do a good job when buying it. Anyway, i was gonna fiberglass or bondo over the foam. The foam is just to give some structure and then i would paint everything anyway....but once again, i like to try and do things the right way...unless im buying my first jeep lol
