Anything else from you cobra?

 

As far as oil/filter wise i'm using an undersized filter from napa the 15151 I think. You remove the filter adapter and it threads right in. No motor mount clearance issues. I broke it in on Brad Penn break-in oil and use Valvoline VR1 because it has a high Zinc content.
Hayden said this^

Why the undersized filter? Could you also explain why a high zinc content is preferable?

 

The new oils formulated for newer cars with OHC and roller lifters is different than it was in the past. They took out most of the zinc. The zinc is like a 'cushion' for the cam and flat tappet lifters. Low zinc oils tend to cause increased wear and failure of these parts. Especially on break-in.

Keep the oil filter adapter and screw the filter on to it. Read both of these, good info.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rot...essing-188168/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/na...filter-194750/

Your head- What valves and springs did you use? what was the stock head flow vs the now ported? Improvement?

 

Because it's one of the only ones that work without the adapter and i didn't want to have to worry about replacing the o-rings in the adapter. Call me lazy but I think it makes it easier to swap filters anyway.

 

Well I think you probably already have most of the information. The only thing you might need to figure out is the volume of the dished pistons that you are using and that should give you a pretty good idea

 

Done volume? -20.000cc

 

With your piston choice you will want your machinist to 'deck' the block about 0.025" to get to 0.000" deck height so that with a 0.041" head gasket you will have a 0.041" QUENCH with is better for detonation control and complete combustion. This will require new push rod lengths.

 

Done!!

 

X2, great advice.

 

Everything on stand by. Till next week

 

So pick everything tomorrow morning. All the labor on block and crank came to 361.54 after tax. Assembly will begin shortly after 0830.

 

Is it really necessary to build a booth to boy old your engine inside of so it is clean.?

 

I don't really understand the question. Do you mean to boil the engine in to clean out the inside? If so I just had my guy at the machine shop hot tank it for me which is basically what your saying. Cleans out all the old rust and stuff inside. He didn't charge much at all to do it so i would recommend having the shop guy do it.

 

Oh man I'm sorry guys. Auto correct. I did have the hot tank process completed on both head and block with new core plugs. My question is how significant is making "booth" as in like plastic bags used to make a small "room" to step into in order to build your engine in a clean environment. Or, will simply having a clean garage with clean tables to work on suffice.

 

This isn't rocket surgery.