New/stock ?Melling pump is fine. No need for high volume or high pressure pumps, they have seemed to cause some problems for others.

I have YT and HS. IDK 50,000? Both work well. No problems. With your cam only need 1.6 and not 1.7 ratio.

You will need to use a good break-in oil like Brad Penn with high ?ZZPP content and a NAPA filter(?the Best). Search and use a good break in schedule. After 1,000 miles or so I would use Rotella T6 synthetic.

 

Well the yella terra rockers are steel and the harland sharp are aluminum so their supposed to wear out faster. I just went with stock rockers though for reliability and cost. If I wanted to get roller rockers I would definatly get the Yella Terras. I just used a stock oil pump. I didn't like the idea of having to massage the pan to fit in a high volume and I've also heard of issues with the high volume. As far as oil/filter wise i'm using an undersized filter from napa the 15151 I think. You remove the filter adapter and it threads right in. No motor mount clearance issues. I broke it in on Brad Penn break-in oil and use Valvoline VR1 because it has a high Zinc content.

 

Yella Terra rockers are also aluminum not steel. HS are rebuildable.

 

Then do they make a steel/better rocker arm? Happy that I don't need to buy an upgraded oil pump. Might sound dumb but because the engines bigger will it need more energy(batter) to run great. My stock alternator is newish(few months). Or will it not make a difference.

 

No those are the best two brands for roller rockers. Their still much stronger than the stock steel ones. But no stroking it won't do anything to how much power it takes to run it.

 

If I chose not to go with roller rockers what would you suggest in lifters and rocker arms

 

Stock, but you have a fairly high lift cam and you will also need new custom length pushrods, preferably also stronger. More lift will stress the stock rocker arms that much more.

 

I do have new custom length pushrods made with the cam.

 

Definitely go with the stock replacement oil pump. Do you have an idea of what your static CR is going to be? Also, have you already purchased your cam? I would suggest running a cam like the Comp 68-231-4. I think it looks much better on paper, but if you've already purchased that cam it should work just fine. What head are you going to be running on this? Also which head gasket?

 

Can you tell me the definition of static CR? I have already purchased the cam and the statistics of the cam are posted. As soon as I get home I'll post the statistics of my cylinder head. What head gasket type do you suggest? Thanks Torque you put things in my head that I didn't even think of.

 

Static compression ratio (cr) is just your calculated compression based on bore, stroke, rod length, etc. THIS is a decent calculator to use. Just plug in your numbers and it should give you a pretty good idea. I like to build my engine on paper before I actually purchase any parts for it, but it sounds like you are off to a good start.

Head gasket thickness will probably depend on what quech height you are shooting for. I'm building a 4.2L mini-stroker that has 0.000" deck clearance, so my quench height is going to be my compressed head gasket thickness, right around 0.043" if I remember correctly.

 

Not a bad cam choice, but our engines really benefit from a dual pattern cam that has more emphasis on the exhaust side. Porting the head on the exhaust side will probably help you the most with the cam you chose. The lobe sep of 114 should make it a pretty good daily driver tho.. and it would probably respond well to boost if you ever get to that point!

 

Head is an upgraded 0630 ported

Valve lift (in)... 0.1 ... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow.... 68.4 132.6 185.4 213.4 216.5 216.5
Exhaust flow. 64.3 116.9 149.6 158.9 164.8 165.0

 

I'm just tossed up on what rocker arms / roller rocker kit I want to go with!

 

Torque062. I have to teach myself what to measure to use this calibration program. Definitely enjoying this learning experience