1976 Jeep Cherokee Chop Top Project
#16
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#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
The Cherokee does look odd, but, the first time I saw an XJ chopped I kinda thought the samething.
I like it though, Keep posting I think this build/rebuild would be really great. Looking forward to see your progress, remember post a ton of pictures. I'd love to get into an old Cherokee, they just look soooo kool!
Good luck!
I like it though, Keep posting I think this build/rebuild would be really great. Looking forward to see your progress, remember post a ton of pictures. I'd love to get into an old Cherokee, they just look soooo kool!
Good luck!
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
#19
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i think the jeep looks great! ive never seen one of those chopped. i dont know what everyone else is talking about but i like how it looks. in the pics it doesnt look bad all bedlined but i hope you can get it off to paint it a different color. maybe like an army green or something
#21
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Thanks guys! Right now I'm working on getting the garage in shape so I can get started on the motor. Question for you: Jeep sat for 6+ months, motor seized according to previous owner. What causes motors to seize from inactivity?
#23
CF Veteran
yeah, i guess you're right. at least i can't blame you for chopping up a killer jeep.
as for the motor, try squirting a little bit of clean motor oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit over night, then use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and try to turn it by hand.
the only thing that really happens from sitting is the rings/cylinder walls get a little sticky due to a tiny bit of rust forming on the dry rings.
this should do it.
i've heard of others using a bit of penetrating fluid in there, but i haven't tried that myself.
did any water get into the block somehow, maybe through the hood scoop?
as for the motor, try squirting a little bit of clean motor oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit over night, then use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and try to turn it by hand.
the only thing that really happens from sitting is the rings/cylinder walls get a little sticky due to a tiny bit of rust forming on the dry rings.
this should do it.
i've heard of others using a bit of penetrating fluid in there, but i haven't tried that myself.
did any water get into the block somehow, maybe through the hood scoop?
#24
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
yeah, i guess you're right. at least i can't blame you for chopping up a killer jeep.
as for the motor, try squirting a little bit of clean motor oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit over night, then use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and try to turn it by hand.
the only thing that really happens from sitting is the rings/cylinder walls get a little sticky due to a tiny bit of rust forming on the dry rings.
this should do it.
i've heard of others using a bit of penetrating fluid in there, but i haven't tried that myself.
did any water get into the block somehow, maybe through the hood scoop?
as for the motor, try squirting a little bit of clean motor oil down the spark plug holes and let it sit over night, then use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley and try to turn it by hand.
the only thing that really happens from sitting is the rings/cylinder walls get a little sticky due to a tiny bit of rust forming on the dry rings.
this should do it.
i've heard of others using a bit of penetrating fluid in there, but i haven't tried that myself.
did any water get into the block somehow, maybe through the hood scoop?
#25
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Placed an order with AAP, picking up 128 oz of sea foam, a can of deep creep, a set of plugs, new coolant, and new air filter. Today will be spent trying to get that thing to move!
#26
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Normally, I wouldn't be a fan of chopping an old beast like that either, but from what I can tell in the pics, it looks like it was done pretty well.
I wouldn't worry about bumping your rear up further on the springs until you figure out that goofy fender situation Why move it, anyways? Got any pics of the undercarriage yet?
#27
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Good luck! I've heard spraying some PB Blaster in the cylinders and leaving it sit like that overnight does wonders as well, in case the oil suggestion doesn't work out.
Normally, I wouldn't be a fan of chopping an old beast like that either, but from what I can tell in the pics, it looks like it was done pretty well.
I wouldn't worry about bumping your rear up further on the springs until you figure out that goofy fender situation Why move it, anyways? Got any pics of the undercarriage yet?
Normally, I wouldn't be a fan of chopping an old beast like that either, but from what I can tell in the pics, it looks like it was done pretty well.
I wouldn't worry about bumping your rear up further on the springs until you figure out that goofy fender situation Why move it, anyways? Got any pics of the undercarriage yet?
The seafoam deep creep should do the job of PB blaster, I've sprayed some of that in the cylinders. Drained the oil, luckily no water came out -- none. Ran some seafoam through to further clean it out. Will be filling it back up with Rotella/seafoam and trying to inch the crankshaft around. Maybe I will get lucky and the previous owner assumed the engine was seized when it's just sticky! We will see.
I see what you mean about the fenders now. Gonna go take a peek. No pics of the undercarriage yet, I will snap a few. There are a few rusty spots but pretty solid. T-case leaks a lot.
#28
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That was the main thing I looked at when I went to see it. The welds seem fine and the stock hatch was retained. It was done well, it just needs finishing details. Something like diamond plate along the top of the bed should do the trick.
The seafoam deep creep should do the job of PB blaster, I've sprayed some of that in the cylinders. Drained the oil, luckily no water came out -- none. Ran some seafoam through to further clean it out. Will be filling it back up with Rotella/seafoam and trying to inch the crankshaft around. Maybe I will get lucky and the previous owner assumed the engine was seized when it's just sticky! We will see.
I see what you mean about the fenders now. Gonna go take a peek. No pics of the undercarriage yet, I will snap a few. There are a few rusty spots but pretty solid. T-case leaks a lot.
The seafoam deep creep should do the job of PB blaster, I've sprayed some of that in the cylinders. Drained the oil, luckily no water came out -- none. Ran some seafoam through to further clean it out. Will be filling it back up with Rotella/seafoam and trying to inch the crankshaft around. Maybe I will get lucky and the previous owner assumed the engine was seized when it's just sticky! We will see.
I see what you mean about the fenders now. Gonna go take a peek. No pics of the undercarriage yet, I will snap a few. There are a few rusty spots but pretty solid. T-case leaks a lot.
#30
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I got the oil changed and the cylinders full of penetrating oil. All of the belts came off, the crank bolt won't budge though. I can see the whole engine move when I put some torque on it. Not gonna risk snapping it, so I've ordered a crank turner from NAPA which should arrive in a few hours. If I can't get it to budge I will let the penetrating oil soak overnight and give it another go tomorrow. It would be very cool if it was just stuck!